BOoStEr

Thanks darrin I'll give him a call.

What about you guys that have put 6X9s in the back? Don't you have the stock grilles spare?

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sketchr30 What do you mean? Most Aust. R30 hatches and Ti sedans had rear discs as std. Only some of the lower spec. ones had drums. The rear end is similar to the 280ZX. All Aust. R30s have IRS type suspension. Is your R30 a low volume import or a fully imported sold new in Aust? If your import has the solid rear axle you may find it difficult to convert.

I'd like some kickpanels too so I can mod them for my tweeters.

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After me. bump.

I posted this in WTB section but I'm not sure how many people look there so I thought I might mention it here. I need a good pair because the compliancers drilled holes in mine for the child seat anchors. I want some spare kicks because I want to fit my tweeters into them and I'm not game to chop my original ones.

Needed as above.

I'd like to buy a pair of parcel shelf speaker grilles in perfect condition for my R32.

PM sent.

It should be for both. 125WRMS won't be too much power. Don't set the gains so high that the amp clips as that can over heat the voice coils. Is your sub 2ohm or 4ohm DVC? If it's 2ohm you should make more power wiring the coils in series and bridging the amp. A good 2x125WRMS amp can make as much as 500WRMS bridged.

Coaxial speakers usually have simple hi-pass filters (half a crossover) built into them. Good quality splits usually have more complex filters, hi pass to tweeters, low-pass to mids ( proper crossover). People often choose coaxials because they are generally cheaper to buy than splits. They can drop straight in as a replacement for the factory speakers and because their simple filter only uses a little bit of power they can be run well off a deck. Generally the more complex crossovers that are used with good splits use more power and need an seperate amp for best results.

One of the wires could be the wrong way around making that speaker out of phase. When one speaker is out of phase they cancel each other out so you get no bass. I looked at the wiring in my R32 and the colours don't match yours but it seems they always use solid coloured wire for the (+) big terminal and striped wire for the (-) small terminal so try swapping the wires to your left speaker because as it is now the striped wire is connected to the (+) terminal.

Me too. Actually I'd like to know if anyone has fitted 3way splits in an R32.

My Focal bochure says both mount in a 142mm hole and the mounting depth of the 165W (utopia) is 78mm compared to 69mm for the 165V (Polyglass). It doesn't state the diameter of either magnet but from the pictures I'd say they are about the same with the Utopia maybe 5mm bigger.

16-18mm is plenty thick enough. 12mm is all you really need.

streamer You should really solder the join in the wires otherwise it will degrade over time and cause problems. The Axis crossover is not used at all now right? The fuzzy sound might be the Clarion stockers. Set the fader on the deck to the front only. Is it clearer now? Most stock speakers are on their way out after six or seven years so it's better to replace them.

A couple of products that I've read about recently that might be worth checking out are Clarke Rubber RF51 25mm foam and Wurth rubberised spray on sound deadener. I haven't seen either of these products but they've been used in addition to Dynamat on some really high end installs with supposedly good results so I'm going to check them out.

Wire the Pioneers straight from the deck and don't use the Axis gear at all. The reason you've had trouble getting a crisp sound is because the woofer output on the Axis crossover is low passed so no treble goes to the Pioneers. Joining the woofer and tweeter outputs sends bass notes to the tweeters and will blow them.

I don't think it's a good idea to use anything that can absorb water inside your doors. After rain you need to let your doors drain and dry out as quickly as possible. The longer water stays in the door the more chance of trims buckling, speakers being water damaged and rust starting.

I had a quick look at doing that when I was going to buy an R33 and it didn't look too difficult. I think to do it properly the battery might need to be moved over a bit and you could replace the front boot-trim with a carpeted MDF panel with the sub-box behind it. You would need a hatch in it to access the battery. You could also flush mount an amp behind it. In my R32 which is similar but without the battery I'm making a sub-box that mounts onto the metal panel that seperates the boot from the backseat. The 10" sub mounts through the panel and fires through the armrest hole in the back seat. This type of setup won't go very loud because you don't get the benefit of bass-loading the same way you do if you fire the sub backwards into the boot but it is good for a sound quality system. I see no reason why it wouldn't work in a 33 but if you want bang for your buck a single 12" facing backwards would be easy.

Brody try this http://www.webaudiodirect.com/ If you really want cheap go the Supra deadsheet. The self- adhesive bitumen sheets are 530x190mm and the loading is about 3.5Kg/square Metre and only costs $2.75 per sheet. Serenitymax has a loading of 4Kg/square Metre and has a layer of aluminium foil on the outside but costs $18 a sheet. Serenitymax is the better product but if I was working to a budget it would be hard to beat the Supra deadsheet for value. The only problem I've had with it is that if you use it to cover holes it breaks up because it doesn't have the aluminium layer but that doesn't matter if you cover the holes with thin MDF first. Bostik deadsheet is a similar product but the loading is only about 2.8 Kg/square Metre.