who's next

Thanks guys, I would go with the neo, its 3,000.00 more than the non-neo. I think this guy brings in good parts, i have bought parts from him and so far no problems. So my baby would be out for a few months as i plan to do it like a project car (diff, fmic, suspension etc.) every month i would buy something and put on before the engine goes in, that way i would have a good strong/safe car at the end of the build. would take pics and step by step and post it when she's done. Thanks again

I used this opportunity to tell the wife i might need to change my engine and to convert my car to a project car (as i would like to do everything meaning and build up a good strong car), so i went by a guy who brings in used parts from japan, and told him i was interested in going with the rb25det set up. I had my heart set on the neo rb25det, but he told me that engine is trouble and to go with the rb25det with the ignitor. Now i have been searching on the net to see people's experience with both engines, but i have not seen anything bad about the neo. My thinking for going with the neo is that its a newer engine which should = less miles and its rated at 280hp the same as the rb26dett (without the cost of the rb26). Have any of you guys had a bad experience with the neo? Which one would you suggest neo or non-neo thanks.

will do, thanks again for the help

Ok i would drop it this weekend, i should be able to do that with the engine still in the car right, or do i need to pull out the engine to make life easier?

Need some advice. last weekend i was driving and i saw my oil light flickering and the engine started to sound like a diesel engine, so i parked the car and let it cool down and then checked the oil and it was full, so i went home and did a change of oil and filter, started her up and the problem looked like it was fixed, so i took her for a drive and i noticed that when the temp. reached 1/2 it started to do the same thing. My feeling is that the oil pump is on its way out, so as the engine gets warm the pump starts to shut down. Anyone every had this problem? Am i thinking along the correct line or is there something else wrong with the engine? Any help would be good p.s. its a rb20 single cam engine Thanks

thanks guys would keep it in mind when i am ordering the springs, thanks again

Good day, I am looking at ordering some shocks & springs for my A31 cefiro, My question is do i tell the sales people its for the s13 or the r32, the thing is i would be shipping in these parts so i need the get it right from the start so that i would avoid having to ship back the parts if it does not fit, i would most likely go with some good performance shocks a springs not coilovers. any help would be good thanks

i found these sites, you might be able to contact them for more info. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=139528 http://www.grandprixgroup.com/gpi/magtuned...asp?news_id=769 there is a next one but i cant find it, if i do i would post the address

just for general knowledge my power steering pump was leaking and i had an extra pump from the ca18det engine, i got it to work, all you need to do is change the brackets, that is, use back you brackets from the rb 20 pump. the pump works fine no problems. by the way its the stock rb20e engine in the cefiro, not sure if it would work with othe rb engines

looks good, good luck with the sale

i have not changed the brake booster as yet as the stock a31 is working fine with the 4 piston brakes, the lines were changed, what i did was that i used lines that had one male and one female fitting at the ends, and you would need 2 for each side. so far no problems and the brakes work real good. the only thing they are not steel braided lines they are the regular brake line so they are available in any parts place.

gtrchick i think what you are saying makes sense, here is what i would do, i currently have on the stock master cylinder with the 4 piston brakes, i would look for the bigger master cylinder and put it on and see if it make any difference in performance or if it just reduces the peddle travel before the brake are 100% activated. I would try to do this mod soon and let you guys and girls know, i cant say when as i have to look for a master cylinder thats in good condition, give me a 2 week to try and source one.

thanks to everyone who replied, i took your advice and it worked now i am back on the road and finally getting to use my new 17's to go with the r32 brakes. the problem was that i had the callipers on the wrong side i.e. the nipple was at the bottom and like u guys said it would look like its bleeding good but there was still some air trapped at the top of the calliper. so lastnight i switched them and bled the lines again and she works good. there is some soft feeling and like u said its because i am using the stock master cylinder, so the hunt is on for the r32 master cylinder and booster. thanks again for all the help

hey thanks, this is some good reading/info. thanks again

Sky031 - how would you know which is the left and right side? does the nipple have a correct spot in that it should be on top vs the bottom of the calliper, like what Skypy12 suggested? Huddy - i would try to get the 32gtst set up to see if it helps. Resin - its a A31 non turbo cefiro, i am upgrading the car piece by piece, getting everything ready for when i go rb25det, Ceffy SA - its the same problem that u had, how did u fix it? yeah the lines are different so i changed them to match the r32 callipers. but how did u get rid of your brake problem? Gtrchick - i think you are right, i would upgrade the booster and master cylinder dangerous daveo - no i did not get them rebuilt as they looked like they were in good condition. Thanks for all the suggestions, i would try them till i solve my problem as i like how the brakes look on the car and there is no way i going back to the stock callipers and rotors

yeah i got the disc to go with the callipers, i did not upgrade the master cylinder, i only changed the rubbers in it as everything else looked fine, i have the r33 cylinder which i could use i would just have to get the lines made for it to work, but my thing is why it was working before and when i put on the new brakes i getting this problem i would check for leaks like u suggest thanks

good day, i would like to get some advice. I have a cefiro which i just put on the r32 gtr front brakes, now i have bleed all the lines several times and i am not getting any brakes, the peddle is soft real soft, i even took of the r32 callipers and press them in and put them back and mashed the peddle they work so its not that, i have used about 2 tins in brake fluid to bleed the lines i even replaced the rubbers in the master cylinder and still there is no brakes, not seeing any visible leaks, and i did not have this problem before i changed the brakes, the only issue i had sometimes was the peddle being hard which indicates a bad booster. so i am thinking it might be the booster so i got one from a r33 did not hook it up as yet, another thing i noticed was that when the car is off and u pump the brakes it gets hard and as soon as u start the car it goes soft all the way down to the flooring. any ideas as 2 what might be causing this problem thanks

thanks i think i would try the light sandpaper thanks again

i bought a set of r32 front breaks for my car, the breaks are in good condition but it has some surface rust on the rotor nothing major, its just from not being in use, what i want to know is how do i get it back to its orig. shinny look, do i use a very light sand paper and lightly sand it or should the break pads take care of it for regular driving? any help would be good thanks

thanks man

i am in the process of changing the water pump (rb20e), i have removed the top half of the timing belt cover, and the bolts for the bottom 1/2, so its loose and ready to come out (this is the bottom 1/2 of the timing belt cover) but i cant seem to get it out as it bouncing on some parts of the engine. the next logical step seems to be to remove the main pulley and then cover should come out freely. what i want to know is, is this necessary? i.e removing the main pulley and if so how is it done or is there another way to get the bottom 1/2 of the cover out. thanks

as we are on the topic of power steering, i just wanted to know if the powersteering pump from the ca18det engine/s13 would work on the rb20e engine/a31, it looks the same but i just wanted to confirm this, could anyone help thanks

thanks guys

i want to improve the suspension on the car, i dont want 2 use coilovers (2 stiff) just want a good shock and spring set up that would give the car a lower look and improve the handeling of the car, its not for drifting etc so no need for coilovers, i am going to install the rb25det, keep this in mind when recommending thanks

thanks 4 the help, i was going to get it redrilled to 4 hole. thanks again