RBwhatever

I left the pipe on when I fitted it. Once the pod/box and afm comes out you have plenty of room to work with. So I cut the section of the pipe out with a knife while it was still on the car. I then used a bit of wd on the SS pipe to lube it a bit and pushed and twisted it down the intake till it was in far enough. It is tight to get into the intake but not impossible.

Did this mod the other day. Worked out a treat. You can feel its that little bit more responsive, also changed the tone of the induction noise. It's more higher pitched now and a tad louder. And it literally did cost me $5. Good work rev210

If anything your car will be running rich if you've still got the stock ecu.

I don't know how important shims are. Maybe you can make another one or get some off a wreck. You could use a set of vice grips on the line. You should be able to see rubber sections of line in your wheel arch. Clamp it on the rubber.

Yeah just above the factory speakers I think.

Whoa, duplicate thread.

vent for the pipe to plug in? What vent? What pipe? Have you seen your battery? Just get a normal one, or sealed one is even better. The only pipes I see have copper wire down the centre and is wrapped in black or red plastic. Battery usually cost from the $70 - $100 mark, depends on what brand you buy.

I'd be checking the intercooler hoses first if your losing boost. May be a boost leak. Has any work been done on the car recently?

What I described was symptoms of a boost leak. Usually when intercooler pipes were not done up properly. Also the woosh sound instead of the regular bov noise can also be caused by a boost leak. How did you test for leaks? You can do a leak test. What you'll have to do is, 1. take your pod/airbox and AFM off. 2. use a baked bean can (full) and put it into your rubber intake pipe (assuming its still the stock one). 3. tighten up the hose clamp onto the tin creating a seal. 4. Open the throttle body with a brick on the accelerator pedal, so you can read pressure on the boost gauge. 5. take a hose that is plumbed into your intake between the turbo and the plenum or off the plenum itself. 6. Get an air compressor and pressurize the system through the hose and get someone to read the psi on the boost gauge. you only need about 5psi. you can use the compressors at the servos. 7. Listen for a leak. and use soapy water in the spray bottle to find exactly where it is. It is easier to find a boost or pressure leak using this method because the car is not running. If it's not that it may just be your plugs. But usually plugs just cause a hesitation/missfire.

Flushing the fluid isn't too hard. Its good if there's 2 of you doing it. If you get the brake place to flush the fluid, you might as well get them to put the new pads in too.

No, air won't go back in, unless your pulling the pistons out while the nipple is open. close the nipple after you've pushed them back. Bleeding the brakes can give you better feel. If you've got air in your lines it can make it feel squishy. I'd probably use a DOT 4 if were you. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...8054&hl=dot Refer to post No. 6. Sydneykid is a very reliable source.

Does it take a long time to rev out? Kinda gets stuck and feels like the cars not going any quicker? When it boosts, does it hit full boost, then drop back down a few psi? Does it hesitate and backfire?

HKS Cat Back - Well I haven't read much about these, but it can't be bad. Good quality. It's just a cat back. Trust PE 2 Cat Back - Good quality exhaust and not loud. Its just a cat back. JJR Turboback - You also get with this package, A split dump/front pipe and a High Flow Cat. It will be on the load sound as it doesn't have any resonators. Good performance for the price because of the dump/front pipe and high flow cat. Good quality. X-FORCE Turbo Back - You also get with this package, A bell mouth dump/front pipe and a High Flow Cat. It will be quieter than the JJR but should be louder than the PE2. It has a resonator so it will be nice to the ears and the dB meter. Good performance for the price because of the dump/front pipe and High flow cat. Good quality. Note: Changing the dump/front pipe will net you the biggest performance gain. My Pick: Either the JJR or the X-Force. You get more for your $. If I was to buy again: JJR split dump/front pipe with High Flow Cat with the X-force Cat-Back = Performance without being too loud. Extra Note: If buying the X-Force and you don't want it too loud, make sure it has the oval resonator. I believe they came 2 different types. One was oval and the other was a hotdog (louder).

What mods are done to the car? Has it been worked on recently? How long have you owned the car for, or have you just bought it? When your driving, when is it losing boost? What RPM? Does it bog down? Its hard to diagnose problems over the internet. Being specific to all the details is a must

If you want a remap its probably better if you took your car in to get a remap. Otherwise there's piggyback ecu's and standalone units that are more worthy of your money.

Sooo not worth. Ditch your stock ECU and EFI and go for carbies Jks buddy. But yeah, I think this has been covered before

Yeah he probably does have a bit of water in him. 70% actually hahahaha. But yeah seriously, apparently they're are quite good. FC's are harder and more expensive to come across these days. PM URAS and should be able to tell you they're just as good as an FC. I'm not sure if it'll be plug in though. You might have wire it in. FC's are good cos they're just unplug, plug in. If you want the stock back in, unplug, plug in.

What? Might be better if you describe your what your problems are and list what mods you've done. Then help will be on your way

You should be able to smell it too.

Safc2 is to help with the AFR's. I'd go for a PFC over a Safc, Its better in every way. You can alter fuel, timing, etc. And yes it will help with HP, economy and response. You upgrade AFM's when they can't handle/register the amount of airflow going through them. They're there as for the ecu to be able to make the correct air fuel mixtures for you.

Yeah, GTR stuff isn't cheap. It costs more than a R32/3/4 gts-t/gt-t in every department. So $366 ain't bad at all.

You can push the pistons back. You have to first clamp the rubber line going to the calipers and then open the bleed nipple and catch whatever fluid comes out (don't reuse it). You should be able to push the pistons back fairly easily if you do this. I was changing my pads and didn't do the above, I ended up backing the fluid up the lines and through the master cylinder and managed to damage a seal. Not good.

I've got the Silastic brand one, and after its dry or set you can literally rub it off with a swipe of the hand. As for the best brand to get, Loctite is probably the best you can get, and you pay for it too.

Gasket silicon is your friend. $8 for a tube. You can pick it up at repco. It just be a matter of applying a bead of silicon and refitting the sump while its still pliable. Also before applying the silicon, it's probably an idea to give the surface a light sand down. Make sure you clean all the filings out of the sump afterwards.

The fluid backs up the lines. After doing all four of the calipers it was enough fluid to overflow the resovior.