SOOKIE

Thanks for the offers guys, my bro's R33 intercooler has been sitting in my backyard for years and I still don't want it. EvilR34 has PM. Heslo, let me know what price your after for the blitz etc.

What state are you in?

Would love to fit a larger side mount intercooler to the ceffy. Apparently R34 and stagea are direct bolt ons and are a bit thicker. Let me know if you have one laying around you don't want anymore, I'll pay cash or get a slab of beer, whatever your into. Please PM me if you can hook me up. Bought a COBRA fixed back bucket seat without rails, so keen for some ASAP!

Oh, when my bottom-end went in my 180SX, it sounded like someone was smashing the engine with a hammer as hard as they could.

RB20s are usually not too bad with bearings, SR20s are the true bottom end bearing destroyers. I've destoyed a couple of them. I had a mate who thrashed his R32 for years (drove it like it was stolen, literally) and never had a problem, then swapped it for a clean SR20 silvia and blew the engine within a month because he revved it like an RB20. Not many engines can rev as well as an RB20! Best thing to do is rip off the sump pan yourself, put a magnet in there and see if any shavings come out, if they do, the engine is finished because the crank is scored (bottom end bearings aren't metal). Then put the sump back on and fill with cheap crap oil and thrash it until it blows (fun). Then source a clean stock replacement, all up shouldn't cost more than $1800 including labor. If you don't get any metal shavings in the sump, then you can decide on whether you want to pay big bucks and replace the bearings etc. or change the oil and hope for the best. My friend had a knocking noise coming from his RB25, which we thought was the bottom end bearings but he changed the oil a couple times and its gone away and hasn't had a problem since. The point I make is: change your oil and oil filter regularly and you shouldn't have a problem. I have not yet blown an RB20 and I drive them very hard so don't blame the engine, blame the poor servicing history.

Oh, and don't forget Rb20s are cheap to replace and have better injectors than RB25. Also, can use GTR injectors ECUs can also be remapped, so no need to shell out for power FC and risk defects

I have owned 2 R32s, 1 R33 S2, 1 SR S13, 1 SR 180SX. I have blown SRs and RB25s but not an RB20 and yet the RB20s have had more of a hammering. Out of them all, the R32 wins for me. My R33 had a top mount TD06-25G and made 360 rwkw. All of my mates own R33s and as much as I love RB25s and their gearboxes, everything else is boring. I'm over the whole power thing and would prefer a good set of coilovers and mechanical LSD over power. Then again, I like my drifting. The revy nature of the RB20 and the bulletproof reliability is awesome. I was running 21 psi and completely leaning out my R32 for 3 months without realising (long story) and the engine was still fine. Also, a FMIC, RB25 turbo and a fuel pump with a remap will get you 200 rwkw in an Rb20, which costs hardly anything and is plenty of power IMO. Street racing is gay, I'm over it, just gets you into trouble and risks others lives.

had no alarm, no emobiliser and no insurance poor guy has been trying to sell it on carsales for ages, he's spent over 20k on it too. Just goes to show, first mod should always be alarm and emobiliser. Had ohlins coilovers and a Greedy emanage, so if any of these items comes up for sale, get suspcious. Sounds like some bloody bogans have it, I just hope they crash it, fly through the window and die and hopefully not hurt the car too much.

Don't need lines anymore, picked some up today. are there banjo bolts that go on the engine, becasue I think I might need those still

I really need some standard RB20 turbo oil and water lines ASAP. I've called a few places like Z imports, Kansai but everone just cuts them as they are pretty much worthless. I can pay or supply alcohol or whatever. Just send me a PM if you can help.

Nissan Skyline R32 December 92 model! Manual silver coupe Turbo Original 150,000kms Mods: • Hypergear TR43 turbo, brand new! Paid $1800 for supply and fitment • Braided oil lines • Power Spirit front mount intercooler • Polished piping • KYB non-adjustable lowered coilovers (nice and stiff) • New clutch • New engine (only 40,000 kms on it) • Turbotech boost controller • Bosch 040 fuel pump • Jasma 3” turbo back exhaust • Stainless induction pipe • HKS SSQ BOV • Boost gauge • White face dash • Alarm/emobiliser • 3A racing pod filter • Denso spark plugs • GTR side skirts • GTR rear wing (not on the car) • Type M front bar • Nolothane castor bushes • Nolothane upper arm bushes • Pioneer CD player • Pioneer 6X9 back • Pioneer 6” front • Standard 16” wheels painted black, good tyres • LSD very smooth for daily driving • Car is serviced every few thousand kms. Has new fully synthetic oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, coolant, AFM Has probably more stuff I have forgotten. Car drives very smoothly, interior is clean, paint is good, will not disappoint. Body is in pretty good condition has one minor dent in rear quarter but easily fixed but not too noticeable. Mechanical inspection welcome. Reason for sale: uni student and no income. May trade plus cash adjustment my way. Car does need a remap as bigger turbo is causing pulsing through AFM causing it to stall occasionally. Should make 200+ rwkw quite easily with some tuning. Price: $12,500 negotiable as is or $13,000 neg when it gets remapped by Jeff from Speedlab call Dan on 0401 936 982 if interested. Throw me your offers but nothing stupid as I'm not desperate to sell.

Ok, just checked ebay, cheapies are like $60, SARD is $120 ish plus shipping. Pretty good price really, where do they fit onto?

hmmm, where can I get one of these? I haven't seen them around. Are there any low priced ones around? ....Looks towards Ryan's direction to see if he has any at Kansai

Hmmmm, well if your seriously considering that kind of setup, I thought you would be clearer about what your doing especially if its in 2 days That will cost a friggen load of money probably 10k on engine alone easily. If you want 600 rwkw, just choose a setup for 600 rwkw, If you want 400 rwkw then choose a setup........... and so forth. It depends on what you want to do, race, drag, drift etc. The more power you run, the more money it will chew too Trent (uras) would be a good guy to give you info since he has built some of the toughest cars in Australia but even he's struggling to understand what your after. This might be a better option if your serious about drag racing: http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...e|1&trecs=1

Well, I'm not sure if this is a joke or not but..........the flutter comes from not having a blow off valve. Just take yours off (if you actually own a car with a turbo) and plug it up. But the lag between gears pisses me off so I go back to the trusty HKS SSQV. Please do searches, questions like these have been answered sooooo many times.

^ I want your car! anyway, 250 rwkw on Rb20 injectors? now I've heard everything! So do I need an aftermarket fuel rate regulator to get more fuel pumping through the injectors?

How safe was it to run that much power through your stock injectors Simon? could they run anymore power? I'm getting a hypergear TR43 fitted as we speak and I'm getting a remap through speedlab once I have run it in. If I can get 200rwkw safely, I'll be a happy man. I'll be giving feedback on the turbo kit on the RB20 and I'm hoping its not too laggy. The 5-0 Laurel ran this turbo and apparenty spooled 300 RPM later than a VG30, which is pretty good for a 440 hp turbo. Here's a list of my mods: - Hypergear TR43 turbo - FMIC - straight through 3ich exhaust - Bosch 040 fuel pump - turbotech boost controller - 3A racing pod filter - HKS SSQ BOV I'm keen to see how much Jeff can extract from these minimal mods. I plan to run injector cleaner before I get the dyno and change the fuel filter as to ensure fuel supply is as good as I can get it (cheaply). I aways run BP or Shell 98. Feel free to offer opinions or ideas.

I think the old JMS R33 ran this turbo or similar. That thing was a monster and lit up the wheels on the tightest of tracks (Port Gawler). Great turbo for RB25!

Awesome 33 - that is one of the best i have seen, if only i had that sort of money - Good price too What sort of cars are you looking at swapping with, are you looking at a direct swap or are you after $ as well

I've got 9.5" 17s running 215s. I'm aiming to truy 205 next time. It looks funny, the rim sticks out the guards but you can't see the tyre!

$500, thats cheap if you can get all those things put on. Turbo is a bit of a bitch, just pay the cash.

I saw this car a couple days ago on the street, very tough. What sort of power are you making?

I can't believe this is still for sale! well worth the money your asking for it. Has a new engine from a stock auto cefiro and has all power and handling mods, I would have bought it if I had the cash laying around.

Hi guys, massive thread, I read up to page 12 and then skipped. I have an article from fast 4s I think where a stock RB20 in a 32 is pulling 300 rwkw'ish , I'll try and find it in my magazine stack. Anyway, I've got a pretty stock R32 with a 3.5" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, 040, turbotech pneumatic bleeder. I've ordered a hypergear TR43 turbo and I'm planning a remap at speed lab. With the standard injectors and AFM, what do you guys recommend I do? I was just going to tell Geoff to see how much power it could make with safe air fuel ratios and then back it off a little just to give it a chance to tackle any boost spikes etc. I was hoping to get a reliable 200 rwkw running around 1 bar, what do you guys think?

yep, mates 180 had a fuel pump wiring issue, took them 2 weeks and 1 k to figure it out