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My car with Tein NA suspension has 325 front and rear. I just download the manual for Tein NA. It says the standard is font 376 and rear 363. I think mine is too low...

I have found these wheels for sale from ebay. But not sure they fit my R33 GTS-T. Any idea? 8JX16 H2 ET62 MERCEDES BENZ ALLOY WHEELS X FOUR, FROM A 1998 ML320.REMOVEABLE CENTRE CAPS, NO!SCUFFS,NO!DENTS,NO!CRACKS IMMACULATE

Sorry, I want the wheels with resonable condition tyres. Some scratch doesn't matter.

Hi, I want to buy a set of stock wheels with tyres to suit my R33 GTS-T. If you want to sell yours, pm me please.

Any one know how to adjust the height of Tein NA Damper? I think my car is too low. It has something called "C RING TYPE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT MECHANISM". picture can be seen from: http://www.tein.co.jp/nadampe.html Thanks!

How's the wheels look like? what size are they? Can it fit to R33 GTS-T? send picture to me please.

check your pm, please!

I have quote the parts price in autospeed.com.au. Basically, the parts price is similar with the price that I quote before. What makes $880 so expensive is the labour and alignment... The align+labour is around $420.

Thanks, I have some extra information: The brand that I quote is SuperPro. My suspension is Tein NA (not coil over but can adjust the height for a bit). He said that the front is too low, he will raise the front a little bit for me as well. And the parts cost me $460. (front caster kit, bushes for the front and rear camber kit) And he charges me 5 hours labour ($66 x5 = 330) + 4 wheel alignment($88).

What is the different between camber kit and caster kit? I've been told that I need to replace the caster kit in the front and camber kit at the rear and the bush in the front. It quote $880 inclue parts, labour and wheel alignment. How's it sound? Why only camber kit at the front and only caster kit at the rear? Are the kits include bushes? Thanks!

Increase the boost is very important. You can feel big different if you increase your boost to 10-12psi from standard 7psi.

Is the price from GCG only for high flowing the turbo? What about the labour for take the turbo out and put it back in? If not how much is it going to cost? Thanks!

sorry, 255/40/R17 for rear. It's typo.

Just purchase my R33 GTS-T 2 months ago. At that time the front tyres are ok. And 2-3 weeks ago I check them again and they are just above the legal limit. Today I check them again. There are no thread on the outside of left side tyre. The right side tyre is better, but is under the legal limit. The car come with Tein NA adjustable suspension (not height adustable) and tyres are 235/45R17 front, 255/20R17 rear. Any comment? Do you guys have any experience about this? Can we get a correct alignment with the after market lowered suspension? p.s. Only drive 3000km in this 2 months. Thanks

Hi Sydneykid, I found the price for High flow Turbo from the GCG web page. It's more than 2k. They have two stages. XTRGTST-STG1 450hp rated $2250.00 XTRGTST-STG2 500hp rated $2450.00 Where can you can it under 2k? Through some dealers? Thanks!

Yes, maybe the clutch adjustment problem. Everytime when I change gears, I will depress the clutch pedal all the way down. But, I only need to release it a little bit and the clutch start to engage.(car start to move) And I found that the clutch fluid level is in the middle of the "max" and "min" mark. Should I put more clutch fluid in it? And what sort of fluid should I use to top up? Can it mix with different brands? Or should I change all the fluid? if so, how to do it? Thanks!

I am not sure. But, before I change the oil. I have diffcult to change to 2nd gear when it's cold. And it is quite smooth when it's warm. But, now even when it's warm, I can feel crunches when I change to 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. (filled ~3.5-3.6L)

When I set the boost more than 0.7bar. I will have the poping sound/misfire. And this only start happen at around 4500rpm to 5000 rpm. After 5000rpm or before ~4500rpm, it runs well, even with 0.85bar boost.

My car has the same problem. It is setting at 0.7bar now. Anything more than that will have popping sound/ misfire. I have already re-gap my spark plugs to 0.8mm from 1.1mm. And they are platinum plugs. (before re-gap them, I can't boost anything over 0.5bar (stock boost I think) Will the after-market computer solve this problem. I want to boost it to 0.8 or 0.85 bar and should get better fuel economy by the new computer.

Yes, it's red. And also smell like auto trans oil. It's same smell as the auto trans oil in my friend's car (automatic laser).

I have put another 0.4L into the gearbox. Now is totally 3.6L. I feel slightly better. But, still not too good. I will see how it goes after 1000km. Is there any problem with the previous oil. I think it is auto trans oil. Thanks!

I have about 0.5L left. So, I have put about 3.2L. I will try to fill it become 3.6L today. Thanks!

Just put the lightweight shockproof redline oil into my gearbox today. Now I can easily change to 2nd gear when the car is cold. But, I feel crunches for 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, even when the car is warm. I think that it's worser than before. The crunches is absolutly noticeable. The old oil that drain out from the gearbox is something like auto transmission oil. What happen to my gearbox that react with the redline oil like this? any ideas? :shake:

I am thinking to buy another wheels and tyres for track use. Can Commodore or Falcon's wheels fit to R33 GTS-T? :shake:

I am just thinking that my clutch has some problem. Everytime when I change gears, I will depress the clutch pedal all the way down. But, I only need to release it a little bit and the clutch start to engage.(car start to move) And I found that the clutch fluid level is in the middle of the "max" and "min" mark. Should I put more clutch fluid in it? And what sort of fluid should I use to top up? Can it mix with different brands? Or should I change all the fluid? if so, how to do it? Thanks!