shogun!

The new fixture for the Bosch Fuel Pumps http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiSrbXiZmwY&NR=1

The Touch screen for the computer is mounted in the centre console and the Digital Climate Control has also found its final place

Platinum Blue Metalic

At last, a major problem has been solved. Earlier I used Aeromotive fuel filters with 10 micron filter elements and they blocked up very fast due to the small filter housings. I had to install filter elements with a coarser mesh and I did not feel particularly well about it. Thanks to Creatix I got hold of much larger and very hearty AEM filters that remove all particles down to 7 microns without being blocked. Very good! They also flow through a proper amount of fuel. How about 2800 liters/h at 3.1 bar I like!

Some tiny bits in place

ChargeSpeed front fenders from BadAssParts test mounted prior to the paint job.

A brief summary of what I'm working on regarding aerodynamics of the car:

A bracket to relocate the license plate and a ignition key light

Thanks mates here are some more ChargeSpeed supplied by BadAssParts. Test mounted prior to paintjob.

Some OEM-parts I picked up today: Holder for the license plate lights. Fasteners and washers for the camshaft brackets (total 24pcs of each). Over pressure valve and oil filter stud to remove the OEM oilcooler. Fasteners, washers and nuts for the outgoing drive shafts on the diff flanges (total 12pcs of each). Fasteners, washers and nuts for the prop shaft on the ingoing flange on the diff (total 12pcs of each).

The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak. There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it: Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator. Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts. Here it has been dismounted. A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight. In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw). Original stud dismounted. In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block. It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number according to Nissan is 15213-W040A. I have ordered one and will test it to be 100% sure it is the correct part. The valve I will mount in the filter holder. Stud, 15213-W040A, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed). Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them. I use them all. Oilcooler thermo plate. Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate. Filter relocation kit.

Mounted some parts. It will be ok but as shown, there is lots to adjust regarding wheel alignment and I will also adjustthe track both front and rear. At the rear, there is plenty of Camber but still a slight gap between the tyre and the fender. At the front, there is also some space for adjustments. I will decide how much I want to slam the car when the coilovers have settled. The steering angle has improved with the spacers mounted on the inner tie rods.

It turned out very well with the flush valves on the new wheels I use for the R-tyres. Pictures to be posted after next round in the garage. I will have to remember to always keep the air fill adatper in the car from now on. When the tyres were mounted on to the rims, they had to pump them up to more than 4 Bar of pressure. It sounded like a big cannon in the tyre shop. My poor ears...I wasn't prepared at all... at least not when the first tyre went on.

I have ordered an oil filter stud from Nissan to be 100% sure they gave me the correct part number. It should arrive within a couple of days.

NP mate.

Yesterday I was informed the new R-tyres are on their way and they should be delivered to me today. The flush fit wheel air valves have also been shipped. Soon time to get it all assembled and balanced. Exciting I have that kind of valve on my other wheels too and they bring a nice touch to it.

The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak. There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it: Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator. Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts. Here it has been dismounted. A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight. In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw). Original stud dismounted. In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block. It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number is 15213-V0711. Stud, 15213-V0711, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed). Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them. I use them all. Oilcooler thermo plate. Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate. Filter relocation kit.

Thanks mate. That feedback is worth gold

Bought a large box of oil. (8 l engine oil) Motul 300V Competition 15W-50 Racing lubricant for racing cars (5 l gearbox oil) Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Racing gearbox lubricant 100% Synthetic – Ester based (6 l LSD oil) Fuchs Titan Race Gear 90 LS High Performance Limited Slip Diff Oil (formerly known as Silkolene BOA 90 LS) (1.5 l brake and clutch fluid) Motul RBF 660 Factory Line race brake fluid

Pretty decent rubber for the new rims Semi-slick Federal 595RS-R 235/40/18 front and 265/35/18 rear.

Ouch! Don't know what happened, sort of got me some extra rims

A picture to give you a hint about the size.

It hurt to cut the brand new front bumper, but it had to be done to maximize the cooling. This picture show the opening just before I started working with the epoxy and fibre.

At such a nice price I couldn't resist a new pair of Carbon fiber F1-mirrors from Creatix. Only 114 Grams each :eek: not bad :thumbs: