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http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image141bz4.jpg Is that the standard cat? looked like it to me http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6006/image167mx7.jpg K so just wondering whether i should have fuses in ANTI SKID, PTC HEATER (which i think is only for 4wd), A/T IND( autotransmission fluid or smtn???) and INHIBIT or not? Also wondering if most HI-FLO panels are the same, i got a BMC branded one(cost about $20 more than the K&N) for like $100, down from $160, would that be the same hi-flow panel most people suggest you buy? Its like made in italy, where there HQ is based, and they design some of the air filtration systems on f1's supposedly

yeh, it wont hurt your turbo, but theres stalling issues and idle problems so maybe just try a pod? i was getting some fully sick shuffles through mine (before i got sick of the heat soaking factor and changed it)

ah i got some problem with mine, except mine doesnt sound quite so harsh. I started to notice mine when i installed the intercooler but its definitely not rubbing on anything.. big end bearing sound expensive

some fine biach's there People have had some problems with the monsta branded turboes, and these coolers will just be cheap chinese imports but the piping all looks pretty good and the quality on most coolers around is pretty good atm. I wouldnt risk it, for about $450 you can get a justjap one and they are pretty decent quality and lots of people on this site run them (me included) and are yet to post many problems. The link should be at the top of the page under sponsors.

car is fast enough for the moment, and i couldnt justify making it faster. 2530's just cost to much, better to save and buy a gtr next year when im 21 i reckon. Hmm alot of exhaust cutting advice, im to scared to lose the cat, and i got a like 5" tip and muffler already, so i dont think that side of things would help, umm i would prefer not to make my car unroadworthy, its only got 1 muffler on it currently. I dont want my car to be lumpy because i hit something with a mallet!! i guess cams would be the way to go... What if you got a stroker kit for one of these things, besides the fairly significant power gain, would yuo be looking at a nicer sound? rb25's dont sound as good as rb20's in my opinion and the stroker would take it closer to an rb25, so;;; thx 66

Any suggestions? I have a 3" exhaust system, all the way down and it sounds OK i suppose but i want it to sound tuned. Like you know when you work a v8 it starts to sound rough (lumpy cams are popular way to make it sound rougher), same as like a J-ported rotary sounds rough.. what would i have to do to the rb20 to achieve a rough sound? Dont need like smart assed comments either, just wanna know how... I can give examples of cars that sound rough if you like

about time sum1, started making them >.< Although i think lots of people will use a right angle joined into the POD, i use the same one as you, set up looks exactly the same

hmm, yes i was wondering the same question, and it seems BATMBL's split dumps are popular.. but i was also under the impression that the dump and front pipes were the same? i have a 3" system but my mechanic's told me i need a new front pipe, once he used the word dump instead =/ I have from teh o2 sensor back, i know that much Sorry to gank ur thread xD, its sorta related

Just wondering how to enter ECU diagnostic mode. I found a topic with all the different codes but i dont know how to enter the diagnostic mode or to find the ECU or LED's. Car is a 90 r32 gts-t. Heard something about a kick panel in the passenger foot well

i had alot of bent fins on mine, that were permanently that way, but everything else is good

wheres it located on a rb20det? i cant see anything that looks like a filter in any of the images ive seen.. is it like a silver barrel about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide that looks like its connected to 2 hoses and has like the letters A G L A or something on it?

I want to purchase a new intercooler for my gts-t. The justjap ones look good (set up for the 32 gts-t piping) and are decently priced but i noticed they have three inch inlet and outlet. I assume that means all the pipes are 3 inch but im not sure. Would this be to big for the standard rb20det turbo? I plan on upgrading to a 33 high flowed eventually and this is more of a supporting mod but am i likely to lose power, meanwhile, by upgrading to this cooler?

noo the gts bloke, is a asshole to every 1 it seems, 90% of the posts ive read involve him being a wanker but meh, watever, each to his own i dont care. Talking about cars not some random. As for me chilling out well, im not the irate one, or at least wasnt before, youll note that he is attacking first. But meh, dont need to justify anything right? As for being stupid and adjusting it without knowing etc, if u read my posts youll note that i said id get it professionally adjusted as for rice, well type "definition of rice" into google, and youll catch my drift

hey gtst, have a cry man ^^ all ive seen you do is flame people its hilarious, dont read my posts, youll be doing me a favour, dont you worry Shouldnt assume every 1 is a dead sh*t and that you are the most intelligent person on the forums either^^ As for not reading my posts because its a sh*t book, well i find it hilarious that you insult me because of a lack of knowledge, and all the while read 3 page books Oh well, theres one in every forum and, well, E-Thugs suck =)

ohh thx ill go super cheap tomoro check it out And yeh, rice was a major factor, its rice enough as it is, being a japanese car and all >.<

1.) r32 gtst does not have a stock boost controller. the boost is regulated by the spring in the wastegate actuator. -_- no comment well ive never had a rice car before so i didnt realize you HAD to have a boost gauge. So theres no tool.. I didnt have to buy a electronic pressure gauge to test my compression, i used a mechanical gauge i stuck into each cylinder and turned the engine over to check. I assumed there was a tool, even if its not turbocharger specific that would measure boost or air pressure or whatever, mechanically but, evidently, the only way of doing it is by buying a boost gauge. And well $80 is alot.. Im not like most of the people on here who spend hundreds of dollars on massive Greddy stickers, neon lights, gianormous rear wings, glow in the dark windscreen wipers and such. I wanted a mechanical boost gauge.. not a electronic one.. That and im 18 so.. Some of arent quite on $50k a year. Ill take it to a dyno and get them to dyno it up and set up my controller any way seeing as you just cant have a turboed car without a boost gauge and well i dont need more electronics, my car already looks like a food processor.

hey um basically i am interested in purchasing 1 of these, but what should i get to determine how much boost im cranking.. I dont want to spend $80 just to get a turbo timer/boost gauge unit which tells me my current boost, just so i can adjust the boost controller. I assume the stock boost controller isnt good for this because it only cranks to 7 psi and ive heard that the majority of stockish 32 gts-t owners are running theirs at about 12 PSI.. 12 PSI is about right yeh? Is there some kind of tool i can hook onto some where that will tell me how much boost im running to help me adjust it??? Thanks

mm its not gona get read here ahzzz

hey um basically i am interested in purchasing 1 of these, but what should i get to determine how much boost im cranking.. I dont want to spend $80 just to get a lcd screen unit which tells me my current boost, just so i can adjust the boost on the controller. I assume the stock boost controller isnt good for this because it only cranks to 7 psi and ive heard that the majority of stockish 32 gts-t owners are running theirs at about 12 PSI.. 12 PSI is about right yeh? Is there some kind of tool i can hook onto some where that will tell me how much boost im running to help me adjust it??? Thanks

ahhhh thanks man, ill put the air filter on (assuming most people just cut the old air box off or disconnect the pipeing and chuck the new 1 on) and look into a Boost controller, look at cranking it to around 12 psi right? Got a 3 inch turbo-back exhaust on it when i got it which is mad (got like a 8 inch straight through lukey muffler and a 5 inch tip and its still not very loud demit). Guess ill go boost conrtoller hunting.. that 1 for $22 sounds cool but, i assume it doesnt actually gauge the psi your getting and would have to play by ear. Time to go spend half this weeks pay check zz thx

just wondering first, where a stock (besides exhaust) r32 gts-t (rb20det) will hit max boost and max kilowatts at? What RPM's? Also wondering if any 1 else has the following problem. I accelerate foot flat, at 3k rpm turbo spools, the car pulls hard to about 4500 rpm then i cant really feeling it "pulling" anymore and away goes that pushed-back-in-my-seat feeling, until at about 6000rpm-6500rpm (hard to see, revs increase to damn fast) it seems to come out of its rut and pulls again, harder than ever. Any one got any suggestions? Im getting a fmic soon but i cant see that helping. I assumed it could be timing or something, maybe the ecu needs fixing i dunno. I remember when i bought it it had a flat spot, which i fixed with injector cleaner dunno if that helps Cant afford to chuck it on a dyno at the moment, so any help is much appreciated. Also just wondering about new air filters (pod stylez). I heard from a couple of people and places that they are actually worth putting on my model skyline as the stock one isnt so great. So anyway is it worth the $150? Will it make gay whistling sounds or make compressor wheel surge more likely thanks

black smoke = running too rich, duno bout puff of smoke only once, perhaps mm like injector blocking then unblocking or ecu messing about Although my knowledge is rather limited; im sure its not to big a problem

yehhh that sites sweet And from my crappy knowlegde of cars, and in case morgz is as dumb as me, to much flutter is bad for your turbo

um i work for a tyre company and basically nankangs are the cheapest crapiest chinese import tyres that we sell. My skyline had them on it when i got it and it was impossible to keep the back (or even the front) lined up under acceleration into corners out of them and just hammering it from the lights. The compound on them really is horrible, when i took mine off it took me and the guys at the tyre store about 20 minutes to get them both off just because of the crappy compound there made up of and absolutely no flex, try pulling the tyres off a hot wheels car. Ended up breaking 1 tyre bar and splitting the tyre a bit. I put some dunlop spmaxx's on it and now i can accelerate out of a wet corner with no trouble and am totally comfortable on the great ocean road and the black spur in all conditions at most speeds. It handles a hell of a lot better. Down side is there about $300 a tyre. I got all mine for $300 for 4 because of discounts. I really suggest you stay away from nankangs, unless u want them just to shred and hoon on, there a huge joke in the tyre industry

ahh im dying here, anyyy help at all would be appreciatedddd