blackprincegts

allot quicker than a 15.5 for sure.. my gts t auto r32 ran 14.78 quarter and 6.4's 0-100kph when stalled of the line. r33 would not be slower i shouldnt think. if driven properly they arnt far behind the manuels

dunno ifits been covered b4 but my mate rekns if u take mothballs and disolve them in a bit of fuel and strain the wax out then put the liquid into the fuel tank thatit increases the octane like crazy... no idea ifits true. lol.. anyone know?

nah wasnt gunna chuckit out, gunna get my mate to resolder it up 4 me.. cheers

a whole bottle of nulon pro strength in just under half a tank of shell v-power 98 into my gts't auto a fortnight ago when tookit dragging. I noticed a good difference mainly because it stopped the car pinging like it does even on 98.. my gts t still has the little green sticker in the fuel filler door that i believe states use 100ron fuel only..lol.

what state does this guy live in? just post his details up on the forum..lol.

Yeah swapped it with my wifes gts-t and its not doing it anymore, so has to be the AFM, ill get myself another one when i get a chance. unless its a coincidance that the problems stopped.. lol, i hope not.i want it fixed.

ok incase anyones interested iv found my problem. AFM.. started getting worse and worse untill it went completely into limp home mode..obviously theres dodgy connections in there or something. very wierd because it presented slightly different symtoms than what normally occurs when they go.. Btw, it doesnt show up on ecu diagnostics..dunno why.

yeah probably about a year, maybe a year anda half ago. Just witha stock gts-t one. iv let the engine run and cant see any leaks around that region either.

guys the problem is definately getting worse now. I havnt had time to do a thorough inspection of my lines but so far they look ok. Looks like i might have 2 slightly leaky injectors again, but iv watched them and i cant see fuel coming out just looks bit like fuel been escaping a bit around the injectors. I have noticed that when i open my fuel tank now theres no sound of pressure being released anymore. I remember there used to be, so does this indicate that there is a pressure leak somewhere in the system? If there is guess thats the cause of my problem.. Cheers

seriouse. Ok ill look in2 that.. Thanks.. i must say though that my gts-t auto gets ALLOT hotter under the engine bay than my GTS, although if you think there might be a problem in my fuel rail then that would explain it.. Iv run plenty of nulon octane boost and flush through it and changed the filter just over a year ago. (Had the original nissan filter on it, lol).

Hi all, I posted up last summer with this same problem but i really didnt get enough info to help me with my problem.. The problem im having is that my GTS is spluttering and stalling like it needs fuel/ At first this was happening only on extremely hot days. around the 40degree mark, id be driving along, start to feel like im running out of fuel and as soon a the revs get lowish the car would die. The problem went away completely all year untill last week when we got the hot spell here in adelaide. This time the problems getting worse though, its cooled down now but i still havethe problem with the stalling and starving for fuel. I need ideas on what this can be, iv taken it to a number of mechanics and they do not give me any answers, one guy said to me it could be o2 sensor, i sed i think not...obviously doesnt know much about skylines then... So somethings geting affected by heat, im thinking Crank Angle Sensor, AFM and fuel pump right now.. less likely to be the fuel pump though i think.. Please help with your ideas..Mechanics iv taken it to obviously dont want a bar of it.. Cheers

oh and btw, his aim was around 170 at the rears with these mods. Eventually he sed he might chase more but i must say its pretty damn quick as it is.

yeah i did say to him that i would guess that his car would make another 20rwkws or so being tuned anyway. Il get him to check the ecu diagnostics. good idea. i think the problem he was saying is that unlike the r32 etc he cant just go getit chipped for a hundred bux or something.. he's gunna be up for atleast $600 atleast i think.

yeah i agree about the dyno results thing.. I was more so meaning that all the other s14's ecu's seemed to handle the same mods without cutting the power back like what my brothers has. Not so much the actual KW readings. thats why he rekns it musnt be due to the rich afr's..

Hey all.. My brother has a 97 s2 s14. He had it dynoed stock andit made 128rwks.. then he removed the boost restrictor to take it to 10psi and wacked on a pod andit made 137rwks or something thereabouts.. At this point the car ran real nice.. the power curve was just right i think. Within the last 2weeks his had a highflow lowmount manifold, 3inch highflow cat, dump and 3inch mandrel etc... All te normal exhaust mods. Its still running the stock side mount cooler but that will change soon. Anyway he hadit dynoed again today after all the mods.. It hit 146.3rwkw's at about 5000rpm then the power drops off hardkore down to below 130 i think.. Looking at the chart the afr's go extremely rich up top. the graph only goes down to 10 and the red line sits on that pretty much the whole time above 5grand. He rekns that his stock ecu should be able to handle the mods easily because his seen plently of other s14's run 170od rwkw's on stock tune. My feeling is that his ecu is simply dumping in to much fuel and cutting the power, but the dyno operator rekns that somethings screwed onit, like the crank angle or knock sensor. Any input into this would be much appreciated because his pretty pissed off with the results.Hopefully ill be getting him to scan the charts and post them up here 2moro to give you guys a better indication of whats going on. Cheers guys!

well i own both.. iv got a 32 gts manuel anda 32 gts t auto..believe it or not my gts will beat my gts t through the hills etc.. well as long as i keep the revs above and 7 grand where the power comes in.Iv weighed both the cars and the gts is 90kg lighter than the auto gts t so thats probably why i can getit goen quicker through corners and crap.. Line the 2 cars up at the lights and the gts will normally have the gts t by about half a car through 1st.. then, dead even right through 2nd.. just after changing into 3rd in the gts (about 100km/h) the gts t will pull away a decent amount. As for the fuel economy, the difference between the 2 is nothing in my opinion..actually if anything the gts t (which is driven by my wife) gets about 30-40kms more per tank nowadays than my gts. I can tell you that after driving both cars that the gts t feels a hell ov lot more powerfull. The problem with the gts is there really isnt much power below about 4500rpm, if you want to make it go well you gotta take the revs up. The gts t just powers away easily with plenty of torque pull from about 2700-2800rpm. Oh and the gts has bugger all torque and doesnt like hills much either, once again unless you drive it above 5000rpm. The gts t just powers up big hills extremely easily. I would say if you can afford the turbo car then go for that one. Gts's can get a bit annoying to drive around sometimes due to their lack ov torque, believe me you get sick ov revving it out all the time. And also if it helps you at all, a gts will easily beat your pulsar ina drag. I know people with them and yeah, they get eaten by me.lol. Ina straight line you will be around 2-3 car lenghts ahead ov VN commies etc, which is always a good... ahahaha.. all the best with making your decision.

not 100% sure dude but i think there pretty low numbers..If i remember correctly i think my rb20de was like between 157 and 165 on all 6. i doubt that changing your head gasket to another stock nissan 1 would change your compression that much. i remember working it out that adding 0.5mm to your head gasket only lower it by like 0.3 ova point or sumtn...

yeah that circular strip of metal you mentioned is what my old one has. The only reason i got this steering wheel was because i gotit for really cheap and i thought i would be able to make it work..Im low on cash but wanted something that looks good 2. All i gotta do is get the horn to work and ill be happy with it.. I find it strange that the r33 one doesnt have that circular strip ov metal because i cant figure out any other way of them getting contant power accross to the wheel... Wierd.

Ok, i bought what i think isa s1 r33 steering wheel, looks quite similar to an r32 m spec one.. Anyway, it bolts up ok and looks wicked compared to my completely torn type s steering piece ov crap i had b4.. The way in which the horn operates in the new wheel is different from how it operates in the old wheel.. The standard setup used like a little brass button that brushed up against a metal plate connected to the steering wheel. This brass button has 12volts goen through it obviously. I know its pretty damn hard to give me any good answers without photos and if i get no replies ill try and get some photos posted up here to explain better. Bassically i ran a 12volt from the column into the steering wheel, the horn then worked so i putit back 2gether and went for a drive.. Stupid me didnt think that as soon as i turned the wheel the wire would snap. Does anyone know how im supposed to get 12v's accros to the horn button now?? going by the photos iv seen on the net of gtr steering wheels it seems they are designed the same way as this 33 one iv got.. Thanks for any help.. Believe me it would be appreciated cos i need my horn to work... oh and indicator doenst turn off after exiting corners now but i know thats a normal problem to have when switching wheels and i might be able to fix that.. CHeers

lolzords... iv dunnit on my GTS..and iv got 250 fully sick rear wheel kw's with just the intercooler in place of the pod...

or even if someone knows how i can manually close the vents for now so that atleast my aircon will work in 2moros 40degree heat???

hi all... i posted earliar today in another post about aircon..since then i have removed the control unit where all the buttons and switches for the aircon and heater are and i cant see anything wrong with it externally.. Earlier i posted that the vent control motor is not functioning, well this is not true. I can change which vents the air comes through, the motor for that is funtioning properly however i cannot close the fresh air vent, when i press the button nothing happens and i cannot trace back from the wires where the servo unit for the fresh air vent is.. Can anyone give me any ideas at all while iv got the thing apart?? thanks in advance

I was about to post up with the same problem. I havnt got the climate control in mine, mines just the old crap slide switch thing.. I cant close of my external vents or change where my vents flow the air either, when i push the buttons i cant hear the little motor sound any more so ill be pulling mine out tonight to see if what 666dan said is correct or not,, i hope so.. its means i cant really use my aircon because i cant close of my fresh air vents therefore it dont realy get cold... its poo... cheers

Skit r31: there was no need to take a stab at me like that. I was simply stating that in the SPECIFIC case i was talking about the mods that this guy did seemed to do very little or nothing& that his stock r31 he has now would walk all over it!! I also stated that his engine might have been screwed. So why tell me to dream on mate????And i dont care if my car is lighter etc, that wasnt the point i was trying to make.. I was trying to get my point accross to Vashr31 how the 3 cars spoken of in my post went against each other and thats how we were gauging the power difference between his old r31 and his new 1. DONT TELL ME TO DREAM ON!! i dont speak crap like some people do!! SKY031 : yeah one would think that he would be able to pull from me with those mods. Even the guy himself said he doesnt believe that all the stuff he did made any real diference. thats the problem with NA tuning, he's not the first person iv seen who has done mods to that extent and not seen any real gain or in some cases gone backwards. But yes, his motor quiete possibly was screwed in the old one..

A friend of my brothers has an r31. was a manuel as well. He chipped the ecu, xf throttle body, cold air intake with pod,extractors, high flow cat and rest of the exhaust( EXTREEEMELY LOUD). It went ok but my rb20de with justa catback and exhaust used to be able to pull away from it nicely. He now has another r31 manuel. he just hasa pod onit its bassicly even with my r32 except my car will pull ever so slightly high up in the rev range. .. Whether or not his old motor was just tired or all the mods he did just made it go backwards we shall never know cos the cars a write-off..Just something to think about