icydude

rx7 owners have this problem when their synchros are on their way out or if they have 500 hp. shifter pops out while you step on it.

I am looking for a pair of mounts for an rb26. aluninum, hard poly or simular. If there is nothing i will go with the nismo's i guess.

Working on a 2.9L (88mm bore x 79mm stroke), but it will not be available until Jan-Feb 2007. Pricing depends on the style of rods, but in the neighborhood of $5000 w/BC Pro Series (1500HP rating) or $5800 if Carrillo rods desired. BC 4340 billet steel crankshaft. BC 4340 Econo or Pro Series steel billet rods w/ARP 220,000 psi fasteners. CP aluminum forged pistons (any bore size, any compression ratio). 9310 nickel carbon steel alloy wrist pins. Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings. Fully system balanced and ready to install. 88x79 gives you 2.883 L so i think it would be much safer to go 87x79 for a 2.818L 2.9 is pushing it.

I dont see any reason why a gm 5 bar map sensor or 4 bar could not be adapted to work. You can program 5 differnt including the stock on it comes with. Just like as if you were using the l jetro with diff afms. The sensor is just sending an electronic signal which you can interpret to mean anything really. But as said before an extra grand wont break the bank but when it comes down to it all i need to ignition and fuel. I just dont want to go spend 6 grand on a full motec setup when a pfc "should" work.

The os gliken 3l is over priced imo. and the rb30 is not cheap and i know very little about it. of course an hks kit isn't cheap by any means either.

I wouldnt mind going with an rb30 holden block but the problem is they run for about 3500 aud here in Canada in somewhat iffy condition. It will be 90% track 10% weekend car.

you buy the djetro pfc and commander for 71000 yen. Then you need to buy the djetro sensor kit and harness which is another 33000 yen.

The car will be used for Drag 3/4 of the time and maybe a few weekend cruises with my mates.

I guess i should have worded that better my bad. I am wondering what other kits are available and if anyone knows wha tthe nismo 2.8l gt crank can take power wise. Crower's 2.9l will be out shortly in the new year. I don't know if Apexi is still producing the 2.9L The build will be tracked at around 1200 bhp and ran around 800bhp most of the time.

I have been looking into 2.8L kits and it seems to be slightly slim for choices. The tomei kit is not a full counter so i have ruled that out. The hks step 3 is the only one that i am highly considering for 2.8's Now i had a question as to how would the Nismo 2.8 gt crank hold up in a high hp application. I have been reading about a company who ran the stock crank in a 1000hp car and did well over 44 dyno pulls and numerous 1/4 mile runs. This makes me think that the 2.8 gt crank would be as strong as or stonger but i have not seen it being used. I have also been looking at the trust 2.7 full counter kit and the tomei 2.7 full counter. I will not go OS 3L Any help would be great.

Sure have I am a frequent visitor to your site for the last year i would have to say. I was really hoping for opinions from those who have tuned them or drive with them. I wont have space for any mafs.

I would like to have some feedback on the d jetro version of the pfc. I am going to be building a very high hp r32 gtr over the next year and I have no intention of using maf sensors. I recently came across a 1034 rwhp r33 gtr that used a d jetro ecu. I liked my previous l jetro pfc so i thought i would like to use a pfc again but this time with d jetro and datalogit Would i be better of with a ecu such as microtech, tec 3 or anything else?

everything was good just blew the fifth coil pack. in addition i had 601 and 602 coils they looked near the same but the 602's sucked

Well just last night my car blew the front lower turbo coolant return hose(the small lower one on the front of the engine) and decided it would over heat on me but i caught it in time and i threw the clutch in and the car stalled completly as i rolled off the road. The engine bay was covered in coolant but i was lucky and caught it early enough not to send the gauge to the red. now we filled it back up with coolant and cleaned it off and the car runs fine until about 5 minutes after it has warmed up fully. After the 5 or so minutes the car seems like the timing goes way off and sounds like a damn Tractor and full boost comes at 4500 instead of 3300. Anyone able to give me some good ideas as to what it might be. Thanks

ah, did not take that off. just had to get the timing belt on

double post

There is one locator as the crank pully only has a location for one. Also i used a 4 inch 3 arm puller and a can of wd40 and took my time and slowly pulled it off watching the rubber inside very very closely. Also the crank bolt was not on tight at all, kind of scary how loose it was. I removed it testing to see if the clutch would be holding then i slipped and cracked the bolt with a standard 1/2 inch socket

ran into a slight problem. i went to go put the m6x1.00 bolts into the crank pully and it turns out the last person who pulled the pully off broke a m6 bolt on in it. so now i have one bolt hole. What am i to do now? i sure as hell do not want to removed my entire front end.

yup got that one solved i will be trying tomorrow

the bolt is a 30mm head dont know how that happened but it is. Also wont i have problems getting the pully back on with the tension of the timing belt?

thanks for the replys guys. The bolt is not 27mm, i have tried that already. its not much bigger so i was thinking a 28-30 mm Also i have a meter and a half breaker bar to use

Hey everyone, I have the rad removed from my car and the head its ready to be removed. I am not wondering how i go about removing the crank pully. all the belts are loose and now i just need to get the timing belt off. I am aware that the bolt will be torqued to 340 ft/lbs. Now what i need to know is what size is the head on the crank bolt and how to i stop the engine from rotating around. Thanks

its possible that your head gasket is on its way out or there are cracks between the oil galleries and coolant passages. but im going to say its engine oil as it would be alot more likely then ps fluid. if you do a compression check i can guarentee it will be decent but its probably the head gasket:P

I told my buddies it would be easier to take the motor out but they said no the head is always easier have plenty of pictures www.trueform.cc/headwork next time something goes on this car i wont own it:)

we removed the head and wow is that ever a pain in the ass job to do. the intake is such a pita and the coolant lines over on the turbo side are disgusting. Turns out the coolant was coming from a hose underneith the intake manifold. The oil has made all my coolant lines soft and one finaly burst with the pressure. So now that just leaves the coolant in the oil. We are replacing the head gasket and bolts and hoping that clears the problem up. The oil down the side of the block was just the valve cover:P At least this has allowed me to find my vaccumm leak:) just going to change all the vaccumm lines while the manifold is off.