ascenion24

If its a very whitish smoke then chances are its not oil. Hows your coolant level?

lachlanw, that would have to be one of the stupidest comments I've heard in a while. You might as well say, hey I've made all these mods to my car, and it runs fine, but I wont worry about tuning it because theres obviously nothing wrong. I'm sure you were just trying to get your post count up so ill disregard what you said.

First you have to make sure your valves are sealing properly (all valves leak to some degree straight out of the factory) Then you have to block of your inlet and do a leak down style test, if you know your valve only leaks 1%, but your getting a reading of say 5% then the other 4% must be going through the only other leak path, your valve stems. But of course all this means nothing unless you have the factory specs to compare too. I guess different work shops could have different ways of testing this, best to just ring around and see what they say. MBS you said "I'm seeing a SHITLOAD of smoke once I boost up for 2 - 3 seconds, and a shitload if I pump it back to 3rd gear at around 130 - 140KM/H with closed throttle." Is this constantly or only at start up? if its a dodgy valve stem seal after start up all the smoke is burnt away because it can only burn off the oil that could seep through while the car was off, unless you have a massive leak path here but thats rare. It sounds more like a turbo seal possibly? Also the smoke, is it whitish smoke? or a darker bluish colour?

Yeah your right Jonno, apparently its there for fuel saving, the fuel doesn't cut back in till around 2000rpm or so. You can set it lower to round 1200 to save more fuel but apparently if you do this to an auto you get some more problems due to torque converting locking/unlocking. I've found the settings in nistune so going to have a play with it.

Jeez... 20 pages. Why do people always blame the O2 sensor when their fuel economy sucks. It could be literally hundreds of things that affect you fuel economy. If you just start replacing things bit by bit, you could end up spending thousands of dollars on new parts and still not fix the problem. If you have a problem, you need to solve it correctly! not the shotgun approach. And to do this properly, you need the right tools (unfortunately for most) What I would do is firstly get an AFR log done, and actually confirm that the car is running rich, who knows you may have a fuel leak somewhere. If you are indeed running rich then you can start looking into things that could possibly effect fuel economy, could be a leaking injector, dodgy maf, O2 sensor... An AFR log will tell you if its your O2 sensor or not, because once your in open loop mode your O2 sensor is not used, so if your car still runs rich in open loop mode then you can rule out your O2 sensor. Get yourself a copy of the nissan service manual, this will show you how to test sensors, it will give you voltage readings that sensors should be outputting in various conditions and get yourself a multi meter, a $10 one from jaycar is perfectly fine and go to town on the car. If you have a cable to connect the car to the PC I'm pretty sure there is free software you can get to log all the signals, this will be an alternative and probably easier way to see what signals are being feed to your ECU.

22 is the most common size, its 22 on the R33. I took my one out yesterday, brought a special O2 sensor removing socket from total tools for 22 bucks. It looks like a normal deep socket piece but with a chunk taken out for the wire to sit in so you can slot it over the top of the plug easily. I tried to remove the sensor with just a spanner but not enough room, could probably do it if you had one of those short snub spanners.

SargeRX8 ill take the turbo off you Sounds heaps easier compared to trying to bolt my HX35 up

SargeRX8, your obviously not using the standard turbo if your pushing those numbers, do you know whats on it?

I wonder if it looks like this from the factory, I highly doubt it. The ecu would know there is x amount of time before the air it senses at the MAF gets to the cylinders, and its this time delay that would be factored into the ecu for the firing of injectors. The fact that my skyline now has a big front mount, extra piping, its creating extra lag from the MAF to the cylinders, and the injectors are reacting too early. Does anyone know of such a setting in the ECU that can be changed? This is definitely something I would like to fix up.

Thought so, just double checking.

Finally hooked up my Techedge wideband today. At idle it was reading 14.5... good enough for a start. Reving the engine at idle saw it move down between 12 and 13. But if I reved the engine hard, when I released the throttle as soon as the revs start to die the AFR would go extremely lean for about half a second or so. And as it came to idle the AFR would return to normal. Heres a snapshop of the data logging. Is this normal? Im thinking when the engine is revving hard and the throttle is closed, the MAF sensors the less air so it reduces the amount of fuel injected as its designed too. But because theres this big pathway through the intercooler and all that piping, a decent amount of air still gets suck through, but now with no where near enough fuel hence the lean reading.

K-LESS, those things and many many more all contribute to traction, launching, handling... the works. A very good read which is highly recommended from lots of people is from the late Carroll Smith, titled "Tune To Win". Carroll Smith was a race car engineer, he consulted for formula 1 teams, worked with shelby on the GT40. All round extremely intelligent guy. He has a series of books but after reading them all unless your planning on building a race car you can count two of them out as there related to nuts, bolts, metallurgy failure modes etc.... But the one I recommended explains all the basics and sometimes more advanced principles of everything from suspension, load transfers, brakes, shocks, springs and much more. You have to remember, there are so so many factors involved, I am by no means an expert in the field. By just lowering the car your changing your camber. Just by re setting the camber wont remove this issue all together because you have already moved somewhat through your range of motion therefor when the car squats taking off your change in camber will be greater for the same amount of travel then compared to if your suspension was compression from stock height. Theres diagrams that explain all this in the book and they really do help to drive the ideas home. I read through these books for uni as we had to design a race car from scratch to compete in the Formula SAE, but I didn't design the suspension side so my knowledge is limited, (im a powetrain guy) someone could come along right now and explain why a bit of squat is good (and it could be) but unless they have a proper understanding of why, dont listen, always seek out the truth and reasoning behind it first.

So you want your car to "squat" to put more weight over the back wheels when it launches to give more traction? oh god... does anyone here know any better? or is there actually no one here that knows anything about suspension dynamics? The whole reason why the car squats is because of load transfer, this is because forces acting through your CoG makes a torque moment around the pivot point (your tyres and the road) essentially your car acts as a big lever, with the force coming from acceleration G's and although these acceleration forces act on all parts of the car it can be summed up through the cars centre of gravity. What this does (even if your in a go kart with no suspension and no squatting what so ever) it unloads the front tyres and loads up the rear tyres, could be up to 30% load change between front and rears, probably even higher (this depends on wheel base and CoG height). This extra load on the rear is what adds to the traction, this happens even if you replaced your springs with metal rods and your whole suspension was rock solid. (These are the same physics principals that are in action when you fly around a corner and your outside wheels get loaded more and inside become unloaded, Acceleration force is now laterally hence the side to side load transfer as opposed to the longitudinally load transfer when accelerating) Having springs just means this force is being used to compress the springs, so while your springs are compressing you are wasting time, have less load on the tyres and have more chance of spinning the wheels. Having stiffer suspension means the load can transfer to the wheels instantly hence giving better more controlled acceleration off the line. Then you can go into weather you are over powering your tyres or not and setting up suspension to counter act that, but this is still some of the basics of it all and the hole goes much much deeper.... anyways if you want to know more there are many mannnyyy great books out there, I can recommend some if you wish.

if they cut only the insulation then there not making contact with the copper, so they must come into contact and therefor cut the copper wire to some degree. Im guessing you'd have to know the thickness of your insulation to get the right size of those joiny thingos... seems to much of a pain in the ass considering the consequences could be no connection or cut wire.

99 GTT, perfect, actually dont know why I didnt think of that its so obvious... errno, i've seen those before, but im a bit skeptical, what if they cut in too deep, id worry about the wire breaking over time. Thanks guys, off to do some soldering tomorrow and hopefully logging some AFRs

So ive got my wideband controller working on the bench, time to hook it up to the car and get some data logging done. The wideband controller has various inputs for speed, rpm etc... all from the ecu. What I would like to know is, what is the best way to tap into the ecu to get the signal? Im fearing the only way I have is to cut and re solder the wire harness as it comes out of the ECU.

Good point... johnnilicte do you leave your wideband permanently in or once you finished tuning did you put your narrowband back? Also how do i find out what the standard narrowband signal looks like so you could simulate it? or did you wideband controller do all this automatically? I think with the techedge your suppose to plot the points for the wide-narrow conversion (possible file on this already out there but I havnt looked)

Im going to weld in a bung for my techedge wideband O2, was just curious about the best place for this, should I put it somewhere on the dump pipe, or somewhere just before the cat? I could use the original narrowband O2 position and get my wideband to simulate a narrowband signal, but apparently the factory O2 position is too close for a wideband.

Just got back from overseas and back onto finishing off this car, why a manual computer? whats the difference if im putting a nistune board in? or am i missing something here.

baahaha man i feel so stupid! lucky it was cheap cheap! I didnt know that skylines had a separate ecu for the tranny!

I thought the R32 ecu's were direct plug in to an R33. I picked myself up a R32 (auto) ecu, I got the auto because its cheaper and im putting nistune in so it wouldnt matter as manual software would be written to it. Now the plugs are different, heres a pic.... So what am I missing here?

Should I even buy these tyres? Ive been reading non stop on the huge tyre thread here and cant decide. I read some good reviews about these and for that price how can I pass? there going on 17s. Id be happy to spend a bit more if it means ill be getting better tyres.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/255-40-17-FEDERAL-T...=item3357028622 The place is in melbourne so I could probably find out where it is and go check them out, but is this price too good to be true?

My mistake guys!, guess im still learning about this car. Still though, I'd like to know how the car ran with the cam that much out of wack?

So your mechanic, pulled out your radiator, pulled off all your belts, removed the fan, removed the timing belt cover, untensioned your timing belt, slid your camshaft cam over a couple of teeth and put it all back together. Effectively he just did everything he needed to do to replace your timing belt and charged you nothing, what a nice mechanic.