-Totenkopf-

SOLD.

If you were willing to split, how much for wastegate only?

Some pics: Thanks. James.

The wastegate new or used? Thanks, James.

Pics postponed till tomorrow for all that requested them. Had to attend a birthday party today of a family member, as such didn't have time to get around and borrow a digi cam.

Ah, appears it wasn't the boost controller playing up at all, the diaphram in my external gate has splits in it As such, im pretty sure this is 100% working and without fault. Adjusting price to $200 ono in light of this new info. Anyone interested? Will try get ahold of a digital camera tomorrow and take some happy snaps. It comes with: Controller unit. Little 'brain' box I guess you'd call it. Vacuum line to from above mentioned box to engine bay, with a T piece on that end. Solenoid box. Loom to connect 'brain' box to the solenoid box and also power and ground connections (these will probably need shortening for most cars, it was pulled from an MR2, and as such, wiring is a fair amount longer then your standard front engined car). Anyhow, pics to come. I'll take some pics of the external gate diaphram whilst im at it to show you that im not having you on, unfortunately for me

Bump, this may not even be faulty at all. Seem to have similar issues with the eboost as well. Admittedly its not setup correctly yet but I'll keep you in touch with the results.

Hey ladies and gents, looking to offload this boost controller as I've bought a replacement. It currently has a glitch where its not running the original boost pressure it used to, traced it to the solenoids I almost 100% sure, bleeding pressure, even when the controller is switched off. Works as is and seems to work quite well but I don't want to risk damage in case of a spike or what not as im running a pretty 'on the edge' tune. Issue started about 2 months ago, where base boost with controller in the loop rose from 7psi to 10psi. Had marks for my 'safe tune' on the controller unit which is now useless to me as I had to wind the knob down for it to run near correct boost. From face appearance (I cant confirm, just looks exactly identical, the solenoid box itself I talk of) the twin solenoid setup is exactly the same as that used in the newer Blitz Dual SBC Spec R pictured here : http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/images/sbcspecr.jpg so you if you could just source the solenoid box, or even just the solenoids, then its quite an easy task to swap them over (I've opened up the solenoid box and applied some silicon to wherever I could see joins on the 2 solenoids to make sure there were no external leaks - didn't help, so obviously one of the solenoids is leaking internally) Difference from the unit in the picture and the older Blitz Twin Solenoid I have for sale is that there is no digital 'boost gauge' type unit on the controller, and there is also an extra component, guess its the brains of the unit, where the controller is connected to, as well as a vacuum line and loom going off to the solenoid box that you position in the engine bay. Has adjustability for sensitivity and switch for use for both actuator and wastegate setups. Anyway, as I said, it works as is and when setup the boost doesn't seem to be all over the place (ie, its continually holding the same boost when setup the same, not one minute 10psi, next minute 15psi etc etc) but I cant promise that that'll be the deal in the long time (solenoid could start bleeding more air). Has two adustable levels and a button to switch between the Hi and Lo settings, as well as power button to turn it off altogether (although as I said, it currently wont run 'base' boost even with the controller turned off, ie whatever the wastegate or external gate runs as standard, which I believe is ~5 or 7psi in MR2s with stock wastegate actuator.) Anyhow, would like $150 ONO but throw me an offer. I'll take pics of the unit once I get my hands on the eboost 2 and remove this unit.

Hey mate, still have these: also as i was cleaning up the garage I have found a pair of eagle F1's 225/50/17 with really good tread. $50 for them and also a set of 5 215/45/17 potenzas with more than 50% tread $120 for the set. still have a few pairs of 16's left as well The 17's im talkin about.

My times starting to run short to find one of these... last stab at getting one! Anyone able to help? Alternately, anyone wanting to buy a 1.06AR housing, absolutely unused. I've found a guy selling a 0.82 housing but I dont have the cash currently. $250ONO PP for the 1.06 housing, pic can be found here - http://members.optusnet.com.au/jamescol/ho...%20(Medium).jpg

Still looking ladies and gents

T3 exhaust flange. Have someone wishing to purchase it, I've given him till Wednesday to come up with the funds as im on a tight schedule (needing to move soon, need the money to get my car fully operational again) and thus don't have time for time wasters. If he hasn't come up with the cash by Wednesday it'll be up for grabs again, had a couple of other people offer 'possibly $300' but im waiting for them to get back to me after I sent them through further pics yesterday. Basically first in first served, whoever can get me the money quickest gets the turbo. Thanks for your enquiry. James.

I think I've now sent off pics to anyone who has requested some. Anyone else who wants pics of the turbo off the car PM or email me with an email address ([email protected]). Waiting for a few guys to get back to me. First offer to $300 gets it, delivered at that price, otherwise best offer before before friday takes it. Current best offer is $200. Thanks guys.

XR6 T comes with 1.06 rear housing, and are also internally wastegated, so not much use.

Bumpidy, getting desperate, I'll add a bit of cash on top for your troubles.

Have a GT35/40 here with a 0.82 rear housing. Failed on me a couple of weeks ago driving from Sydney to Orange, started off with intermittent whining bout half way home, by the time I got back it was doing it almost constantly. As far as im aware I think the bearings in it are rooted, possibly by oil starvation. Play in the shaft is not overly large, but its apparent that it was sufficient to allow the wheels to barely scrub the housings. AFAIK the compressor wheel took slight burring but im almost certain its still useable. I've pulled the turbine housing off and unfortunately it looks like the turbine will require replacing. It also scrubbed the housing barely, but due to slight abnormalities in the surface of the housing the lower 1cm or so of the turbine blade where it heads vertical has kinks into it, due to hitting a small bump on the inside of the housing due to the play. Side to side play (cant remember the exact term) I'd guess to be at around 1mm, whilst the axial play is almost non existent. When I spoke to GCG about a rebuild they said it'd cost somewhere between $800-1200 dependant on damage, but after pulling the the turbine housing off and seeing the damage to the turbine I'd guess it'd be approaching the upper figure to have it rebuilt. The housings are still in perfect shape though and wont require machining AFAIK. I can still spin the wheels and they spin smoothly and for quite a length of time, though the sound produced by the turbo when the shaft is spinning gives me the idea something is fubared with the bearings. The overall condition of the turbocharger is fairly good, could use a bit of a clean up cosmetically (its quite dirty externally, has a few little scratches on the housings, nothing a light sand or polish wouldn't rectify) and due to it being in an MR2 bay for years, with little guard from the weather, the centre housing has developed some surface oxidation, but I think they basically replace the whole centre housing when they have bearing failures in ball bearing turbos? Only other fault would be that the thread in one of the 4 bolt flange flange holes where you connect the dump pipe up is missing, and that hole is slightly enlarged. This was due to a bolt snapping in there, and easyout failing to remove it, so it had to be dug out with a die grinder, and the person who did it didn't do the neatest job. Anyhow, after that experience I just opted to use a nut and bolt technique to secure the dump pipe, with bolts slightly smaller then the proper thread size, so I wouldn't get stuck/snapped bolts again. Anyone, tried to explain its condition as well as I could, dont have a digi cam on me but I should be able to get a hold of one if you want pics of it as it sits. Have a couple of pics of it from when it was still on the car that I will attach. At the moment im just taking offers, really don't have any idea what it'd be worth, but I have a bit of a value in mind that if not exceeded then I may as well keep it for spare parts. Thanks. Any further enquiries, PM me, or email me at [email protected]

Bump? Anyone?

If you still have this in a month or so I might have use for it, my GF's laptop just shit itself, but so did my turbo, and at the moment we dont have funds to replace both.

Should be in possession of a 1.06 housing shortly, however, I'd like to swap a 0.82 housing onto the turbo, and the one I have here is in less then desirable condition. Anyone have a 0.82 housing (can be used, just needs to be in good condition and have the threads in the holes to bolt the DP up) that they would be willing to swap, or sell. Thanks.

It was bearing failure in the turbo itself. You can see the remainder of what appears to be the exhaust side bearing casing moving upa nd down the shaft when you look into the oil return. Had to drive for about 200km with the turbo shitting itself, started off with intermittent whining then about 30km before I got home it was a constant whine whenever on the throttle. Did a compression test the night before I did the 500km the following day, came up with 150psi in all 4 cylinders (yes 4, my car is a 93 model Toyota MR2 turbo.) did a compression test shortly after buying the car where I also got 150psi across all 4, so there was no change there. I was noticing excessive noise from turbo when car was cold before the turbo died all together, like if I started it up int he morning for 30seconds-1minute, and shut it down, the turbo would grumble and growl and gritt as it spun down. Anyway, RIP turbocharger, will be using thinner oil in future. It was on special at the time thats why I grabbed it

Shit, I was using that castrol 10w-60 shit and my gt35r just died, bearing failure... A quick question, was there any other noticable damage to your engine due to using such a thick oil? I've only been running this stuff for about 2-3000km.

PM'ed in regards to turbo. Thanks!

Yes, is it still for sale?

0.5 front housing? Its not 0.70?

Did this ever get sold?