Fixxxer
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Posts posted by Fixxxer
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Sorry guys, no elbow.
Fixxxer
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Cheers Kristafa...
Chug chug.... bump
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How about $40, or a carton of Hahn Super Dry's, hehehe...
Fixxxer
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Tinkering is what I'm good at....
I did the mod cause I had time, it didn't cost practically anything, and there is NO possible way the mod can reduce power, it can only aid. As mentioned in previous posts, I have noticed a definite increase in response, part throttle cruise and building boost scenarios, on roads I travel every day. I'm not removing it.....
Next mod - shield the pod filter. It already has a cold air feed blowing directly at it but this should help too.
Fixxxer
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Ok, the drive home, highway plus urban driving (different from my way in).
BTW, pre intercooler pipe as mentioned above was not insulated, I didn't consider it necessary as it gets pretty hot, especially on boost, 12psi probably gets the air to 60 or 70 C.
Results:
Definite gain at low engine speeds, part throttle cruise, and building boost.
Full Boost: Doesn't seem any quicker, although I'd think there would have to be a pretty big gain to notice anything here, unless dyno runs were done.
Car felt perkier/more responsive when cruising and tackling hills in 4th and 5th gear, pulled better from first throttle application and low boost loads (just into positive pressure).
All in all, psi is right (and I'm not the first to do the beer cooler idea), and as other guys have said, this best effect is when air speed is slow for obvious reasons (air has more time to heat up).
Fixxxer
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Yeah, sorry guys, this was never going to be a rigorous analysis of the results, I do not own a temp guage/thermocouple, it was more of a do it, see if it drives better analysis.
Result was much cooler pipes (hand test), on a drive more prone to heat soak (as verified by the hotter air filter intake pipe not insulated).
I don't know how much dyno testing has proved this (but dyno days with Cryo sprays/water spray on intercoolers has), but it's widely suggested that a temp drop of 4 to 5C yields approx. 1% more power.
Either way, the effect of cooler pipes can only be a good thing for power and/or efficiency.
Fixxxer
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Item: R33 Series 2 Turbo (6 blade nylon compressor wheel) - Suit rebuild or Hi-flow
Age: Dunno, about 10??
Condition: Perfect other than it's done a bearing, suit rebuild/hiflow
Price: $50
To Fit: Any RB20, or RB25
Location: Brisbane - pickup only, not worth posting....
Contact: PM or post here, I have photo's, just can't get access from here, will send to an email address if required
Comments: No chips on compressor or turbine, no movement side to side or back to front, it's stuffed a bearing (feels notchy to turn), no oil leaks, never blew smoke. If no one wants it I might take it apart for fun.
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Ok, got some prelim results.
Used about 11 coolers, plus about 30cm of heat shield material from Clark Rubber (around over-engine pipe), about 95% coverage all up.
Today was a cool morning driving to work (city). Lots of idle time/stop start traffic.
Pipes = much cooler
Result = Fair improvement to response (from stop to building boost). Didn't have much time to explore on-boost due to traffic, but didn't see much if any improvement (too much airflow), not on my bum dyno anyways.
*Noted air intake pipe was a lot hotter than usual, this was due to longer idle times (more traffic). I have lots of heat shield material left, so will make a proper airbox for the filter.
Fixxxer
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Yes, quite rightly the insulation will keep heat in, but essentially the only thing heating things up is the radiator and underbonet temps. There is only a small amount of heat getting in from the connections (rubber/silicone) to the metal components (intake manifold). This small amount of heat when driving is negligible, and would be totally supressed by nice cold air out from the intercooler (which it currently does).
I will post back when I do the mod, including telling you guys if this stuff does work (cooler pipes remain cold), and any changes I notice by my bum dyno on response, part throttle and full throttle.
Fixxxer
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I understand the flow characteristics of an engine.
Ohh, and this is on an RB20, 0.8bar.
I'm not so much interested in peak figures, ie.., wide open throttle, but also what it may do at other part openings of the throttle, or response, etc...
It cost me $16.50, and I think it's more than enough, worth a try no doubt?
Fixxxer
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Yes, I've thought about the whole catch on fire thing. Looking at where they will be positioned on the cooler piping, I would guess that underbonnet temp, and the actual temps of the intercooler piping to be less than 100C, which I wouldn't imagine to be anywhere near enough heat to make these things smoke, let alone catch fire.... I was going to trial a few first though, maybe chuck em in the oven at 100C? See if they dry out..... etc....
I'm going to go ahead and buy them anyways, if it fails for whatever reason, I have many coolers to keep my beers cold
Fixxxer.
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The oven mits is autospeed's idea, except theirs looked even dodgier, and cost them $75 for 2 oven mits which was only enough to cover 40cm of pipe. I expect beer coolers to give similar results for way less $$.
Ohh and R31Nismoid - On the autospeed article, the guy got a 7-10 C drop in temps from insulating approx. 40cm of pipe. I'm expecting about 1.0 - 1.2m. I agree that at full throttle the air speed is massive, and temp increase may be smaller, but it can't hurt right?
I'm really looking to improve the on throttle response and pickup throughout the rev range, when air speed is reduced, part throttle, etc...
Fixxxer
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Hey guys,
Had a idea that I got from an autospeed article not long ago.
I have noticed my intercooler piping is 2.5" and I have a FMIC, so the piping runs back across the front of the radiator, then back over the engine. I have touched the piping three times after going for good drives, in coolish weather, and noticed that once the piping gets into the engine bay, it turn HOT, so hot that you can't leave your hand on it for more than 5 seconds, which is bad for performance.
I have also noticed a beer/stubbie cooler would fit almost perfectly over 2.5" piping.
I'm thinking of buying approx. 10-12 of these and shoving them over the cooler pipes, total cost ~20-25 bucks.
Thoughts everyone???
Fixxxer
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Looks ceramic to me.
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I know you've managed to get it off, but anyone else having problems try a ring spanner. I had a rounded/damaged sump plug that was waaaay too tight, the sockets kept turning whenever i put full force on the plug, but for whatever reason a ring spanner worked.
Another tip, (if there is room) shock loading the bolt most always works better than trying to budge it yourself, i.e., use a hammer or small mallet to hit the end of the spanner/ratchet, this is how I've gotten off stupidly tight bolts.
Fixxxer
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Anyone got a spare R33 turbo laying around, think I killed my bearings yesterday.
Prefer Brisbane pickup
PM or reply here.
Fixxxer
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Thanks Bumblebee, ok, hope that's true (it's just the bearings), still means I have to get it off somehow and get it repaired or replaced asap.... I doubt it's even worth repairing, since it'd probably cost a lot more than a 2nd hand r33 turbo, and I'd still have that damn ceramic wheel.
Started her up this morning, no smoke whatsoever, and no noise at idle, but as soon as it starts to spool up it's whirring from around the turbo area.
Thanks again.
Fixxxer
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Thanks for everyones help guys, gonna start her again in the morning before work and see if I can definately pinpoint it as the turbo before taking stuff off the car.
Ohhh, and yeah, it pretty much sounded like that "death whine" when I put my foot down to slightly load the engine, it sounded like a turbo starting to spool up, and then the whining comes along as it spools. I managed to crawl home without it making that noise again, since it was mostly downhill.
Looks like the dreaded ceramic wheel strikes again Fixxxer
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Sorry guys, just let me clarify, "rotor" = my other car, a Mazda rotary. Skyline is my daily driven car.
I don't recall seeing any white smoke (I have dark tint), and didn't notice any when the car was idling at home.
I checked all the joins with a torch and felt around, didn't notice anything odd. I'm leading away from the split pipe thing cause the whirring was/is quite loud, don't think it would make that loud a noise with just a split.
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Hey guys, well I think my turbo has finally let go. I was at a stop, turned right, 1st gear, just starting to build boost (I guess) and a big bang/pop and then a loud whirring noise (thought I had cops behind and had blipped their siren). Managed to limp home about 600m mostly down hill, didn't hear any other things go clang or bang.
Put foot on accelerator at home, and it makes a whirring noise, doesn't seem like I've blown a pipe off.
Anyway to diagnose a stuffed turbo without removing it?? I can take off the inlet pipes, but can't check the exhaust side, don't have the right gear, or know what I'm doing very much.
And just after my rotor won't go into gear (must be clutch master/slave), I've got 2 fricken owwies......
and car-less!Ooops, forgot to mention, 1993 R32 - RB20DET (R33 turbo)
Fixxxer
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You'll also have to remove the ignitor (black box) at the back of the engine to get to the last set of hex screws to get the valley cover off. I wish they made it easier. Also, don't be tempted to unplug the connection from the wiring loom to the coil, I broke two of the plastic clip connectors due to old age/heat.... bugger... I think the only way to replace these is to buy a whole new ignition wiring loom
They still sit in ok but I secured them with some electrical tape just incase.Fixxxer
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You haven't said what type of spark plugs you are using?????
If you are running 1.1mm gap then this is most likely your problem.
Try NGK BKR7E or BCPR6E(S) (or BCPR7E(S) colder plugs), gapped at 0.8mm
Might be the best $24 you've ever spent on your car.
Fixxxer
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Hmmm?? I'm sure my ciggie lighter is the top right hand fuse. It's the one I replaced when I installed my water temp gauge and it worked?
RB20DET - R32.
Fixxxer
Looks like the dreaded ceramic wheel strikes again 
and car-less!
R33 Series 1 Vs 2 Turbos
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
RB25DET all have ceramic turbines.
S1 = steel compressor
S2 = nylon compressor
R34 Turbo = nylon compressor (and slightly bigger OP6 turbine housing)
I've used both the S1 and S2 on my RB20, and the S2 was better to bring on boost, so get the S2 if you can find one.
Fixxxer