JNR24

Thanx Sly33! anypics of the 044 in the standard bracket, with the hose clamps? Cheers, Trev

Hi Peoples, Just a quick question: Can you mount a 044 intank? if so has anyone got pics, or a quick "how-to"? Cheers, Trev

Bump? Anyone know if the current RB25 Fork will be strong enough to hold the triple plate clutch? Cheers Trev

As HRthirtyone said you car is fine. That moisture is caused because your exhaust is cold and when you start you car, Then istantly you apply 400DC heat to you exhaust headers. Just over half way down your exhaust is the perfect environment for condensation to take place. Then of course you exhaust gases push the condensation all the way out your exhaust until it heats up and evaperates. Signs of a blown head gasket: 1. Water in the oil: When you pull your dipstick out there is a grey mouldy looking oil at the top of the oil level. (This same oil may also be spotted in the top of the head, just under the oil filler cap.) 2. Bubbeling coolent. Caused by escaping coolent into the motor. 3. Varying/leaking compression on clylinders. (Doesnt allways mean that you blown a gasket, but a good way to tell if something is wrong. e.g worn/broken piston rings) There are other ways to test if you have a blown head gasket, but these are your main types. Cheers Trev

Thanks Leewah, By the way was the clutch noisy? In terms of the clutchs rattleing around? Also im not sure if you will be able to ansaw this, but: I have bought the Triple plate of a R32 GTR (RB26), and the clutch will be fitted to a RB30 Crank. (It doesnt quite fit, needs about .50MM machined of the crank were the pressure plate fits.) Anyhow, i am using a stock RB25 tranny. Now because the clutch has a double diaphragm, i think it would be pretty heavy on the fork inside the box, is it nessacery to strengthen this? also will i have to machine anything on the inside of the box (e.g snout?) or should the clutch fit straight on? Cheers, Trev

Hey guys, Just woundering...Has anyone got a OS Giken Triple plate? What are they like to drive around? when i pulled the clutch apart i noticed that none of the clutch plates had springs. But do the 3 plates compensate for having no springs? Am i going to have driveline problems? Is it a ON/OFF clutch? Any comments welcome. Cheers, Trev

Ball Bearing turbos dont like compressor surge at all, as there is less contact area between the shaft and the Core of the turbo, compared to a bushed turbo (T03s-T04s) that has 100% contact at all times. A mate of mine is a die-hard VLT fan, and loves the High-pitch sqeelch of compressor surge "AKA Cooler noise" that echos for a couple of blocks. He also loves GT series turbos (GT40s) witch happen to be ball bearing turbos. He has learnt this lesson the expensive way by, having to replace 2 GT40 Cores (And still counting) and spending over $2400 on new cores. Due to the turbo failing under excisive compressor surge. (@30PSI+) Obviously you cant argue the fact that Nissan has spent millions of dollars on R&D and thought that a B.O.V would be benificial. And they are! They increase spool times, decrease's (Yes, even cars with BOVs fitted will still surge slightly) compressor surge, and some people that have them ATMO Vented like the PSHH sound. Bottem line: You cant improve on factory (Nissan put a BOV there because there reasearch & dev team thought that it would benifit the motors: reliabilty, performance or durability) . Use logic, anything over 15PSI i would be making sure i had a BOV. my 2c

I got my 320KMPH Nismo cluster for my R33 for $350. And its got 50,000KMS on it. & is in MINT condition. i got it on ebay, through the seller www.cityjapparts.com There in adelaide.. Really bad service, dont speak very good english, dont return calls, and took ages to get here. (melb) This is just my expirence with them. Other people have delt with them with no problems.. Maybe i just have bad luck.. Good luck !

Sorry, dude... I was looking at just the intercooler prices, not the kits. My mistake... ( I think they have put there prices up aswell.) Not sure about labour $$??

agreed! i Paid $600 for my hybrid B&P, 600X300X76?? Awsome cooler.... Very Effieceint, (allmost no pressure drop) and the plenum side of the cooler was allways cool.

BAHAHAHAHHA "block twisting up"....! :whackit: How the f**k does a block "Twist up" ?? Why arent these blocks "twisting" on 9 & 8 sec VLs...?? tell him to check out the top 10 cars (Street drags) for calder-park racway. EVERY ONE = Holden VL RB30, Hodlen VL RB30..... some ppl have no idear.

I thought the standard springs are rated at around 44PSI anyways arent they? I got the workshop manual at home, il check that tonight. im pretty sure that the pressure is in the 40PSI mark.

Yeh, but what im saying is if you physicaly move the valve further up, wouldnt that create more tension on the spring creating a harder seat.?? cheers, trev

like this? cam rotates, cam lobes compress springs, valve drops, cam lobe passes, spring uncompresses, valve seats??

Hmmmm, wouldnt it work the other way round? higher the valve the more pressure the valve upon its seat? As the valve falls into the CC via the lobe on the cam compressing the top of the valve spring? I might attempt a paint drawing *puts L plates up"

Steve im with you on this one, Where did this HP Figure come from? and wheres the weakest link, to prove that standard RB25 Valves drop off at around the 300RWKW mark? In that webpage that Joel posted, he mentioned "Why Valves Fail". Under there, he explaines why exhaust valves fail more than intake etc. What i found more intresting was the 3 main reasons valves will fail: (Quoted from his page) These are Directly related to the head. (There are other reasons like engine cooling etc. 1. A buildup of deposits on the valve face and seat can have an insulating effect that slows cooling and makes the valve run hot. So too can poor contact between the valve and seat if the seat is too narrow, nonconcentric or off-square. If deposits build up in one spot or flake off in another, it can allow leaks that create hot spots on the valve and result in "channeling". 2. Weak springs or insufficient valve lash can also prevent good valve-to-seat contact and allow excessive heat to build up in the valves. A loose seat or poorly fitting guide can also hinder heat transfer to the head and contribute to burning. 3. Valve recession can cause the same kind of problem. As the seats wear away and the valves recede into the head, valvelash is lost. Eventually there’s little or no lash left and the valve makes poor contact with the seat, overheats and burns. Reason 1. He is making refrence to Carbon deposites on the valve face, creating a insulating barrier, causeing the valve to overheat & burn out. Cause: Bad tuning, Rich fuel mixtures, poor fuel octane, cold spark, etc. Reason 2. Weak springs and dodgey seats, pretty self explanatory. If you springs arent heavy enough your valves wont seat properly, or quick enough. Either causeing the piston to start touching your valves (On highly advanced timed motors & long duration & Lift cams) Cause: Springs not having the correct pressure rating for your application, This falls under the initial build, if its not built properly, its going to fail. Reason 3. This reason wouldnt really apply to any of us, mainly because were actualy building the head and hopefully you guys are going to at least replace the seats & guides (Dont forget to get some heavier springs) when you put it on the new motor. But once again this comes down to the initial build of the head. All his reasons, (Go through his page) are related to either the initial build of the head (Having it correctly setup the first time) or tuning. Not once did he make refrence to Valve metal density or valves failing on a MD vs RPM?. There are alot of other factors as well as to why they will fail on that page but they seem to be relevant to how the valves are lined up, Stem geometry, engine cooling etc. Make sure your head is %100 including all the Valves, take it somewhere respectable. Put some heaveir springs in. Make sure your cars tuned properly. And you should have no problems. m2c

Seems strange. Somehow i dont think MattR's Valve snaped becuase he is generating XXX Amount of RWKWs. To snap a valve with ONLY combustion & cam pressure, without detenation and abnormal cylinder tempretures would be allmost impossable. ( know of 2 VLs running RB25s (Standard head) producing well over 330RWKWS.) Once again it all comes down to tuning... Right computer, right timing, write air, write fuel = No probs. Its only when one of these components are pushed to its limits, is where you start to run into problems.

Neither have i!?? i can understand that the factory standard cam & valve setup may only be good for 300RWKW... but i couldnt imagine a solid single piece constructed valve, snapping or dropping off into the combustion chamber. my 2cs

What do you mean by "Valves drop off"?. Cheers, Trev

You dont need to make up all your compression with your piston. I am running Arias RB30 Turbo pistons, with RB25 head and strengthend standard RB30 bottem end... BUT i am shaving the head and the block to acheive a higher compression ratio. Should be up around the 8.7:1 (According to Motor Improvments in St.kilda)

Bump

Hi guys, Im posting this on behalf of a freind. He has recently blown his turbo, and is need of a replacement. Looking to pay around the $350 mark. PLEASE DO NOT POST REPLYS HERE, OR PM ME ABOUT THIS. Please pick up the phone and give him a call. 0412774215 52841577 His name is Tony & his in melbourne. Cheers, Trev

Thicker gasket would do nothing dude... They would go deep enough to bust every valve in your head. No recovery...

hmmm... not sure... give em a quick call.. (@ work and cant measure it)

Thanks Ronin 09, Sorry to jump off topic, I am running a "cut & shut" RB26/25 intake manifold, (il post some pics later) would that type of setup cost more, than say the standard RB25 Intake setup? Or will they be about the same? Also will the price inlcude silicon joiners & clamps?