R32 TT
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Posts posted by R32 TT
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haha that's what i was saying about 6 hours ago......
What's really confusing is, that on my last GTR, it was obvious i blew the engine (wasnt cause of the turbo) and you could hear the clear tapping of the bottom end.
At the moment all u can hear is a grinding sound when trying to start. I assume that once it starts i'll be able to hear it. I'm kinda hoping that it's not stuffed though, will find out for sure on Monday. All i know is that rebuilds=expensive.
Yeah.. what a mess. Only had the car a while. Put in a 12.33 on its first run and I took it home. (not into the drags, just wanted to see..)
Dropped a fair bit of cash into it in a short time including a Motec M800 and Motec CDI ignition system... Garrett GT2860r's on order - but out of stock so we fitted the Motec gear intending to run it for 4 to 6 weeks while we waited for the turbos.. Made 256rwhp on the old setup running 1.15bar - but ran a healthy 275rwhp running only 1bar flat using the Motec, with crisp throttle and idle etc..
Might sound like I "have the money" but quite frankly, I have stretched the budget.
If the motor needs a rebuild I am down for the count in the 2nd round...
Would it be cheaper/better to simply buy a drop in replacement motor?
I'm looking for no more that 500 engine hp - so I had hoped the stock unit would be up to it.
?
...sorry to hear that you're in the same predicament.. no fun eh...
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Ok, I have a similar story.
I imported a GTR from Jap, went to pick it up from the wharfes and found that the turbos weren't working (drives like an N/A) Later found the turbine wheels in the cat.
Bought turbos, gave em to the mechanic.
Drove the car a bit without functional turbos.
Today, found out that after the turbos were installed, the engine may have packed itself. Still not sure, but it won't even start now. Cranks over and complains, sort of a grinding sound. Wont start. I think the turbo stuffing up may have something to do with it.
LINK:
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85535
Uh oh...
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If u live in Melbourne u should visit Bresciani Racing, they r not just VL builders, they build everything RB26 or 30 Professionals. and tell them wat happend...
Cheers for that Josip, I might give them a call and see what they reckon..
My engine builder doesn't think it would happen - but to be fair, he's not doing Skylines everyday and may not have thought of the fact that just 3 cylinders are in the equation...
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Matt,
The best way to try and explain what happens is if you think of the turbine wheel spinning at god know what rpm starts to brake apart the ceramic piece would be traveling at hugh velocity in all directions and it's not hard to see how the pieces could over power the exhaust flow back to the exhaust valve (normally the cylinder in the centre and in line with the turbo cops the worst of it 2 on frt and 5 on the back)on the r34 i sore this happen to it even damaged the inlet valve with small dents ans scratches from the ceramic pieces getting caught. I best way to see if it has damage the engine would be a compression test on the gtr i did the three damaged cylinder were all down on compression compared to the rest.Can i ask what boost you had been running the turbos at?
pete
ps i hope it is all ok
G'day Pete,
Yeah I can see what you mean re the velocity that parts off the turbo would have when it let go. They'd be fairly moving! It's just that they're so light - I figured even a whisper of air would blow them back downward toward the cat.. And considering the air speed and force of the exhaust I wouldn't have thought they'd go far at all.. To me it seems like throwing confetti against a stiff wind! It'd go nowhere! But... if people have had it happen.. well then, there goes that theory.
I guess its all academic now anyway. I guess I have to spend the money on new turbos, have them fitted and then just "see" if it continues to live...!?
I *hate* that. I'll do the compression test and see. I know all six cylinders had 150 only a week before it happened. So if any are down - I guess we'll know..
As for the boost - at the time, and during the last half of all of the dyno tuning etc it was running dead on 1bar. But the owner I bought the car off mostly ran 1.15 and had often run it at 1.25bar. Prior to the Motec going on I had continued to run it at 1.1bar myself..
Naturally I had hoped to have the new turbos on before this happened! Especially since I only drive it weekends - but as you know - the GT2860/2650r have been out of stock.....
I suppose the Dyno tuning would have put it under a fair bit of stress.
Also, there was quite a lot of backfiring as the revs were being backed off on Dyno... Would this be having a "detonation" effect on the turbo's do you think?
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hmm.. I can understand that as 2 of the 3 exhaust valves are closed that when the 3rd is open is might be exerting pressure back up the manifold to towards 2 and 3..., but there isn't "airflow" in that direction is there? (and not vacuum surely?)
And even is something was sent right up to a closed valve, wouldn't it be blasted out the moment the valve started to open?
I'm not saying to anyone it hasn't happened of course.. if people have had it happen, then its happened - who am I to argue... I just can't understand how.
And since some people have said theirs has been ok - am wondering how you figure it out before its too late...
I can't believe this could mean a full rebuild!
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Hey gang,
Well, the thing happened that I had hoped wouldn't.
Did a fair bit of Dyno work last week, fitting a new ECU, and - after about an hour of being finished - my front Stock Turbo spat it.
I pulled out into traffic and gave it a foot full and it more or less went halfway through making boost I think.
Luckily I was only about 500m from the workshop so I parked it more or less straight away..
Now I've read a lot of posts saying that blowing a standard turbo exhaust wheel can somehow take out the motor?
Firstly - how? Can the bits of wheel travel back up the exhaust manifold against the pressure of exhaust flow AND make it past an open exhaust valve?? OR, did the motors that have blown actually lose a wing or two on the compressor side (which seems more likely)
By the way, we have the turbos and exhaust off and yes, my wheel is in 'bits', it didn't stay as one piece..
Also, for those who have actually had this happen - did it more or less munch the motor straight away? Or a few hundred kilometers later?
The reason I ask is my motor still starts and purrs just like it did before. Obviously I am not driving it - but it "seems" fine.
Someone said "ceramic dust" can get back into the motor, and then slowly grind it up... but that seems even less likely than "pieces" getting in there as surely dust wouldn't make it against the exhaust flow?
What else can I "look for" to try and save the motor?
Gimme some good new guys..
Cheers!
PS.. Yes, I had turbos on order since about 6 weeks ago and would have had them fitted by now if they were in the country... <_<
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Competition Coatings in Guildford NSW did my dump, manifold, exhaust housing etc etc. much cheaper then HPC and do the same thing, and the stuff is still looking good on my car after 2 years
How do you rate it Roy? Besides the fact that it still looks good of course. Do you think that there really are benefits in better spool time and more power to be had from it all?
I'm sure it keeps underbonnet temps down a little - and perhaps even extends the life of the components coated - but I am more interested in the true gains in performance, and keeping the ait flow up.
A negative feature was suggested to me: And that was that since I am keeping the exhaust temp so hot (because it can't lose heat so easily) that I would be putting further stress on the internals of my turbine and bearing etc! <_< catch 22? Or irrelevant do you think?
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ACV-R can do that in intervals of 500rpm
Ah - so it does! (just looked it up)
I have a basic HKS boost controller which doesn't - and I only ever see people quoting max boost.... so I wondered if this sort of thing was played with much..
Sorry if it was a dumb question! I come from a normally aspirated backgorund and am still learning.
So would this be the norm then?
Are people out there tending to raise the boost as RPM goes up?
cheers,
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Do any of the boost controllers allow you to set boost levels depending on RPM?
For example - supposing I want to limit boost to 1.2bar at 5000rpm and slowly ramp boost up to my maximum boost of (for arguments sake) 2bar at 8000rpm?
The reason I ask the question is that since boost is "resistance to airflow", as you go up the RPM range, the valves are only opening for much shorter periods, and so while you are reading say 1 bar at 6000rpm, you're probably only getting half the amount of air in as you are at 3000rpm when also running 1bar... ( is that theory right?)
So I was thinking that an engine under load 4000-5000rpm might not like 2bar being belted into it, (a bit like a shot of nitrous too early in the revs) but could well handle it up around 7000-8000 rpm?
If a boost controller is set at 1.5bar to "suit" the 4000-5000 rpm range, then am I getting less and less air into it at higher revs as the valves are opening and shutting faster and faster and hence building up back pressure? (ie reading same boost, but getting less air-flow?)
Thoughts?
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Hi guys,
Just a question on Ceramic coatings.
I have just bought some s/h Mines Dump pipes. I already have some HKS front pipes. New turbos are on their way.
When the whole system is apart and out of the car, I was thinking of ceramic coating the Dump Pipes and Front pipes to keep the heat in and therfore keep the gas velocity up. (as well as keep a little heat out of the engine bay).
I have heard/read of ceramic coating causing issues.
Some say only coat the outside of the pipe.
Some say do inside and out.
Some have even said don't do it as it makes the pipes crack??
My gut feeling is to do both inside and out, and that the ceramic would actually make the pipes last longer as it would be keeping the extreme temperatures from reaching the actual metal itself.
Then of course there are a few different flavours of ceramic coating...
Any experiences? Recommendations?
Cheers,
Matt.
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still available?
Yup, sure are! Missed an opportunity to sell to one of the guys in this thread because I took a couple of days to get back to him and he bought some others...
Haven't really done any more advertising - so still got them.
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Really looking forward to driving the car and getting some KM's on it with the new turbo set up
Yeh I did fit different dump pipes..a set of stainless MINES dumps. Still running stock injectors, pump, cooler. Other mods are power FC, full exhaust, clutch, cam gears and some pod filters.
Where did you get the MINES dumps from and how much did you pay?
I am trying to locate some - or perhaps Tomei Dumps as I think they are similar.
I'm not convinced of the split pipe design at all.
Did you have to mate them to MINES front pipes? Or are most Front Pipes and Dumps interchangeable? (ie do MINES dumps match up ok with HKS Front Pipes in terms of flange and bore etc?)
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Looking for Tomei, Mines or similar dump pipes for twins on GTR.
Prefer not to have the split type like HKS/Trust..
Any out there?
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Just thought i'd post up now that i've joined the GTSS turbo club
My GTR isn't all that modified but these turbo's are great! Spools up quicker than standard for sure and pulls much harder even on a lower boost level! No dyno or 1/4 mile figures as yet, but looking like i'll be hitting WSID 13th of july
Excellent - let me know how it goes. I'm looking at these as one option for myself - would really like some feedback.
Did you fit different dump pipes? Injectors to suit? etc?
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Anyone using redline shockproof heavy?
Have used it in previous cars yes. Its the ultimate in shear load protection...
If you really want the low down on what Redline product for what application, give Tim a ring at WestRacing on 08 94461913. He's full bottle.
On the oil change interval. Well - how long is a piece of string I guess. Depends how hard its driven and what parts are getting loaded the most.
A 6 sec Drag car throws away the oil after one race meet (or more!) even if the oil is untouched.
For me, I'd prob check the diff oil at 5,000km and 10,000km to see how its fairing. If it looks good I'd be happy to leave diff oil in for 20,000 to 30,000km no probs if its a good oil.
A race car probably wouldn't...
Let's face it though,
No one ever did any harm changing their oil a little more often than needed. So if you can afford to change it more often - do it.
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Drop it back a gear and let me know if it still vibrates.
My g/box has done that in 5th around 95-100km/h since day 1.
I'll do that!
Gimme a few days - she's in the workshop having Motec fitted (yay!)
(hmm.. wonder if I can 'tune out' the vibration...)
But yeah I'll let you know,
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Sorry for the late reply, I ended up buying a set of Garrett GT2560R Ball bearings turbos as these will bolt straight on and fall in my budget range of $3000.
I have been told by a garrett dealer that these will bolt straight on and flow up to 400 HP each at 1 bar and have a steel exhaust wheel. They are cabable of 1.8 bar max.
I could not get a set of HKS 2530's or N1 's in that price range, equal to the same performance as the GT2560R..
The turbos that were pulled of the car Seemed to be a Garrett T28 ball bearing hybrid turbo. These are in as good as new condition with zero end play and are for sale if you know of anyone interested. (they have been inspected by a mechanic and I was told they barley have done I000-3000 km). they have a ceramic exhaust wheel and are only cabable of handling 300HP at 1 bar max. hence the reason I am up grading to the GT2560R.
I have been told by the engine builder that the car should produce 400 + RWK with the addition of a power Fc, boost controller, 550 injectors, high pressure fuel pump and bigger intercooler
Thanks for the help
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Hey Mike, I am going through exactly the same process.
Am thinking about GT-SS or the GT2560r like you.
I understand that the GT2560r more or less IS the N1 turbo and I have also heard that the GT2560r IS the GT28RS (disco potato), Garrett implemented a new naming scheme apparently.
anyhow, back on subject. How did it go? Do you have them fitted? And most importantly what is their response like?
I am after quick spool up and hence I am looking at the GT-SS also.
Matt.
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Just wondering what oil you guys are running in your mech. LSD's
Time for a oil change in mine
Redline 80W140.
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I think Nismo make "hardness up" rubber bushes:cheers:
Yep, they sure do. I just fitted the Nismo ones about 4 weeks ago.
My existing bushes had split and leaked the silicon(?) fluid out of them.
Putting the Nismo's in really has turned it into a go-kart.. but of course since the stock ones were shot - you would expect that.
I got them straight from a Nissan dealer here in Perth. Watch out though, they are a little over $100 each (and you need 4) They are a solid black rubber material. I don't know if they are stiffer or not that Poly bushes, but I think Poly is a third of the price. (I learned that after I had bought the Nismo's)
Also, NVH has definitely increased for me. In fact I even feel a bit of a vibration through the seat between 80-100km/hr. This may be "something else" vibrating that needs looking at - and perhaps the bushes have just brought it to my attention. Below 80km/hr, they feel fine. Point is, the vibration wasn't felt prior to them being fitted.
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Have you sold the suspension yet if not call 0419 314 099
No they haven't been sold as yet. Have one guy looking at them - but not sure yet if he wants them yet.
I'll try your number a bit later in the day.
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Are the GTR and GTS-T R32 sussy the same??? can they be used on either model?
I am not 100% sure of this. But I asked the suspension guy over here who I deal through and he's pretty sure it only fits R32 GTR and nothing else.. disappointing huh..
Anyone know different?
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']are they height adjustable? damper adjustable? both? this will give you an idea of what one it is. someone can tell you which one is which. I know HA and HR but not which is which. did that make sense? haha
Ah yeah. Good point .
They are height adjustable, but my workshop guys don't "think" that they are damper adjustable. Might have to take it down to one of the local workshops that know Teins and get them to have a close look and tell me which sort they are.
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Hi Guys, only bought the car a little while back and am not full bottle on the various types of Tein available, so can't give you a model number.
They are currently on the car so if you're in Perth, message me and you can come and see/feel the ride for yourself if you're interested.
Reason for sale: I'm getting old and soft...:whatsthat ... and they aren't either of those things. (acutally they don't ride too bad, but I am going for Bilsteins - you be the judge - probably great for drifters)
I am told they should be worth around $800 - $1000 ?
Offers would be considered of course.
If you want to know more about "what sort are they", please just tell me what to look for (colour, shape etc?) and I will describe them better.
Cheers!
Matt.
Blown A Standard Turbo On Gtr
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Thats interesting you say that.. I hadn't tried to cost it up as yet (burying my head in the sand
)
But I think I had read on the forums most people suggesting $6k-$8k??
So the question is now - do I pull it apart and "see" if I can save a lot of the components before they're f$%$#.
What do you reckon would be a rebuild cost then when you say its a fair bit cheaper?
$500 Labour? Isn't that just for getting to motor out??