BSK

Hi all just recently i have notice on cold starts or when the car had been sitting for a while a whirring noise comming from the turbo. basically i let the car warm up a little and get rollin when the turbo just comes on boost for the first time it ---whirrrs---- spinning up...... after 3 or 4 little pokes just to get it spinning up it seem to lube something up and its good to go.. is it terminal? or just a sign of a tired turbo... do old turbos need to be warmed/lubed up like this ? Cheers

Ive decided its time to change out my tired old blow_by monster of an RB20 for another Donk of the same variety thats in a little better condition.. Im currently looking around for prices to get someone to do the swap for me, preferably in the osb park - malaga area. so far i have spoken to hyperdrive and ova boost but they seem pretty busy at the moment. can anyone recommend me a few more places to try, to get the job done sooner, before i commit to a later date with someone? thanks in advance!

i got one i may sell... depends if my new eprom doesnt require it. let you know a little later tonite if your interested.

after freeway runs today i noticed it picks up ALOT better shifting down. much happier but still not what i was expecting... ah well.

im using a tomei gauge with a direct connection to its own o2 sensor bunged in at the top of the front pipe. as long as the needle doesnt move to tha right under throttle its all good. at the end of the day the eprom or powerFC in joc's case sorts all that shizen out.

as much as possible. i went for the cheaper r32 for that reason as its my toy to tinker with rather then my show pony.... i try and give everything ago if i have the right tools and equipment or something close enuf. at the end of the day there is always a tow truck and a shop happy to be of assistance...

do you mean when under acceleration it should move over to the richer side bouncing at different values?... reason i ask is when im using my very very rich all round tomei eprom tune under acceleration it just sits right on stoich even when its pushing 1.3bar yet my dyno sheet reads different note the A/F ratio of the second run sitting around 11.6 but my guage was reading 14 constant. but when i change it over to a leaner tuned eprom with a very rich top end you see the needle bouncing all over the rich values hitting 10ish at its peak as it should. my theory is something to do with constantly rich fueling maybe. cos on the second leaner tune the A/F ratio on dyno reads the same as the guage (sorry no pic cos it made less hp) if you havent already, get a dyno done with A/F ratio results then get em to lean it out slightly down low with the powerFC and see if you get the same result as me.

i have just upgraded 2 days ago from a stock dump to a copy split dump with not much of a noticable gain at all. its on a RB20 aswell with a HKS GT2510 and GTR injectors with full 3inch exhaust with 2 straight thru mufflers and no cat at all, not even a pretend one. i was expecting at least a 500rpm faster spool but all i can really notice is that the turbo spools a little more easily maybe smoother is a better word to describe it.... even took it to an exhaust shop for a full once over to make sure i did the job right and there are no leaks. the dump i got only cost me $120 and included 2 gaskets nuts bolts etc... gotta love china copy prices although im probably also paying for it in the end with lack of improvement. but as mad082 said its gotta be better then stock right! i was previously making 288rwhp so maybe if i put it on the dyno i may have a different result up in the top end (better i hope) or maybe the 3inch single bell mouth dump would have been a better option. the few tuning shops i spoke to here in perth when shopping around for dumps mentioned the xforce exhaust products so maybe go for one of them. i opted for the cheaper option cos i also didnt know which way to go and found it hard to part with 350+ when indecisive. sorry i got no real advise for ya but thats my recent dump pipe experience and maybe u might have better luck then me... BTW RB20 with no exhaust after where the cat should be, sounds crazy. ... if only the police were of the same opinion. heh

cool. will checkout. yes i mean front windscreen, must have been tinted in japan and was roughly removed to get licenced in aus

that dude over in NSW will do a retuned eprom for the same price as the defender. could fix your problems plus performance gains... sorry cant remember his nickname or website but u can get him at [email protected] speaking from a similar experience i had this week although mine was missing rather then backfiring. the problem started when platinum plugs were fitted by a smartass without my authority. i then replaced the plugs with cheaper copper plugs 0.8gap (as per SAU recommendations) and still had the same problem. if the gap is too small i was informed by someone (in another thread somewhere) that it also could have a negative effect causing it not to ignite the excess of fuel if the car is running rich.....? in the end i lightly sanded back the contacts of my original old iridiums and it worked a treat.... i cant explain why the coppers didnt work but its gonna be iridium all the way for me now.

firstly the rubber windscreen seals.... are these readily available in AUS? or are they import specials... i called 2 of the major windscreen repairers and all i got was the national bookings/quotes call centers who dont know anything. or can windscreen shops cut out and replace just a section... like a shrunken and lifted corner seal also i have a few annoying sections of tint left behind at the base of the front windscreen in awkward areas to get a scraper to it... does anyone know of a kickass solvent i can use to help it off the glass. bear in mind its probably well aged 15yr old baked in tint.

so...... dumb question here......probably been asked a million times before aswell, but its sunday morning and im bored so im gonna ask it anyways..... what is the technical performance difference between the split and the bell mouth? appart from the obvious different design, and i dont mean power figures. like faster spool with one over the other.. or one makes better power when at full song would the extra turbulence from the bell mouth setup really make a difference? or are the differences with the split only noticable when running really high boost levels ie: 20+ psi therefore making it wankfactor status to the general skyline user.

I have decided i wanna make myself a new dump/down pipe. i know you can get em hell cheap but i wanna try my hand at pipe welding and its a small easy project to undertake. so as the title says... where can i buy pre made flanges and mandrel bends in perth? thanks guys.

if the gap is too big then shouldnt it miss more often/randomly? or is the over fueling effecting the lack of spark between the large gap .. kinda like flooding the chamber with too much fuel causing an insulating effect on the plug?

After returning from europe and picking my car up from the paint shop it has started to misfire on boost. now while i was away an auto electrician was called in, with out me knowing, to take a look at a problem with the car not starting which he ended up replacing the plugs with NGK platinums? (are they good?) which apparently fixed the starting problem.... anyways driving it home when hitting any boost over 0.4bar it would misfire. now a theory i have is this misfiring only seems to happen when the injectors are at full duty cycle, the reason being is i have a tomei eprom which runs very rich. to my understanding its programmed to dump max fuel soon as the turbo spools up. when i got home i swapped the eprom for a toshi one i recently got thats tuned alot leaner but rich at hi boost (at my request) and the problem was gone but only when running upto 1.08 bar. when i turn the boost up over 1.1bar the problem reappears... now its an RB20 with a hks2510 and GTR injectors 040pump so im assuming at 1bar with the leaner toshi tuned eprom the injectors are yet to reach max duty cycle but anything over that the injectors are at max duty which is where the problem occurs. i have also been told that maybe the gap of the plugs fitted may be the cause of the misfiring but why would the problem behave differently between the 2 eproms, unless these particular plugs cant cope with all the fuel ?!? im yet to learn generally about spark plug gaps and associated tuning problems. maybe a semi blocked injector? both the panel shop and auto sparky have claimed no responsability as the car ran ok whilst in their care. (moving it around the yard at idle).... MOFO's any help appreciated guys!!

After returning from europe and picking my car up from the paint shop it has started to misfire on boost. now while i was away an auto electrician was called in, with out me knowing, to take a look at a problem with the car not starting which he ended up replacing the plugs with NGK platinums? (are they good?) which apparently fixed the starting problem.... anyways driving it home when hitting any boost over 0.4bar it would misfire. now a theory i have is this misfiring only seems to happen when the injectors are at full duty cycle, the reason being is i have a tomei eprom which runs very rich. to my understanding its programmed to dump max fuel soon as the turbo spools up. when i got home i swapped the eprom for a toshi one i recently got thats tuned alot leaner but rich at hi boost (at my request) and the problem was gone but only when running upto 1.08 bar. when i turn the boost up over 1.1bar the problem reappears... now its an RB20 with a hks2510 and GTR injectors 040pump so im assuming at 1bar with the leaner toshi tuned eprom the injectors are yet to reach max duty cycle but anything over that the injectors are at max duty which is where the problem occurs. i have also been told that maybe the gap of the plugs fitted may be the cause of the misfiring but why would the problem behave differently between the 2 eproms, unless these particular plugs cant cope with all the fuel ?!? im yet to learn generally about spark plug gaps and associated tuning problems. maybe a semi blocked injector? both the panel shop and auto sparky have claimed no responsability as the car ran ok whilst in their care. (moving it around the yard at idle).... MOFO's any help appreciated guys!!

if anyone else is interested i found instructions on how to do this on another forum: let the car immobalise itself, then turn the key in the ignition, you should now see the red LED stay on. now turn the ignition back off and the light will flash.....you must count the flashes to enter the code....the code is : 1,2,3,8,8. i.e 1. ignition on to see red LED stay on 2.ignition off 3.count 1 flash 4.ignition back on 5.igntion off 6.count 2 flashes 7.igntion on 8.igntion off 9.count 3 flashes 10. igntion on 11.ignition off 12.count 8 flashes 13.ignition on 14.ignition off 15.count 8 flashes the alarm will beep to let you know the code has worked.

i've got one of these alarms installed and want to know how to reprogram the audible sound it makes when you set the alarm. basically i want it not to beep when i arm it. i live in a group of villas and my neighbours have complained numerous times now about when i get home late at night night and lock the car. as anyone who has one would know its quite loud. im hopping its just a sequence of button presses or something as i've had the unit apart and found there are no jumpers or setting controls except a variable resistor onboard. the local audio shop wants $44 plus an hourly rate to reprogram the unit.. but im sure it would only take a minute or 2 to do... help please anyone?

Militec-1.com.au I heard some good things about this stuff today so i thought i'd look into it. might be good for tired jap engines... if it actually works like they say. anyways just though id throw it out there for some opinions.... ?

1990 R32 GTST RB20DET stock internals HKS GT2510 @ 1.3bar GTR injectors Bosch 040 standard afm 3inch exhaust no cat Trust fmic Tomei Eprom SAFC2 288 HP @ wheels or 215rwkw The A/F ratios are a bit suss due to the tomei eprom i think. im hoping to get rid of the SAFC and get a custom tuned eprom to get the A/F ratio a little better and squeeze a little more out of it. i will update this post after fitting a more a/f friendly eprom with a full boost reading.. for u jazza

howstuffworks.com gave me a basic insite into O2 sensors. but id still like to know what its actually reading.. im guessing when the needle moves up over its optimal point its registring excess oxygen in the exhaust but when it moves below is it registering an excess of unburnt fuel (lower oxygen ratio)... any tuners out there ??

another vote for contact cleaner. did it yesterday and worked a treat..

it would be the same as fitting a generic tomei eeprom wouldnt it. its not custom suit but gives you gains for a small price..

i think i have the same problem, although i have a hks turbo and a blitz bov. i have posted about it on here somewhere before and the response i got was it may be a wastegate actuator problem (getting stuck) or the bov, i used to have a china copy HKS ssq before changing to the blitz to try n fix this problem. i havent taken it further because i found that if i gave it shit for a bit it went away. its still there but much less frequently, when it happens its usuall the first time i give it some after it warms up. so im thinking that the actuator is a bit tight from crud or something....been 2 months now.... one day i'll get around to pulling all the piping off n CRC'ing the mofo. edit: is your boost controller the blitz sbc?

what about cooler size? would a 400x300 perform better then a 600x300? as in less lag with still enough cooling surface area?