Josh

Yeah that was my plan for it, longer leads with other wire. I have another ECM at home I will try and yeah it won't run, but should at least try to..

Ok, here is my problem, I have an R34 GTT sedan with an R32 RB26 in it, controlled by a ViPec Plug and Play, has run fine like that for over twelve months, a while back I had an issue with the ECM staying constantly powered - draining my battery all the time, which turned out to be a failed Mosfet unit in the ECM itself, I solved that problem by putting a manual switch in the supply voltage line for the ECM power relay, as opposed to shelling out for a new ECM. Now it has developed a misfire, It happens at all RPM/Load/Regardless of temp/Fuel level in tank. I changed plugs (Partly cos it was about time to anyway), all looked good when they came out. Unplugged coils until I isolated where the issue lay, No. 6 Cylinder, Swapped coils around to see if No.6 was faulty - Nope, coil ran fine on another cylinder and 6 still missed, checked actual spark to the cylinder - was exactly the same as all the others. Checked injectors, swapped No. 6 out - no difference, the injector from 6 ran fine in another cylinder and 6 still missed. I unplugged the injectors one at a time to check the voltage across the plug while running (Not sure of actual spec, and I will add the car had no problems starting or running besides the miss at this point), all got, I think from memory, 0.3V, but No. 6 got nothing, So now I'm fairly convinced this miss is being caused by something further up the harness than the Injector. Checked from the ECM injector pins in the plug to ground, while running, all but number 6 got 0.6V, Number 6 got 12.5V...... Again I'm not sure what the spec is exactly, but the fact all got 0.6v and the only cylinder missing got 12.5v is a pretty clear indicator the problem is definitely Injector related.. but not necessarily with the injector.. Also I began to think of perhaps an open circuit in that injectors wiring or high resistance. I also checked the ballast resistor and nearby wiring (due to the fact it runs through the LH wheel arch), No obvious breaks or abrasions to the wire, I checked the resistance through the common wire and each pin in the resistor and got ~6.7ohms for each of them (Which I read on another thread on here that is about normal for them). So I don't think the resistor is the issue.. The only thing I haven't been able to check is actual continuity from the resistor to the injector, and from the injector to the ECM due to shitty length of Multimeter cables and only having one set of hands hah. So I find the resistor ok and go to start the car, no good, battery has gone flat.. This is where it gets even more Poo shaped... Hook the car up to jumper cables and charge for a bit, turn ignition on, fuel pump primes no worries, turn manual ECM switch on and the brown ECM relay does nothing but click about once a second.... I change out the relay, same problem.. I make sure the voltage is ok and see if engine will turn over - it does, and not sluggishly either - cranks like a pro... And this is where I've got to now.. a bit stumped... Given the history I had with the failed Mosfet unit before and how the ECM is behaving now, I'm leaning towards saying IT is the cause of my miss, The different voltage to Injector 6 and now the failure to start/clicking relay problem is making me think its shagged.. The fact that everything else I've checked has turned out ok, which pretty much eliminates them as the cause.. Like I said before the only thing I haven't checked is continuity from resistor to injector and injector to ecm, which could show an open circuit, short, or high resistance at least.. Thoughts/Ideas anyone??

The ECCS relay - is this the brown 6 pin relay near the ecu? If so then I have tried a different relay in that position already with the same result.

I'm still wondering what the relay is exactly for, its not a normal relay, it has six pins, instead of the regular four, and going by the diagram on the relay itself two pairs of the pins are switches, the third pair being a coil... With it unplugged and the key switch in the on position, the fuel pump runs constantly, but no ecu power, with it THEN plugged in it does its normal tach sweep and pump prime for a few seconds. It must be the power relay for the ecu yeah?

Nope, nothing changed, drove home one night, nothing unusual, parked it up, went to start it in the morning and had these problems..

I have an R34 GTT sedan running with an R32 RB26 in it(R32 engine loom was modded to suit an R34 body, not sure who did the work), controlled by a ViPEC plug and play to suit an R32, my issue, is that the ECU has constant power - I can connect to it thru my laptop with the key off and out of the ignition. This causes a few issues - ie running my battery flat... and it also has the effect of not performing the tachometer sweep and fuel pump prime when the key is inserted and turned to the on position as well as causing the the car to run on for a few seconds after being keyed off. It still starts and runs fine and NONE of the other items in the car - stereo/defis/boost controller stay on with the key off. The tacho sweep and fuel prime issue are definitely caused by the constant power as the ecu cannot tell that it is being keyed on, since its already on and so will not perform these functions like its just been turned on - If cranked but not allowed enough time to start, when the key is returned to the on position from start, the pump primes and tacho sweeps like normal..... There is a brown relay(not definite on what it's for) that is situated near the ecu under the kick panel on the passenger side, I have found that it has power to the switch/coil side all the time as even with the key off you can hear the relay click when plugged back in, which means whatever it is a relay for would be getting power all the time - perhaps the ecu. I think it IS for the ecu as when this relay is not plugged in I cannot connect to the ecu at all and the car won't start. Also when i remove the relay instead of turning the key off with the engine running, it shuts off immediately, thus fixing the running on issue, which I was sure WAS related to the constant power problem. I've checked the plugs/wires etc for any obvious breaks/shorts but have come up with nothing so far. The problem here is the harness isn't in the best condition, but still functioned fine up until a couple of days ago.. - like I said before I'm not sure who did the work to join the two harnesses together.. I've had the good fortune of being able to compare voltage readings on my harness to an actual R32 GTR that works fine and found that mine had constant battery voltage at pins 49 & 59 with the key off, while the GTR did not, which is what originally led me to believe the ecu was on all the time. At the moment I'm convinced i'm just going to have to check the whole harness and hopefully find something that doesnt look right.. this will be harder than it sounds due to the harness not being a single factory harness, but an very average amalgamation of two factory harness' and not a lot ACTUALLY looking right anyway Sorry about the long post, anybody else got any other ideas or come across something similar. Oh and the car had been running fine with this setup for around 12 months prior. Josh

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and install it when the car is on a hoist? hahaha

a mech would still be harsh, but yeah it would do it all the time not just right handers if it was a mech..

pics of throttle body?

I am selling a Turbo Kit to suit an RB20 It consists of: IHI RHC6 turbo (With custom braid oil line) Trust external gate with Trust adapter to bolt to standard T3 manifold GTR injectors Lumpy Rom ECU Z32 Air flow meter This combination made 312hp on my RB20 with 10.1afr(very safe tune - lumpy the guru) throughout the range, its a complete bolt on kit with everything you need to get it running, It absolutely rips! $2000 !!!SOLD!!! I am also selling the RB20DET that it was bolted to as well, It has done 117000 km, has had its 100k service done(New belt and cam seals), oil and filter(Running Mobil 1 5W50 with Nissan Filter) changed every 5000km by me since I've had it, It will have standard injectors and both manifolds and turbo $1000 PM on here for questions or SMS 0424 974 451 Located in WA, perth Josh

Far out.. my 20 is running 20pound and is a daily... in 4th and 5th it runs some pretty stupid boost too... it runs rich as tho, 10.1 ratios throughout the range..... got me thinkin how long till she blows..

Took a while haha First pic is the original 299hp (on 20 pound) dyno run Second pic is of 312hp(232kw on 22 pound) run after it had been rommed, new injectors, airflow metre, cam gears and avcr. the cam gears managed to bring full boost on 1000rpm sooner which is what I was am really happy about, I know it could make more power, but it would really put a strain on the engine, so im rapt with were it is now

Dude that is sexual!! I love it!! Would be kinda nice to get that power out of my 20.. at 222kw atm..

I have a trust adapter that bolts between turbo and mani to allow a gate to be used on a lowmount application.. works well