Matty T

As I posted in this thread, does anyone have a complete set of Stagea calipers that they want to get rid of? I am looking for the 2 piston fronts and the rears that take the DB1144 pads (though will consider others). I am in Canberra, if that makes a difference. Cheers, Matt

So, does anyone have a complete set of Stagea calipers that they want to get rid of? I am looking for the 2 piston fronts and the rears that take the DB1144 pads (though will consider others). I am in Canberra, if that makes a difference. Cheers, Matt

PMs sent, gents.

Yup, I am running one on my DR30. Great bit of kit. I have had mine for 18 months now. Cost? $500 fitted (TPS and MAT sensor cost extra). Tuning is straightforward, as with any other programmable ECU. Yes, with a wideband O2 sensor it will autotune, and extrapolate the load points that are difficult to reach / sustain. Funny that it was brought up. That Canberra R30 is about 30 seconds away from my house, and exactly half way between me and the builder/tuner of my Megasquirt! I didn't realise that there were interested parties in it. I had heard that it had a turbo, but I wasn't prepared to offer him any more than $500 for it. He could keep the engine/transmission. I am really only interested in the wheels, and perhaps the front guards and front bumper.

Don't be sorry. It's all good.

Have a look at the last photo - see the blue pipe in the headlight? Part of the "Production Rally Car" regulations is that we are not allowed to cut or modify the radiator support panel in any way. Thus, I could only make use of original holes in the radiator support panel to plumb the 'cooler. Voila! The piping comes straight through the high beam part of the light and through the original headlight access. The car remains road-legal as it still has functioning high and low beams (albeit the crappy outside ones). Loss of a light doesn't really concern me as for night stages, I have a detachable light bar with 4 Cibie driving lights that hang off the front.

Here's a few pics of my intercooler install. This is a bog-stock normally aspirated FJ20 with the factory T3 hung off it and 10 psi of boost. Intercooler is a bit of overkill, but being for a rally car, I am only able to use the factory micro-cooler, or the "Group A" unit. Supersize me!

I put a KAAZ LSD into my R200 Longnose. It is a real cranky bugger when it is cold! No difference between it and the locker it replaced (except when the clutch pedal is down, of course). Disco, here's some details on the Quaife ATB for your R200.

No need for a chassis jig. Just need a mig welder, some practice sheets of (thin) sheet metal, some patience to get the mig's settings right, and Bob's your Aunties live-in lover! For the pieces of reinforcing sheet, make a template out of cardboard and take it to your local metal supply shop. They should be able to cut it up for you pretty cheaply. Either that, or do what I do - buy yourself a SuperCrap electric jigsaw, some metal cutting blades for it, and cut them out yourself. If you have the car stripped, you can always take it to someone who builds rally cars and get them to stitch it for you. I would expect the bill to be anywhere from $500 - $1000, depending on what you wanted done, and how bare the car is.

Hey, if you have already got the car stripped down and you have the time / want, then go for it. Places to concentrate on are: front strut towers, rear strut towers, the seams across the floor where the floorpan sheets meet (where the front of the rear seat is), and the front chassis rails (particularly where they meet the firewall). If you wanted to do some reinforcing, then I would throw some 2mm steel plate around the chassis rail->firewall meet point, and run some from the "A" pillar to the front strut towers (on the outside, under the front guards). If you haven't had enough fun yet, then I'd suggest stitching the gearbox crossmember and rear diff mounts, as well as the rear crossmember mount box section. That would make for a seriously nice, stiff and strong shell.

The R30 chassis is actually not bad. For your sort of work, I'd suggest a set of front and rear strut braces - that's about it (the rear brace is optional, in fact). Seriously, I think it would be alot of time and effort for little reward. Springs, dampers, swaybars, and camber / toe changes will gain you far more than any chassis stiffening will - at least at the level you are talking about. My DR30 is a rally car, and the chassis cops quite a large amount of punishment. The car has a full roll cage (which helps in the stiffening department), but otherwise, the car is not seam welded at all. I am waiting to see where it starts to split. To this point though (8 rallies), everything seems pretty sound. I am quite impressed!

I just put mine up in the "For Sale" section... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=126833

For sale: longnose R200 3.9:1 LSD (10mm). No halfshafts. Item Condition: Good. I haven't measured the preload on it, but would be surprised if it was much less than the factory 45 lb/ft. Car had 120,000 kms on it. Diff makes no noises. Price: $1000 I am selling it because the ratio I am moving to uses the 12mm crownwheel bolts, and I can't bear the thought of drilling out the holes in the (rare) 10mm centre. I may as well sell the diff complete. Contact Details: PM me, or e-mail matt at bmsc dot com dot au Location: Canberra Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pickup preferred, but will ship at the buyer's expense. R200's are weighty buggers, so roughly calculate the shipping on a 26 kg item. Pics:

That was on ebay, wasn't it? I saw it too... I have a R200 3.9 LSD that I might part with for the right price. Sorry, the shafts don't go with it, unless the price is very right!

No need to explain yourself. Sorry to hear about your parents.

Hey Ghostrider, it wouldn't have anything to do with this, now would it? http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7890

Here's a white one I prepared earlier...

Sounds like a close cousin of my old 1981 Skyline, which was MGC210100441

I am in need of the engine stabiliser bracket that bolts onto the turbo exhaust manifold. If anyone has one spare, please contact me. Cheers, Matt

Sorry - never saw this reply until today! Yes, they made a huge difference to the rear end. It doesn't squirm anywhere near as much as it used to. In addition, if you have ever been in a car with a locked diff (as mine has), you would know that the rear end bangs and thumps around corners with the twist loads placed upon it. With this modification, there is no more bangs and thumps, just the gentle sound of tyres being scrubbed...

Guess what? He's done it again! With only hours left in the auction, and the price stuck at $2550, he's pulled it due to "an error in the minimum bid or reserve amount". But it gets better, people... It has now been relisted with a starting bid of $0.01 and a "Buy It Now" price of $12,000! Just a little, yeah. I am starting to question that...

Tie rod ends are available from Rare Spares...

Somehow I knew you were going to say that. What a bugger of a job. Thanks Ghostrider.

Yeah, I am trying to avoid using the factory one if possible. It is quite tiny, and being under the front guard doesn't really help (airflow, damage, etc...). It isn't the RTA that I am trying to please, it is CAMS (as mentioned in the other thread). Any cuts will definitely be reinforced just as you suggest. The car is an early DR with the front like a domestic MR30. I would like to continue to use it if possible because of the availability of these parts. I can imagine alot of Iron Mask owners out there being quite cranky with me if I kept snatching up all of the available headlights, bonnets,bumpers and grills because I kept damaging them! There is no real problem with me losing the high beam units in order to fit the intercooler piping, just as long as that was where it originally went. Anyone got a scan of that article in Zoom? Does that have some piccies? PM me if you have something that I may be interested in seeing...

I hear ya Ghostrider. I am only trying to comply to the Badly Worded Book (a.k.a. the CAMS Manual) for Production Rally Cars. Basically, suspension is free, as long as you aren't altering the suspension mounting points on the chassis (certain reinforcing is permitted though). Unfortunately, the radiator support panel is not free. The only modifications that are able to be done is those that necessitate the fitment of homologated items; nothing more. That is why I am concerned about where Mr. Fury's intercooler piping went, but have gone nuts on the struts. To be honest, if I was doing it again, I would probably make them (like I have done) but base it on the S13 hub. As for the rears - at this stage, it is nothing more than a new set of Bilsteins and a set of Kings. They aren't adjustable (yet), as the original circlip groove has provided quite adequate ground clearance. But I do have a cunning plan...