b2barker

I have had my R33 for 3.5 years and this missing over 4500rpm has got progressively worse. I took out the coil packs over Chrissy and all 6 had the hairline cracks. Applied the araldite, allowed to dry and refitted and... No miss, perfectly smooth to redline. I am loving my car again, and I wondering why I didn't extract the digit earlier. $13 and an hours effort and it's all good. Now I am ready for manual boost controller and probably AFC fitting. Very happy and many thanks to the previous posters of what is IMHO the most helpful thread on SAU.

I am member but sharing arctiles would put my account at risk. It is worth the $30 a year for an article every day. They put one on a Galant VR4. It dropped off full boost a bit but this was probaly to size of the turbo was too small for that boost.

New article on this unit on Autospeed today Summary: "Anything that allows you to control boost pressure for around AUD$30 is a winning product."

My understanding is the torque split is calculated by the value of some accelerometers. If you adjust the signals from these you can control torque split. Autospeed had a article on doing this with some Op-amps and pots. If you are electronically minded you could do it for <$20.

Not bad but this is better

No name, but you end up getting the first available bloke anyway.

After a address change debarcle that meant my car was not registered for the last six months, I took it over the pits today. Big crunching noise as I drove over the pit, as the muffler scapes on 75mm high block. The car is meant to be 100mm above the ground but is well below that (around 70mm). The bloke pokes around, says it's too low, points out a coilover is scraping a tyre. He then goes inside, does some paperwork and gives me the forms. PASSED. Ignored the height, non standard wheels and pod filter, and passed it first time anyway. Woo hoo.

Many speeding, 1 stop sign, 1 red light, loss of license on demerits and the driving without a license and driving an unreg vehicle. All when I was young (>10 years ago). 1 speeding ticket in last 5 years, and none in the 2.5 years I have had a Skyline. I learnt my lesson.

What about a RB25 or RB26 DOHC variable timing head on your RB30, and turbo. Mmmm RB30DET

Is the power gained greater than the extra load put on the alternator?

1) If you have a top mount (WRX) or front mount close to radiator you would get heat soak. In a stock GTST side mount cooler, I wouldn't have thought you would get much as it outside of the engine bay. 2) As others mentioned its the evaporation that does most of the cooling. The evap is aided by air flow. Unless it very windy or you have a fan, it won't cool much when you are stationary, but if you wet it stationary it will cool once you take off. 3) The system talked about here sprays on boost (pressure switch triggered) and for short time after so it wouldn't help a cooler heat soaking at the lights. 4) When you are @ the lights you are off boost (unless your packing some anti-lag). Your cooler would cool from the inside, ie. ambient temp air goes into the cooler, and comes out hotter if you cooler is already hotter than ambient. Water has a higher latent heat of evaporation than metho, ie. it absorbs more heat when it evaporates. However metho evaps at a lower temp/pressure though so it evaporates more. Metho/water mixes are more effective in water injection systems than straight water. I wouldn't be spraying combustables around my engine bay though. If you were going to spray your cooler I would look at a temp triggered spray rather than pressure switch triggered, like the one at the Autospeed shop. Water injection is a better option if you ask me.

IMHO cooler sprays are a waste of time on a street car. In short bursts coolers work more like heat sinks than heat exchangers. That is, they absorb heat on boost and return this heat back to charge air off boost without actually radiating it to air. There isn't enough time to heat the cooler right through unless going hard for long periods. This is different to a track/race car which is on boost most of the time, which has good cause for a spray. Also most of the effectiveness of the spray is from evaporation (hence the fine mist), so they are rendered useless in high humidity eg. BrisVegas. In BrisVegas a home ducted evaporative air conditioner would be better described as a fan.

Am I the idiot for not believing there is boost sensor connected to ECU, or are talking about dancing banana boy and his pointless post?

No, in a R33 there is no boost pressure sensor that connects to the ECU. There is one that connects directly to the boost gauge. The R33 works off air flow. Too much air flow for a given RPM, throttle pos = Over Boost Protection I have the same issue in my R33. Consult logging has shown the AFM is maxing out which it should not be doing with only filter/exhaust mods and stockish boost.

The ground to the AFM is switched off the ECCS relay, and connected to the CAS sensor and the ECU on multiple pins. I am unsure what other things may be affected by wiring another ground in parallel. Personally I would want to disconect the existing ground first. See atached schematic.