0t1
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Posts posted by 0t1
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Just corrosponding with these guys, trying to figure out if this will work for PM35
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Things to consider,
- How old is the car i.e. kms, the radiator could be blocked, they require the tanks taken off and rodded to clean properly.
- Do you know if it has been regualrly serviced, for fluids etc, lack of anti corrosive eats the aluminium core, inclding the heater core.
I would not change the standard fan, I have been building and racing drift cars since ages ago and they work the best especially with the standard fan shroud.
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I luvit, M/V Skylines are pretty ugly these days
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could be a fuse as typically thieves will short out your indicators to disarm the alarm systems
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do you have a link to the page, thanks
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OK I've been wondering why my radar detector has been going of randomly since owning my PM35.
I went for a 400km drive yesterday and discovered when I go to overtake or push over half throttle my radar detector goes off with a "Radar Warning" the K Band warning still works as there were a couple of cops on the way, so I was playing around with throttle as I was driving along and every time I push over haf it sets of the detector,
I'm thinking there is RF coming from my throttle body and getting picked up by the detector.
I think this should not be happening as all electronics must meet standards for RF interference.
Maybe I have a break down in the insulation some where but I can't see anything loose or cut/worn.
Anyone had this or can see corelation between these units.
Radar detector is Beltronics multi band,
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That's an iunisual place for an oli leak, the cooler is a bolt on arrangement and unles you have removed it there sholud be no problem, how much oil are you loosing it might be coming from above, cam covers are prone to coming loose, try tightening the covers maybe.
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Use it nothing wrong with 3540 on a 25 with the right supporting mods, injectors, aftermarket ECU, exhaust etc good for 265rwkw. run on E85 and 1 bar 350+rwkw. It's a real hassel to mount on low manifold.
We've been running a few 3540's on RB's for ages, we use .86 housing on top mount manifold with FFP, gate to atmos, 3." exhaust, flip the intercooler upsidedown and the piping is a total of <1m. lag is adjusted via clutch pedal.
25, 26 & 30's.
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Nothing really, 20's won't plug up different connector, 25DE/T very much the same, I use the pink or red aftermarket ones on our 25's, as long as they are new is the key,
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you could undo the heater hoses on the engine side of the firewall and loop them together, see if you have any leaks after that?
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I have just replaced the heater core in a C34,with one from an R33, the existing core was maked as Laurel. The core had a hole in it I think due to no green stuff in the water.
It was leaking into the drivers footwell through the ducting, with less water in the passenger footwell.
As it was the first time I have had to do this, I removed the entire dash pad, centre console, loosened the steering column and everthing to get to it, after doing it I think I would be able remove the core without taking the entire dash out.
The hassel was removing the passenger air bag to get at the fan out of the way to access the core. It is a mission even for me who takes cars to bits on a regular basis.
There three units that make up the heater setup, Ducting director, fan assembly and heater core assembly.
Took a day to get out, replace and back in.
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Its the bloody Gialla(Galah) Front bar it sticks out a good bit from the front of the car...
Just do it bro, that's exactly what customising is about, doing shit your way and your styles.
Should be easy enuff, go see a mini truck bagger, there are some excellent units out there, you will probably need custom inserts to match your chassis pick up points in the rear, the fronts would be a bit different as they are struts. Just make sure you get bags with damper capability, but the bagman will know if he's any good.
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I use manual mode in my PM35 most of the time around town, I don't lift off on up shifts, downshifting is cool as the ECU takes care of rev matching for you.
I suffer the same bad point as RBPOWA. Still trying to figure out how to trick the ECU to allow brake and throttle to get the toque converter up to speed for launches.
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Orsum idea, will keep an eye on this thread
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=506005961
Cheap fibre glass bumper for sale on Trademe.co.nz
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Crank pulley removal can be done with a long strong arm, put it on the big nut at an angle thats close to the chassis rail and use the starer to spin the engine just for less than a second.
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I've had the standard stereo and AC controller changed and the screen still works (in Japanese)
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Whos got a Titan powered car!
Just curious to know, someone with 1st hand knowledge to share. To suit R,33 or 34, S13, M35 Chassis.
I have done a bit of research on the VG, VQ, VH and VK Engines, they have technology advantages to other single cam V8's,
I'm looking for the following information;
1. Sump fitment and or mods?
2. Clearances to steering and chassis rails?
3. Engine crossmember modification or interchange?
4. Gearbox?
4. Diff ratio?
Cheers
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Standard NA Engine WGC34 RB25DE +T with 140,000kms
800cc injectors
DSR Colis
FMIC
LINK G4 ECU
3 1/2" exhaust
Alcotane E85
357rwkw at 16PSI
Competed two seasons in D1NZ National Drifting Championship
Lost compression on number one cylinder after 20 months, got another WGC34 engine $300NZD with less than 120,000 kms bolted everything on a quick retune and banging on limiter again, I think it's a very cheap alternative to a fullly built forged engine
M35 Info
in Wagoneers
Posted
I'm not sure if this the correct place to post this, or if it has already been posted, I have has an email from JPNZ, see below, share it around!