ascenion24

not talking about white marks on belt. How the hell was this car running with 2 teeth out on the exhaust? 1 tooth out on the exhaust is practically undriveable

I know about primer, i know how to spray. Just i have never sprayed these pearl colours before and was wondering if its any different to normal spraying. Guess there's no spray painters here huh?

I want to spray my dash surround in a midnight purple. Ive got a gun and done a bit of spraying before, but just acrylics. These are the 3 midnight purples. LP2 (R33)Midnight Purple (no Chromalusion, has 2 pearl tinters Violet & Red) LV4 (R34)Midnight Purple II (Chromalusion Tinter KK760 Absolute Purplene & Vilot Pearl) LXO (R34)Midnight Purple III (Chromalusion Tinter KK700 True Blazberry Prizm & 2 pearls red & Violet) How are these sprayed, can I just get one of these in acrylic, so just mix with thinner and away I go or how are they done? Its only the dash surround I need to spray so not like I have to match panels or anything.

damit! why did they have to be rare/expensive, i was hoping they were cheap peices of crap so i could buy another for cheap.

Bridge the connectors on the consult port and see what error code/s it gives (if any), let us know.

hmmmm, wouldnt it be easier to drill a hole through the new water pump then drill a hole into the block? Guess the gasket wont line up correctly though. Ive got a tap and die set so no worries there. How deep can you drill into the block, scared of going too deep and hitting a gallery or something. Will ring around for a genuine part to see how much I can get it for, would rather do that then drill my block.

So went and got myself a GMP (GPM? something like that) R33 water pump from repco. After bolting it on, i couldnt get that last M6 bolt up the top to go in, after taking the pump off I realized the bolt hole in the pump was off by at least a good few cms... so obviously the wrong pump. Was there different models? whats the deal here if anyone knows. thanks

Considering the velocity of the air traveling through the throttle body and the way the coolant is routed through it (and the amount that flows) I highly doubt it that there is enough heat transfer through the throttle body to raise the air temp any substantial amount. The whole system would of been designed to minimize this. Unless there is dyno proof id say any noticeable gain is a placebo.

Not sure yet, either going to buy one or make one up myself.

Looking to get some spray cans, going to do some touch ups on my car plus possibly spray the front bumper. Would repco/supercrap etc... have my paint code in a spray can (KL0 silver and KM1 grey) If not where would I go? Thanks.

Im going to buy a Z32 ECU to use in my car with nistune. Going for the Z32 instead of the R32 due to being able to keep VCT and also the idle switch issue. Can link the two knock sensors together so you still get to use both instead of just one. Question is, which Z32 can I use. Can i use a NA auto? or does it have to be a TT manual?

dam ive already brought it, do you think it will be ok considering im running stock turbo and only 10psi?

Got one of these gaskets.... http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=6684 Theres 7 pieces in this. The one large gasket with 6 holes and then there is 6 individual gasket pieces for each exhaust port. Now do these individual pieces go on the inside (between the head and larger gasket) or the outside?

I know its a plug, but behind the plug is obviously wires that run to the ecu. This is what I meant buy the cable. Anyways how does the AVCR get the RPM, injector pulsewidth, TPS signal etc... it would have to be wired to the ecu some how wouldnt it? Does anyone know if the APEXI AVCR wires into the consult plug?

I was about to put my car into diagnostics via the consult cable that is apparently suppose to be near the fuse pack, now there is definitely no cable there Is it any other place it can be? Also I have an APEXI AVCR (Came with the car) this outputs a bunch of car info so is it possible they rerouted the consult cable to the APEXI?

Bursons had a permatex one, 35 bucks

Since I had 3 studs on my manifold missing, the yoks/washer/nut have obviously gone missing. The washer and nut is no problem, but what can I use for the yoke? Can I just replace it with a thick washer?

Finally got the turbo and exhaust manifold off. Only took me a couple of hours, I thought that was pretty good considering ive never touched a skyline before. For starters 3 of my studs were already missing and broke another 2... So now I have 5 studs broken and sitting below the head surface! How do I get these outs, would it be easier to call someone? who could I call in the melbourne area. Also what is the best way to clean the gasket surface (talking about head to manifold, manifold to turbo and turbo to dump pipe gasket surface) is 1500 grit sand paper ok? How clean does clean have to be before I put the new gasket on?

Ive never owned a skyline until last week, and never worked on one till tonight. Going to change the exhaust manifold gasket as its leaking, where abouts can I buy this part in melbourne? I would like to pick it up tomorrow if possible. Also while im changing the gasket should there be anything else I should change/check out? Also is it straight forward? Just unbolt everything remove old gasket/clean up put new one back on? No special tools or methods etc? Thanks.

Picked up a R33 gtst on the cheap. Has a blown manifold exhaust gasket so sounds like a tractor at the moment. Thought I better check the compression before replacing the gasket. 138, 140, 140, 145 120, 140.... Didn't get to do anymore test as battery died. Are these results a concern? (Manual says around 15psi allowed, Ive got 25 difference here) Now I'm tossing up between two thoughts here, can pull the engine and rebuild... or should I just replace the gasket and see how long she goes for? Im looking to make power down the road 250rwkw, possibly even closer to 300. Maybe I should just get this car on the road as it is, then when the engine starts to really die do a nice build?

yes thats right, i can get 91 petrol for under 40 cents a litre. from a familys workplace through his business, but im not suppose to get it but its family so he lets me. Now can everyone keep on topic. Obviously it says 95 ron minimum because anything less and it will start to ping/detonate whatever you want to call it. This is because of the timing the standerd computer uses. But if tuned to run on 91 then it wont detonate, so how could it cause damage? fi you dont know anything about this then can you please stay out because this thread is just starting to get crowded with bullshit now.

Not saving 20 a week on fuel, costs 20 dollars to fill the tank up. So saving 50 a week on fuel. Probably a whole lot more depends how much driving I do. And fair enough, i know the arguments, maybe ill buy a V8 instead, still tossing up what to do. How the hell is running 91 fuel going to cause any damage if the car is tuned for it? the only thing running 91 fuel will do if its tuned right is a loss of power, thats it. I was just trying to find out how capable the skyline computer system is in pulling out enough timing to make running 91 safe before a custom comp could be installed to set it up right. Id love to know how running 91 ron with the right tuning could do damage?

Like i said i have my reasons, and i knew someone would stick there nose in and give the whole few cents different spill. Like i said I know this, but heres my reasoning, i can get a full tank of 91 for 20 dollars. So ill be saving like 50 bucks a full tank. So i would rather mod the car, but when it comes to a custom tune ill tune it for 91 fuel. This way i would lose a bit of power, say 250kw instead of 290kw but since its only costing 20 dollars a full tank, who cars!

So they do have a knock sensor? If 91 is run constantly will it just keep the timing back and the car will run fine? I know it will suck but at the moment im just worried about any detonation or other concerns. Also roughly how much power would you lose? 20 kw?

What are 33 gtst designed to run on? 95 ron? If so and 91 is put it, does it automatically pull timing to make the 91 run safe? if so how much power is loss? Is it safe to run 91 all day or should something be done to make it safe? Now I dont want people reaplying bout I should use high octane because i know all this, so dont reply with that, I have my reasons for these questions, so if you dont have answers to these please dont reply. Thank you.