salad

I wouldn't recommend any of the cheap coilovers. My experience with HSD wasn't good, but everyone else seems to have good luck with them. When I had them in my car, I hated them. Each to their own.

0.80mm = 3842440f60 price = $10.12 0.85mm = 3842440f62 price = $14.67 0.90mm = 3842440f63 price = $9.97 1.01mm = 3842440f67 price = $9.79 1.05mm = 3842440f68 price = $14.40 1.10mm = 3842440f70 price = $6.37 1.20mm = 3842440f73 price = $6.37 1.30mm = 3842440f76 price = $10.89 1.40mm = 3842440f80 price = $6.37 1.49mm = 3842440f83 price = $6.37 Guide http://www.d1nz.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php...a84e160bbe32105 Enjoy

HSD HR is OK for street, seems to work well for drift, not sure about circuit. But you can get much much better than HSD, they are a cheap coilover aimed at a price bracket, so they will skimp on things to meet this bracket. Same with all cheap coilovers/shocks.

Yes, GTS-t has it aswell.

Me and a mate have got these. Got them off yahoo auctions for $500 delivered if I remember right. Some generic jap things. They're good, plenty of adjustment, but are pretty harsh for street use.

Not sure what you mean by the first question Yes, HSD HRs come with pillowball/spherical bearing tops Not sure about rebuilding, but if it can be done it wont be cheap...

Bump Both amps for sale now, same price on each

Get the Whiteline castor bushes from the groupbuy, or they make an adjustable rod aswell, with bushes, not spherical bearings. Steering spacer can be bought off a guy on here, NV_N01, $30 if I remember right, but PM him and get the proper price.

Hey Ric If you really need it gone, I can organize to get it sent interstate for ya. When I sent mine off it was $80 to VIC (or NSW, cant remember now), including up to $1000 insurance (I figured bars are a bit fragile). PM me if you're keen

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

I would be going with increased castor, helps a lot and the wheel self centres faster

People say pillowball mounts are good because all the Japanese stuff comes with em. When new, they will provide a bee's dick of an improvement in handling, once worn (doesn't take long to wear) they will be knocking like crazy and be worse than bushes. Camber tops that have adjustment will do nothing on double wishbone suspension cars, the upper and lower control arms are what control the camber. My exhaust is off a GTR, so yes a 2dr exhuast will fit, I think they're a tiny bit shorter though, not enough to worry about, mine fits fine. Well I've got the GTR front bar on my car, so I'm gonna say it fits Nah, it doesn't line up perfectly with the guards, so it bulges a bit at the front, and you need a GTR reo or to cut yours up. If you want to do it all properly, you'd need GTR guards and GTR indicators. Might need headlights aswell, but I'm not too sure

4dr R32 GTS-t Suspension: Bilstein B6 shocks, converted to coilovers with 7/5 kg/mm Eibach springs, all organised by SK. Whiteline 27/24mm swaybars, random jap adjustable front upper arms, Tein castor rods, Whiteline rear camber bushes, alloy subframe bushes, Apexi front strut brace. Exhaust: HKS superdrager 3" catback, 3" front/dump pipe. Body: Genuine GTR front bar and factory option sideskirts.

If you want to get rid of it, I've got a hicas lock kit for sale.

Got GTR reo, still after 4dr rear pods or anything like that

18" Kumhos sold

Quite responsive, wont get you to 300rwhp (225rwkw) though. More in the range of 200rwkw. How well did you search? There are some pretty good threads regarding this

I assume you're talking about rear. Rear suspension is same as R33/R34 for S15. Each camber kit offers +/-0.75deg camber, so with 2 you can get rid of 1.5deg camber. I'm not too sure how S15 guards are cut compared to skyline ones, but for skylines 1 camber kit is enough to get rid of the camber for that height. As far as I know, the castor bushes are the same as R33/R34 too, but someone will need to confirm that...

You can also try stiffening up the rear shocks

Yeah, that's what I did, added more weld on the inside of it. Shouldn't break off now I actually split the bracket in half though, so reattaching wouldn't be the best. Are they fine to just reweld back on if they come off cleanly?

Ah, too late, just got the another R32 subframe. Just the subframe itself, no arms arms, hubs or anything. Full-Race Geoff, can I ask what is better about the S14 subframe? I wanted to find a hicas subframe though cos I'm cheap and didn't want to buy toe arms Already have hicas locked, so it's not a problem

Hi I've got 4 door R32, and I've just done GTR front bar and 4 door sideskirts (genuine Nissan stuff). I dont have anything for the rear at the moment and it looks a little odd. I was gonna get 2 door rear pods, but after a bit of searching, I've found that they dont fit. What I'm asking is, what do you other guys do about it? I've seen some pods on R32 4 doors, but I just need to know what to get and where I could get them from. This style would be awesome Even fibre glass copies

Updated

There is plenty of info available on the KKR turbos on here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hlite=%2BKKR%2A

I was recently out at Mallala and I came out of turn 2 and then everything went to crap. Turns out I broke one of the lower control arm mounts on the rear subframe Dunno how it happenened, I didn't clip the ripple strip or hit anything? Anyway, the car is an R32 GTS-t, and I was just wondering what other subframes I can get so that everything will bolt up. I currently have access to an S14 subframe, but I heard the R32 diff doesn't bolt up to them properly. Also have access to another R32 subframe (for free), but it has "a small stress mark" on it. I havn't looked at it yet, but would any sort of mark on the subframe be something to avoid? Cheers