Pops

hippy , the brushes at the top have a bolt , just loosen it off and you can move the brushes in and out . Remember the window is curved so make sure its not too tight when the window is up as this is where it gets tight .

Just wondering if you wrapped it with thermal tape before you put it in ?

dan_the_man Prepsol will get silicon off , not sure about on tinted windows tho , but its used to prep paintwork . I just recently had my door trims off to fix my door locks after having central locking hooked up to the alarm (they left a retaining hook unattached ) . I thought I'd have a look at the clunky windows while it was all off . Once the door trims are off , peel back the plastic so you can see inside the door cavity . I found that adjusting the two top brushes eliminated the wobble in the windows . Also the window was coming down unevenly . There is an adjusting rail right in the middle of the door . It has 2 6mm nuts about 20cm apart u need to undo . Play around with this until you work out the right way to move it to make the window go up and down evenly . Worked for me .

Best thing to do Gianni is email flying finn and finding out about the flanges , the top photo shows no flanges but the other photo's where the prices are show it with flanges .

I had my car dynoed just for fun because it only cost me $40 . Made 130rwkw on a 30 degree + day . Dont know what mode it was in , and the car is stock except for a 3" mandrel bent cat back . Whenever my car "starts feeling slow" , I go take my mums daewoo for a spin . The skyline is heaven on earth after that torture

lol .....maths lesson

I've really got to get myself some redline , this crunching is driving me mental . T0nyGTSt , you should be a salesman mate , after reading your posts I cant resist

Try reading this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...s=&threadid=408

I'm pretty sure the manual says 2.8L for a r33 . I filled my box to till it came out of the filler hole and that took 3.6 L , but after looking in the manual I drained it back to 2.8 L

Grrr I hate conflicting replies Just joking , thanks for the replies .

Thanks Pawley nice info .

Why not split the difference and go 225 all round ?

Does anyone know what the torque setting is for a rb25det , I wanna re-gap my plugs but need to know this first . Thanks in advance .

Thanks BigDatto I'll check it out .

Yes rs73 ugly isnt it , it has to go . Steve , I'll probably go with the heat wrap , just looking into a combined front/dump pipe and 3" cat , probably best to do them at the same time .

Thats what I was asking , wether or not it was original . I am getting a front/dump pipe as soon as possible .

G'day all , I was under my R33 checking out the exhaust to see exactly what I had under there and noticed that the dump and front pipe had some heat shieldind which looked like 2 piece mild/galvanised steel filled with a fibre galss packing . Does anyone know if this is the original heat shielding which came from the factory ? My cat back exhaust starts at 3" and increases to 3.5" after the first muffler . The dump and front pipe seem to be around 2.5" same as my cat . I'm just trying to see what I've got so I can finish off my exhaust e.g putting in a 3" front/dump pipe and 3"cat .

G'day all , I've added the Nulon G70 , a 125mL tube of it and yes it does help with smoothing out gear changes . Personally I think if you can afford the Redline oil then get it . For those on a tighter budget $14.50 for a tube of Nulon G70 may do the trick . Also I read my owners manual and it does look as if its 2.8L for the manual g/box in a r33 RB25DET so I also adjusted the fill level . So after adding the Nulon G70 I noticed a smoother shift right away , still not what I'd call a slick shift but no more crunching .

51Jay , I changed the g/box oil in my R33 , it took 3.5L to fill it so that it dribbled out of the filling hole on the side . Seems this is the method most people use to fill their g/box , if your figure of 2.8L for the RB25DET is correct then a lot of people are overfilling their boxes . I hope we dont all start popping seals . I filled my box with Castrol VMX80 and it didnt get rid of the annoying rough shift . So I bought some Nulon G70 Manual Gearbox Treatment which is an additive which claims to provide smoother gear changes , reduce noise and wear . I'll post back here with any info after I try this stuff for those with a similar problem as there seems to be a few .

I'm also interested in getting a 1 piece dump/front pipe ansd a 3" maybe 3.5" cat to finish off my exhaust . If you guys who know where to get these could you post links/details . Everyone likes to save a bit of cash but does it sacrifice a bit of quality in the process ?

I changed my g/box oil yesterday , I used Castrol VMX80 , seems to have helped but not cured it entirely . The redline oil is next on my list . It really looks like if you have this crunching problem in your gearbox , it may be a good idea to go straight for the Redline shockproof oil . Damn those g/box drain and filler plugs were soooo tight had to put a 3 foot pipe on the end of my ratchet to get them off . Has anyone heard of any sort of g/box additive that could help this problem ? Just a thought . I should've gone the Redline straight up , ahh well we live and learn !

Ive seen that keys for the gtst can be bought for $35 /pair , nice looking goldish in colour , I was looking for the URL but I reformatted last night . I'll try to locate them .

I have the same problem , car has now done 56,000kms and is due for a g/box oil change . I jacked both sides of the car (with poxy car jack grr) put car stands under them went to the shed to get 1/2" drive ratchet to undo the drain plugs , couldnt find it DOH ! I bought some VMX80 Castrol oil to go in as others have had good results with it . If it doesnt solve the problem i'll look for the redline oil .

I have a 3.5" from the turbo back , I was also wondering about that second muffler in there as my exhaust is quiet as a mouse (not necessarily a bad thing), maybe a touch too quiet . That damn cat they put in when it was complied looks to be about 2.5" looks shonky . Am now considering a cat to suit the rest of the system and possibly taking that second muffler out .

Usually I drive "off boost" for a few minutes before I know I'm going to shut it down then Ijust let it idle for 1-2 mins . If I havnt had that "off boost" time then I'll leave it idling for a couple more minutes . Unfortunately my HKS TT got pinched somewhere between Japan and Sydney hehe .