Samon

The main advantage of using one of the GUI tools I suggested is that you don't first have to rip the CD tracks into WAV format first, as you do with RazorLAME (IIRC).

Absolutely... I know that AudioGrabber and Quintessential both use LAME... not 100% sure about iTunes though...

There are a few options... (actually heaps, but a few good FREE ones) 1. AudioGrabber. This software is a dedicated CD-> MP3 ripper. Connects to the 'net and grabs the titles, pretty basic but does the job. http://www.audiograbber.com-us.net/ 2. Quintessential Player (+ the free LAME MP3 Encoder Plug-in). This is what I use most of the time... it's a media player kinda like Winamp, but I use it mainly for it's ripping features (you can easily specify the bit-rate, etc) and fantastic MP3 Tag editing capabilities. http://www.quinnware.com/ 3. iTunes. This free player from Apple has the ability to rip to MP3, but it's disabled by default. From memory, you go into the Advanced tab of the options window and change it from AAC format to MP3, then play around with the desired bitrate, etc. If you're not using iTunes as a media player though it's a fairly bloated piece of software, especially when you have a lot of music in your library... runs okay but can take a bit of time to load up, and uses a fair chunk of your RAM. http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/

My Type M S1 had globes, wiring, etc but no little twist-knob on the indicator stalk. I pulled the surround off the steering column and there was a little two-wire connector there, just taped back against the rest of that loom. short out the two pins - foggies on. For a while I had a little switch wired up to this connector, but after a while I ended up picking up an indicator stalk which had the fog dial and swapping that in. Just wanted it to look factory rather than an aftermarket switch!

louder, absolutly!!!! My 2.5" all the way is 90dB, legal, and sounds like it isn't even there compared to my old 3" to twin 3" cannons. VERY LOUD. There was a noticible low-down torque gain with the smaller exhaust... not that it was un-driveable or anything, but it felt like the power was shifted up the rev-range a bit too far for my likings.

Hi R34TRK, My NA 33 had a 3" cat-back system on it when I bought it... it's a 3", mandrel bent stainless steel system going into 2x 3" cannons. Let's just say LOUD!!!! I frequently set off car alarms in the carpark at work, just by driving past at well under 3k RPM. I've gotta say though, I felt it was lacking a little down-low torque, so I've now got a 2.5" cat-back, but which goes into the same twin 3" cannons... sounds almost as loud, but much more low-down torque. It's not for everyone... my GF finds it a little too loud... but ah well! with the 3" -> 2x3", it used to drone like crazy... never really bothered me but most of my passengers got sick of it pretty quickly! Now the drone is much less... still there at certain RPM, but not too bad. It's all up to the individual... I got EPA'd with my original exhaust... lol 90dB? pfft! no way! I got a 2.5" -> muffler -> 2.5" tip made up... that was bang on 90dB and it felt like my engine was missing compared to the old one!

Have a read of this thread... it's got a wealth of information on the whole 'What to look for...".

Hmmm.... on the R33's isn't it 'gts25t', not 'GTS-T'?

My 33 felt quite at home in the wet... except that I too lost a front wheel arch guard after hitting a slightly-deeper-than-expected puddle a bit to quick... I actually do still have it, but by the time I managed to pull over and stop it had dragged along the road for just long enough to shred it in half. Had a look under there and saw that the drivers side one is also loose, with at least one of the plastic clips missing, so I'll have to fix that when I get a chance.

I've seen so many people go and put extractors on, get their engines tuned up, do custom air intakes and exhaust systems, etc all in the name of getting 'better economy'... This *might* work *if* you drove using the same amount of power as before, but with less fuel being consumed... but from experience if you have more power, you tend to use it... so worse economy!

24??? This isn't a truck! The battery will put out 11.8-12v when the car isn't running, and when running the alternator will bring this up to between 13 and 14.4v. The voltage at the taillights is not reduced or boosted at all. just like your headlights... if you have a manual and you chuck it in first, turn on your headlights, and with the brakes on slowly let out the clutch a bit (i.e. stall the engine down to say 300-400RPM) you will notice them all drop in brightness. Only do this for a few seconds so you don't shag out your clutch though! If yours is like mine, and the voltage-regulator is on it's way out, it will drop a little in brightness even jsut idling compared to bringing up the revs a bit. So short answer? 12V when car is off, 13-14.4V when running.

Well... it's been a while since I had the rear seat out of my 33... but I'm pretty sure it looked removable. Lots of bolts... but removable.

By the sound of this: it would appear that his rear-wing has the LED stop-lamps missing. So rather than replace them in the wing, he wants to just put one in the rear window. much easier and cheaper.

As mentioned a few times, this air-con clicking is quite common on the 33's. Mine has been doing it for a few months now... very annoying but not quite annoying enough to make me rip the entire dash apart to fix it! I'll do it one day!

There is one other *possible* way... but it will be an absolute last resort if you can't get the key. As adam-__- mentioned, there is a 'Valet' lock that you can enable so that the only way you can get into the boot is with one of the non-valet keys. This is a little lever inside the boot itself, where the latch is. This simply disables the mechanism for the cable-operated lever release. What you *could* do... and i stress this is a last-resort, it's a royal PITA... is remove the rear seat, then there should be a removable panel behid the seat that allows access to the boot... like where the fuel-pump etc is... and then reach through that to release the valet-lock. then you can use the lever inside the car to open the boot. Last resort, but better than destroying the boot latch or whatever. Once you've got it into non-valet mode.. maybe break off the valet switch? Anyway, it's just a suggestion...

Wow...

Haha indeed that is golden.

Bendix didn't have what I needed... mechanic's brake supplier recommended MaxiStop DB8382's... fit perfectly... mechanic reckons they'll be fine (though apparently a relatively soft pad so probably wont last forever... better than chewing out the rotor though!) for my usage (predominantly a daily-driver with the occasional bit of 'spirited' driving

Hey dyken, I got canaried last week (pop-tart) and had to get a full RWC to get it cleared. Anyway, my front pads were due for replacement, yet there was no listing in the Bendix catalogue for them at all. Ended up taking it to my mechanics who rang their brake supplier, got replacement pads, apparently for a Maxima. Anyway, they fitted perfectly, got the defect cleared and all good!

I destroyed my factory clutch at 140,000k's, and got an Exedy Heavy Duty one put in. after about a week, I noticed the exact same symptoms you mentioned... especially varying with heat. I took it back to the clutch place, and it turned out it was an air-bubble in the clutch line. had it bled properly and no problems since. and that was seven months ago.

But if i understand correctly, airflow is no use unless the air has somewhere to go. Pressure is what is needed in this case as unless extra pressure is applied, you're only ever going to get 2.5L of air/fuel into your engine... no matter how much airflow you have. all this would mean is that it might get there quicker... The main concept behind turbocharging is that you effectively get more air/fuel into the same size engine, producing the power of a larger engine without the weight. Anyway, a turbocharger can spin at speeds of up to 180,000 RPM, good luck finding an electric motor that can do that sort of speeds *and* apply 5-7PSI of pressure *and* not draw a million Amps! Just my 2c.

Hey hazerb30, In my 33, there are cables under the two front seats that I assume are supposed to be connected to the seatbelt 'socket' thing. I assume they must have been changed over for compliance??? Anyway, if you take a paper clip and short out the two pins on the cable (passenger-side is easiest, there's only 2 wires, not going to get the wrong ones), there is a clunk in the seatbelt mech. I understand that it's so it moves freely until you plug the seatbelt in, when it tightens. Could be wrong on that, but that's where they get connected to. A little more about this here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1924978

Exactly what I was trying to tell my mate with an XR8 Ute... he wants to make that exact setup... he's got a motor that will do 25,000RPM on 12V at 2.3A... but I doubt it will be able to push any kind of pressure...

Hi all, I was poking around in the boot of my 33 the other day changing one of my reversing globes, and noticed (not for the first time, but never bothered to investigate before ) this motor mounted beside where the jack is stored. It looked all factory, and you can see it is supposted to pull a cable. I did a bit of searching and saw a suggesstion somewhere that it could be some sort of exhaust valve actuator... so i got my dad to give my car some revs while i watched it... nothing... anyway i got him to watch it while i gave it some SERIOUS revs... and he exclaimed that it moved... sure enough i got him to rev it HARD... i.e. 6500ish RPM, and yeah it does move somewhere around the 4000RPM mark i think. There is no cable attached to the motor, and obviously no exhaust valve or whatever hooked up to it, but i'm wondering whether it would be worth hooking up. My exhaust was FREAKING LOUD... then i got EPA'd for noise pollution, now it's just LOUD (i.e. bang on 90dB but it looks crappy with a single 2.5" piece of black pipe where there once were two massive 3.5" stainless cannons ). I would like put the rear half of the 3" exhaust system back on (they cut the old one at the same place where they put the flange for the two-piece 2.5" system), and wondered if i could put some sort of exhaust valve (i.e. APEXi ECV or similar) in between and connect the cable up to this motor... that way under say 4000 RPM it would be nice and quiet.... possibly even having a bit more backpressure for the down-low torque that it misses with a larger exhaust (we're talking NA here...), but then if I'm really giving it some stick it would be open enough to allow more top-end power where i really dont care about noise... lol if i get EPA'd again i'd just disconnect the cable to the exhaust valve motor . The best of both worlds??? it would be something like (excuse the crappy ASCII art): [exhaust motor thing] ! _________ ! | | ! /=====[3.5" Cannon]=( | RB25DE |====[CAT]=====[RESONATOR]======={[VALVE]}=====( 2.5" |_________| 2.5" 2.5" 3" \=====[3.5" Cannon]=( 2.5" Is this motor standard on all 33's? was there a factory option for a variable exhaust? I have done a lot of searching and found a fair bit on them for the 34's, but not much mention for 33's. Can anyone see a problem with my idea?

Mine is doing this as well now... exactly the same... rather irritating... have to pull it all apart one say and see if i can fix the problem. It's as the seller mentioned, the motor that moves one of the vents is stuck or something... when I get around to fixing it i'll let you know!