gillies2001

Hi there. At present i have 2 x R32 skylines a GTR and a GTST, both nice cars, both fun to drive. I thought that a 350GT could be a good upgrade model for the good old 32's. After searching the net i found a nice 2003 350GT premium, brembos, 6 speed manual, at an import dealer. I went to check it out yesterday, and what a great looking car it was, perfect condition, like new, all first class, UNTIL I DROVE IT. What a disappointment, it felt very unsporty, almost boring, non of that RB zing that i have been used too, just a noise. I thought the V6 would be very smooth. Also as has been reported in other forums the interior is below par for a quality nissan product, and those gauges look like something out of a eighties pulsar. When i first saw this car i thought i would buy it, but within about 30 minutes.............. NO WOW FACTOR The character of the old 32 33 34 skylines has been lost. Have any other SAU members had the same letdown or am i just out of touch with the currant nissan products.

Thanks GTSBOY It always did seem like a maze under the inlet manifolds on the RB20DET and RB26DETT until i had the engines out. It now looks a lot more simple and logical to workout which hoses are required to make it all work. And as you said some of those hoses are only needed in very cold climates to stop icing up

Also, would not heating the inlet manifold and the throttle body be an advantage, keeping the inlet air cooler ?

I should have explained as i am doing an engine rebuild, and as all the hoses are over 20 years old and 200,000K, they should be replaced, i thought maybe, just replace the least amount to do the job.

To stop less risk of hose failure, has any body used less cooling system hoses on the RB20DET, ( only for a warm climate) I am thinking of removing the hoses on the inlet manifold, throttle butterfly and the cooling system bleed hoses. ( the cooling system bleeding could be done by jacking the front of the car and bleeding by the radiator cap, which would be the highest point ) The hoses to stay (not removed) are the heater hoses, turbo return hose and radiator hoses Are there any other hoses that could be removed? Any ideas

Has anyone on a RB20DET, deleted some of the small hoses to cut down the chances of hose failure. The ones i am thinking of are the ones that feed the throttle body and the top of the inlet manifold. Also the hoses that feed the bleed fitting ( bleeding the system could be done by jacking up the front of the car and bleeding through radiator cap) Are their any others?

Thanks for the replies On the RB25, Which was supplied first the alloy or the plastic compressor wheel ?

I have 2 R33 GTST turbos, one has a plastic compressor wheel the other a metal compressor wheel. Which is the best one to use on a RB20 and also what is the + and - of each wheel Thanks for any advice.

Thanks Chaddle Yes the actuator rod was too long, formed it for pre tension.. ALL FIXED Thanks again

Hi there I have just fitted a series 1 RB25 turbo to my 89 GTST/4 RB20 Every thing was ok with the RB20 turbo, but now nothing much happens until 4000rpm + The car has a front mount, dump pipe, manual boost control (set at 14lb) When it does come on boost it really goes hard but below 4000rpm its a pig, real laggy The engine is healthy, good compression (about 165lb x 6 ) Also the new turbo is smooth and spins free. I read the forums, and it would appear that lag should not be a problem doing this conversion. Any help would be appreciated

Are R32 GTST brake hoses the same as R33 GTST

Im doing a RB20DET engine freshen up ( rings, bearings, crank collar, oil restrictor) Should the head bolts be replaced with new ones ? Any thoughts please.

Thanks zebra. Can the RB26 mains be used in the RB20/25. Or is their a lube problem?

Could somebody please tell me what the difference is between RB20,Rb25 (7M2394H) and RB26 (7M242BH) ACL RACE main bearings. Will the RB26 mains fit a RB20/25 ? Thanks

I have a spare RB20DET engine and a RB25DET crank and a pair of R33 GTR cams. Will the crank (about 2mm longer stroke) and cams fit into the RB20 engine.(using the standard bore and pistons) Also which rods would work. Any ideas, Please

Hi there. It should be turned over (not turned around) so its flush on the outside of the bell housing. As it is the boot could tare as the fork movement is greater on the outside of the bell housing. Hope this makes sense. Cheers.

I have been told that 8 teeth xxxxxx fits R32 and the Hitachi 23300 20P05 10 teeth fits R33 RB25 Im not sure if this is correct. Maybe as Duncan says '1 size fits all' Any ideas ?

Hi there. If you take the bearings to a bearing supplier they will cross reference the No's This will be the cheapest way and you will probably end up with the same bearings but not in a nissan box, and half the cost. P.S Just make sure its not only your tyres making the noise. Cheers

Hi there. Does anyone know what the difference is between RB20, 25, 26, 30, starter motors (No. of teeth) Thanks

62....... I tried growing up once, but didnt like it !!!

I have an R32 GTR with R34 turbos. The turbos are already fitted with correct oil feed restrictors. I just bolted them on about 2 years ago without any changes. They spin up much quicker (less lag) Im really happy with the mod. The car is much nicer to drive and pulls harder in higher gears. Also its only the N1's that have steel wheels

Yes, the cam belt tensioners . As yours are new i would think its unlikely.

bump

I have an R32 GTR which had a knock about two years ago, at 2000--3500 RPM It sounded pretty bad but hard to believe, turned out to be only the cam belt bearings. Just a thought.