RBwhatever

I'm going to get a set of these for my next set. I was quoted: 225/50/R16 $200ea fitted 205/55/R16 $200ea fitted I'm going to get 205's cos the 225's (nexen's) I have at the moment, the sidewalls move around too much when cornering.

Ditch the pod and tie a stocking over the afm hahaha

K&N Pod. They don't foul your afm with oil either. They only do if you get over enthusiastic when your re-oiling. Even then if you do over oil just spray electrical contact cleaner over the afm element after you've taken the car for a drive. (allows the larger portions of oil to be ingested, leaving the rest in the filter.)

You shouldn't re-gap iridium or platinum plugs yourself. They are actually iridium or platinum coated, not solid iridium or platinum. If you re-gap these plugs you take off or chip some of the iridium or platinum coating thus reducing the life of the plug severely. If you want a certain gap with these plugs they should be bought pre-gapped. The reason you can re-gap copper plugs to your hearts content is because they're solid copper, no coatings. I'm going to go against the grain here and agree with superspit. I'd rather not be changing my plugs every 5000kms. I've replaced my plugs with Iridiums and could not be happier. I even used the factory specs for the plugs which is 1.1mm gap and heat range 5 (oh no! he used heat range 5 and a 1.1mm gap, that's a sin!). I have all the stage 1 mods on my car, exhaust, 12psi, Pfc, fmic, blah, blah blah and I have not experienced the misfiring that everyone complains about. To add I also have a 93 R33 and still have the stock coilpacks. And yet you'd think I'd definitely have a problem because they're so old. I hate it when someone says "you should always gap your plugs down to .8mm and use a colder plug" when its totally not necessary. In my personal opinion, use the factory specs for your plugs. If you experience problems, then use plugs with a .8mm gap and colder heat range, and copper if you must. But for those with regular track visits, I can understand using .8mm gaps colder heat range and copper. But if you don't visit the track, why should you? If you don't have problems with the factory spec plugs, why change it? (rhetorical question) Cheers

X-force turbo back mild steel system. 3" bell mouth dump pipe/front pipe --> 3" Xforce high flow cat --> 3.5" Cat back with oval resonator --> 3" cannon. Not loud and drony, but just nice. Not over the dB limit.

Nope.

I'm judging by the others answers, the M3.

Ummm, GTR. Hahhaaahaahaha but no seriously, Why? I bet most of us don't even know what a E36 BMW M3 looks like.

Actually the reason is, because we are reading and not actually hearing another person talk, it simulates a person pausing for a moment during his sentence. This pausing can indicate the person is thinking during his sentence. Or alternatively, it can indicate an unfinished sentence. This can be due to the person typing having either: 1. Further thoughts on the matter but not typing them. 2. Not knowing what else to say/type or is still thinking. 3. Leaving his sentence open to someone else to complete, or in other words, leaving a window open for the next person to continue on on the same thought. Eg. Little Johnny yelled out to his father "But dad I......but I didn't.......I think I didn't.......maybe I did do it." Or "If Johnny did do it, maybe it was because he wanted to, and for no other reason..." I hope that makes things easier to understand Ok kids that's our English lesson for today. Anyway back on topic. SR20 vs RB20....

Its not a fuse is it?

Weird. Mine didn't. It idled a bit higher than normal but consistant, and also on idle your could see black smoke coming out of the exhaust, hence really rich. I forgot to plug it back in after fitting the cooler.

The skyline engine manual specify 170psi + or - 5psi for the RB25

check your AFM is clean and plugged in properly. The car runs mega rich if its not plugged in. Could pay to clean the connection too.

Turbo seal has gone?

I put mine where the abs is supposed to be. I'm assuming you have a S1, so most likely you won't have abs therefore there is a rather large cavity to put 'whatever' into. If not and you do have abs, then most guys find some room towards the front of the engine bay beside the radiator somewhere.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=surging The last post was the most informative i think. Something to do about too much air being pushed to the motor thus causing surge while on boost.

Chhhhhhheeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrssss Blitz!

He's said he has a PFC in his other thread. If you put an atmo bov on you can tune out all the negative effects that it has on the stock ecu.

Bolts on buddy. Stock 33 turbo second hand for $350-$450. Highflow for about $1000-$1500.

Yeah they've been around for a bit. Not intended to drive on the road, don't think it would be very safe. They're only to go onto show cars, and roll around on them for a few meters or so.

Well this thread didn't get off on the right foot.

I think it's a pretty good guide. Have a talk to Munna1 as he was the one who wrote it. I based my Stage 1 Mods off of his guide and found them to be fairly accurate. There will be differences from car to car of course depending on condition etc. He wrote that guide off of his own experience as he built his own R33 so he is merely stating what needs to be done to achieve that level of power. I appreciate he went to the trouble of writing these guides for our benefit. Edit: He hasn't been online for a little while, so might be a little hard to catch him.

Power FC

Yeah as Basti said. You need: Dump pipe/front pipe (comes as 1 piece). Or alternatively you can purchase a separate dump pipe and separate front pipe. High flow cat converter (if you don't have one already). If the cat you have has an inlet & outlet smaller than 3inchs it'll be a standard cat. As for the dump/front pipe they come in 2 styles, Bell mouth dump & Split dump. Split is said to be better. I can't say as to which is better as I have a bell mouth dump and have not tried the split. However the bell mouth I fitted made a huge difference. Talk to Just Jap and I'm sure they can work something out for you for a very reasonable price.

Disconnect what you have there and tee into the hose that connects your bov to the plenum. I'm pretty sure that hose you've tee'd into goes to the carbon canister. I've connected mine to the BOV vacuum hose and it works fine. Same boost controller too.