salad

17" tyres picked up today

Wow, your guards look surprisingly good in photos When are you painting it? Hurry up and do it, looks cool

Personally I hate them. I borrowed them off a mate cos he had em out to go through regency and I was waiting for new coilovers cos mine were blown. There wasn't too much difference between by blown Tanabes and the HSDs. This has been my experience with them anyway. Shocks are something that require a lot of R&D and you just cant do this when selling a full set of coilovers for bugger all. I would recommend Sydneykid's groupbuy once the shocks come back into stock. The ride is so so comfortable and handling is really good. To quote Sydneykid himself

P1s are sick... Hyper gold on silver looks good Nice and light too

Tyres sold pending pickup/payment Any offers on the rest?

You're thinkin of the front. R32 GTS-t/Z32 = 280x30 R32 GTR = 296x32 (non Brembo) R33 GTS-t = 296x30 (same calipers as R32 GTR though) All of them are alloy, S14/S15 had cast iron front calipers. For all of those brakes though, the rear calipers are the same

GTS-t rear brakes are the same as GTR (non V-spec), except rotors aren't cross drilled. GTR has lighter hubs though. There is nothing wrong with the hicas subframes I think by traction arms you mean toe arms. Traction arms are at the front at 45deg to the drive shafts. I'm not too sure how strong the non hicas subframe is as there is aftermarket bracing made for it. Also if you get camber adjustment, you also need aftermarket toe arms/adjustment to adjust things properly, there isn't too much adjustment in the stock arms

Yeah, not a good idea. The air from the radiator will be heated as it passes through and then this is the air that will have to cooler your compressed air. Your water will be hotter than your compressed air so it is a good idea to have to cooler one in front, as heat transfer via convection is propotional to the difference in temperature

As long as you get tyres that are the same very similar rolling diameter, you will be fine. Dont forget that new tyres come with 8mm tread. So there is potentially 16mm difference in rolling diameter when you buy a pair of new front tyres. That is less than the difference between a 235/45R17 and a 245/40R17. But getting the same size tyres all round would probly be a better idea. Buy those wheels and give me your old wheels

No, they are different

HUGE difference I went from VLSD to 1.5way and yeah, completely different car to drive

I'd say it is true. Sydneykid is a VERY reliable source. You will just have idle problems which will probly be a bitch, but if you can get it to idle, very lumpy and power gains in the mid-high region

I've got the same noises from my 1.5way mechanical. If it is a mechanical, it's completely normal. Sounds like something is rooted, but it's fine

Spring force are proportional to displacement. Preload is giving an initial displacement of less than it's free height, so it's giving a force on the spring before the weight of the car is on it. Preload adjustment is the spring seat adjustment. The effect of preload is nothing as far as I'm concerned in a car as you need an incredible amount of preload before it still has some preload when the weight of the car is on it. I.e. If there is sufficient preload, it will take the whole weight of the car and more before the actual loads negate the preload and cause the spring to be linear Sorry for the crappy explaination, bit tired right now...

You are talking about base height adjustment. Those should also have preload adjustment. I have never seen any coilovers that have had only base height adjustment, always preload aswell

Does that mean an R32 gts-t ECU would be a decent upgrade for A31? (for safety's sake) I know they run A31s cos my friend borrowed my remapped ECU

18s sold pending payment The tyres off them are up for sale now

I also remember the camshafts being slightly different. A31 afm also has the Z32 afm plug. Z32 plugs straight in

If you wind the spring seats up, the spring gets compressed. If you have helper springs, the helper crushes and the main spring doesnt. I can't really see how it doesn't. Care to have some fun in MS paint? Or are you talking about base height adjusment?

Image B is correct. Lower the circlip one more groove on the side that is a bit higher to even out the heights.

Yes, lower the circlip one more groove. Bumpstop should be inside the dustcover and it rests at the top.

Umm.. spring seat going down means the car is getting lower. Sping seat going up raises the car. The height change is not proportional once the spring is trapped and you are compressing it. If you wind the spring seats up far enough, you do start compressing the spring and giving it preload.

That would effectively make the offset +25 on the front and +20 on the back. It depends on how much camber you run to clear the guards. You said your car is lowered 40mm. If you havn't corrected this, you should have about 1.5deg? With that, you should just clear the guards, will probly need to lip them though, and maybe a little bit of flaring. On the front they should fit, once again, might need to lip them. Shouldn't have to do any flaring though.

Yep, S13/A31/R32 all the same. Here's my guide on how to lock hicas properly

Just dont go that fast... S's are good for learning, and turn 3 and turn 5 (round the back) are nice and easy. Start going that fast when you are comfortable with it. You gotta do it eventually, may as well get the first time over with and start gettin better