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nos man

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Posts posted by nos man

  1. Hey guys does anyone know if I can change the engine number from a defected vehicle to another chassis and it'll go through? In other words I have a defected skyline but I brought another one that's not defected and decided to put the motor from the defected into the new one, can I still change the engine number on the new one?

  2. alignment goes out over time as bushes wear, this being a rear traction issue i would look into a proper wheel alignment place to adjust the rear. most normal wheel alignment places align the car like a normal road car so they'll run toe in when there's camber to compensate so tyres wear more evenly. a proper alignment shop will look at your rear suspension on full compression because wheels tend to toe in when under full compression so maybe a little toe out is needed or even go down the path of changing all the rear arms and get it set up properly. you have to go someone who knows what they're doing though

  3. thats exactly where I was going Abuser :)

    NEO + light chassis + big turbo + big rubber = Whur grrrr BOOSH!

    might seem easy on paper but once you go down the road to building a car properly it's not as easy as you think. what you've mentioned might be good for straight line acceleration but you did mention you want a bit of track work out of it as well so you might want to look deeper into it instead of just lightness and power

  4. my opinion is always buy newer and something that's already been engineered by manufacturer to run that motor, i wouldn't go with r32 chassis and rb25 unless i had a chassis refinforce and refresher plan.

  5. cheers for that but i got all the calipers and a set of rotors and ebc pads with still plenty left in them and a whole brand new set of slotted rotors and high temp pads for a good price altogether. orginally plan was to run ds2500 pads, dba slots and braided lines all round but i only had to throw in about 500 bucks extra for all of the above and i get to run 324mm rotors which in the future allows me to have a wide range of 2 peice rotors

  6. well with everyday driving where there are pot holes, bumps, train tracks etc i would stay away from ball joints but it's your choice. i went with ball joints because i rarely drive my car on the streets and for the adjustablility but there's alot more playing around with other components that'll effect allignment as well. so for a street set up i would go with bushes and let the wheel alligner do their job setting it so i can forget it and maybe get it reallignned half yearly or so

  7. i would rather go with eccentric bushes for street cars but i don't know how much adjustability they offer but i went with ball joints but not the branded ones because i rather not mount my car on anything with $1000+ ikeya formulas under my car and i know i'll be replacing them in a year or so

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