D_Stirls

just go for a 3071R Matty, very similar compressor but already fitted with the T3 rear.

Get a set of 570, 660 or 750's off these guy for $780. And they're in Australia. http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.p...=74&scid=12

It's just a Greddy copy can that i got off eBay for $45. i added the filter though, i just drilled and tapped a hole then used a -8 barbed fitting and a filter that i got from Autobahn for $8. If you do the same though make sure you use a -10 size fitting as the filter is to small on mine and when i put the car back together i'll be making it bigger. I have to make up the brackets to hold the can as well.

Just be careful you don;t pop the pannel in at the top when you stretch the guard to flare the wheel arch. i think with the amount that the guard has the be stretched in this case it would be better to cut and fill the guard at the wheel arch.

coolant temp sensor? If its dead the ECU won't be accessing the temp enrichment maps

you'll have to make up another induction pipe because the SR AFM is 60mm and the Z32 is 76mm (maybe 80mm can't remember which)

so he's limited it to 20?

Hey Adrian take the extra entrant and use the money to cater the event. I'm sure that the other won't mind having an extra 35 out there if it's paying for their lunch

I wasn't thinking that you were making the decision for your grandfather i was just saying that there are medical reasons to get it done and doing it while they are a baby means they will never remember it.

Ask the nurses what they think. My sister is a nurse in the urology ward and the amount of infected foreskins that she has seen in old patients that aren't lucid is unbelievable, she also talks about old bloke that have had to foreskin grow over the end of their penis and what do you think happens in both these cases???? The end up getting circumcise as an adult which isn't the most enjoyable experience

not really you just take the alternator off to get access and your away. It eliminates the risk of of the cast filter thread breaking with the weight of the lines and the adaptor block.

the filter thread on your car is M20x1.5, it's the non VTC SR20's that are 3/4x16. I would keep the 3/4 thread in the filter block and change the one that bolts to the engine as there is more filter availability in the 3/4 thread. Better yet go to Racespec and get one of these; http://racespec.com.au/product_info.php?cP...products_id=498

what block adaptor dave? If they are fittings that you are getting from outlaws i would say that they would be Speedflow as that is what they stock.

Hey Sam, Just wondering what rear housing you were using was it the 8 or 10cm2. Also do you have a graph of the over 300kw run. EDIT; i'll just PM you

I only got that from the bloke that said that he was running a SI member because that SII member had to have the holes modded. And i didn't mean that the chassis rails are wider i meant that front to back that are further spaced apart (i.e. east/west is the same but north/south is different). and i have heard that from more than 1 source. EDIT!! But having read what i wrote i can see why you though i wrote that the chassis rails were different, which i know they aren't. Anyway for get about what i wrote just look at the link. EDIT 2! This is what he actually wrote;

you should have Dave, well that depends on what row cooler you are running. I know mine is a different model S-Series but this is where i put mine (had to cut the hole though).

i just bought a cheffy x-member and i paid $100 but they are generally around the $200 mark (i wouldn't pay more than that). I found this thread when i was researching my 25 conversion. I'm not to sure what R33 member that he is talking about as the SI and SII 33 members are different. I think it has to be a SII member and bear in mind that you have to re drill one set of holes on the SII member as they are holes are spaced wider than the holes on the S13 rails. I spoke to some one who was using a SI 33 member with a CA 10mm radiator there was only 5mm between the balancer and the radiator. http://www.trk-dv.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=101

yeah i won't be going up there. You could aways take the lines to ENZED or Ryco and get them it hook the fittings up, it'll take them a grand total of 5 minutes to get them done. Let me know what you want to do.

i don't know where pitlane is, but i'm at campbelltown.

You won't be able to claim against the workshop as they will say that the problem was caused by the cheap lines. if they had provided the parts then you would have a claim. bring the lines to me and i'll get the fittings on them.

It'll have to be completely standard, all the factory emission stuff has to be in place and it'll have an idle CO2 and hydrocarbon test as well, which it will pass with the facotry ECU in place. It should be just an inspection though and no engineering will be required. I'm getting all the parts togetther to do a RB25 conversion on a 180sx so if you need some of the factory stuff then i have pretty much everything provided your 25 is a series II. EDIT! (now that i've actually read your post) You will need to remove the FPR and you will need to put the standard ECU in (infact when you produce the car to be inspected you have to allow the easy access to the ECU I.e. remove the kick pannel). It would be a good idea to find a factory turbo and fit that as well.

where are you located? I'll give you $50 posted for the AFM (air flow meter) if it's a pink sticker one, you can keep the air box to sell else where.

LOL

No worries let me know when your ready