r32matt

Mafia it sounds like your really f**ken Jealous of my RB20! Just becasue your RB25 wont produce that much power on those mods doesnt mean you have to have a cry! And if you actually READ! I wrote that I have a R34 Turbo!! How about you put up your Dyno reading and your Mods and lets see what you get?

Yeah it is running lean but the power is still up there before it starts running lean... I might get some new tyres next week and take it down the 1/4 Mile

Yeah im going to get a new Fuel Pump very soon. Then finish the zorst off with a 3 inch Front/Dump pipe and Hi Flow Cat. Raise the boost to 14psi and get a tune. Should be sweet then

RB20 Power!!!! Dyno Resutls on my Signature 196.4kwrw!!!!

If your talking about Turbo Flutter you can get that sound by just removing your BOV. Aftermarket BOV's do this as well becasue the spring is stronger than a stock BOV, so it only opens up at high boost. Stock BOV's have a soft spring so they open on low boost. When the BOV doesnt open the air bounces off the turbo inside the pipes casuing it to make the Flutter sound. So the when your not running high boost the BOV wont open and you will get the Flutter sound or as you say psstt...ttts...ttts...ttts...ttts..ttts, lol.

Woops! Though I had put up the graph! And it is in rwkw not rwhp!! Its a stock ECU and hasnt been changed, unless the guy before me got it remapped and didnt tell me. Its running a bit lean but its properly because im still running a stock fuel pump. RB20 Power!!!! Was having trouble uploading the pic so the graph is at this link: http://www.photodump.com/viewer/r32matt/DynoResults922.html

Hey, Went down to Malaga in Perth today and got my car put on the Dyno. It was a dyno shoot out day so there was alot of other cars getting tested. The other R32 Skylines were pulling around 140kw max and my mates R32 with a RB25DET pulled 197kw. The mods I have on my car are: R34 Turbo running on 12psi FMIC K&N Air Pod Lighten Flywheel 3 and 1/2 inch Cat back And i Pulled 196.4kw!!!! Everyone couldnt believe it so we tested it again and same result! Im very happy with my RB20!!!!

Yeah you wont hear the flutter as much on high boost. You will get a big WOOSH sound instead. I get heaps of flutter when my turbo is spooling up and I let go at about 8psi. Im running a R34 turbo on 12psi in my R32. Yeah running a HKS SSQBV would be sweet, but it costs money, lol. Coke can is what I used, lol mmmm gtst I would swap you my standard BOV for one that flutters. It sounds really good and opens at low boost so no fluttering.

Hey, Blocked off my BOV last night. Was so easy and works well. I don’t feel any lag in between gears and it still drives smooth. I get a lot of flutter when just driving around but when i give it full boost I can barely hear the flutter because of the big Whoosh! that the turbo lets off. Kinda still sounds like a BOV with flutter, lol. Im using: K&N Pod FMIC To block off your BOV you just need to: Unplug the small tube going from the Manifold to the BOV and block off the Manifold side. (If the Manifold side isn’t blocked the engine will run very bad.) Take off the BOV - After taking off the BOV you can replace it with a metal plate that is the same shape as the BOV which blocks off the hole. Or you can cut out some Aluminium the same shape as the BOV from a Coke can. Then just put the Aluminium over the hole and put the BOV back on. This makes it look standard plus the BOV is blocked. The only other pipe is the one that goes back into the Air intake. You can leave this on or take it off and block up the hole in the air intake. And when it comes down to arguments on the BOV there are only a few things you need to know. The BOV is there for Noise - Stops Flutter and the Big Whoosh noise. The BOV is there for Turbo Life - Helps the turbo live longer but nothing to worry about. You do not need another ECU or a aftermarket ECU. If you want flutter or a different noise instead of the BOV. Just block it off and start driving. It works well and I haven’t noticed any Lag or problems with my engine. Ive also added a Diagram on how to Block off your BOV

Ok, so I took my car for a drive last night. When cold it was driving fine, nothing wrong. Once it heated up a noise started coming from the engine. So im thinking now that its not my dash. The noise comes on during boost (3000revs) but if i put my foot down the noise or rattling goes away at around 5000revs and up. But if i dont put my foot down i can hear the rattling sound up to high revs. Ive reved out my car all the way to 5000 revs without letting the turbo kick in and the motor made no noise at all. Plus the motor sounds fine when idling. Sounds like the rattling starts off slow and then with the more revs it gets quicker until u cannot hear it becasue either the engine is getting to loud or the rattling is going so fast that i cant hear it anymore. During the day today everything was fine, it was reving out beautiful with no noise at all. So im thinking that maybe my turbo is loose but that doesnt explain why its only happening during the night. Sounds so crap at night and so smooth in the day. Could it be a loose turbo or is there another reason for what is happening? All help would be great!!! Thanks

My oil pressue gauge was sitting around the 4 mark but after I put in new Oil the pressure gauge has dropped alot and without acceleration the pressure is really low on the gauge. I just thought the pressure dropped becasue I put in Fully Synthetic Oil. hmmmm

Hi, Im getting a rattling noise at night either in my engine bay or my dash. I can only hear the noise when the boost kicks in and the rattling sounds faster with the more revs the car does. It sounds like either - The engine is rattling, Turbo is rattling, Dash is rattling. Im really not sure, sometimes the noise comes from the left side which is where the turbo is and sometimes it comes from the middle. The noise doesnt usally happen in the day but every now and then it does. It also seems that the noise only appears when the car is warm. When im driving the car for the first 5mins or so i cannot hear anything but then once the car is warm it starts to make a noise. Could it be that once the engine bay is warm my Pod is sucking in Heat and casuing Detonation? Or that something is loose in my turbo? but noise doesnt happen all the time.. Or that the inside of dash is really loose and im getting random noises? My mods are: 3 - 1/2 inch Cat back R34 Turbo - Running on 12psi Lighten Flywheel K&N Air Filter Pod FMIC Any Ideas or Help would be great!!!

I always thought that running cold air into the Air Pod was a advantage than running hot air? Why would everyone have boxes and heat sheilds to stop the hot air from going in then? The turbo will heat up the air but if the air is already cold it shouldnt heat up as much as hot air would......

hmm

Hi, I bought this controller a few months ago now but havent been using it becasue of my coils. Now I have my coils fixed I have installed it and running at 12psi. I was expecting the turbo to spool alot faster but I have noticed no difference. My turbo still hits full boost around 3800revs. I have a R34 turbo from a RB25 running on my RB20. The boost also drops from 12psi to 11psi at around 6700revs. Is this normal and is there a way to get my turbo spooling faster? Also does it matter how long the hose is from the turbo and the wastegate? Thanks!

Ok, so am i looking to get the ECU tuned/remapped to make my car run smooth with modifications or should i get it dyno tuned? The way i think is that dyno tune is for power and a ECU tune is to get the car running smooth? Can anyone tell me if im right? Also if there is a good place in Perth to get the ECU tuned? Thanks!!

Yeah the Remap sounds like a good idea. I just want my ECU tuned so its running smoothly with the modifications i have. Does anyone know of a good place in Perth to get this done? I know Xspeed will Dyno tune for $185 a hour, but is that the same as mapping the ECU?

Just talked to the guys at "Tenagah Motorsport" and they said they would do a EOM ECU diagnoses which checks for faults. But that will not tune the ECU. Is this worth doing? I guess it will tell me if my engine is running bad or if it is a coil or spark plug but I thought if the engine was running bad that they would tune the ECU to get it running smooth. The EOM ECU diagnoses costs $150 and a dyno tune could be anywhere from $300 to $600. Way to much for me right now.

Hi, Im going to get my ECU tuned on Friday as my car isnt running perfect. When on idle the car misses alot and sounds pretty bad but when i drive it on the road it never misses at all. Sometimes though at high revs when giving it full throttle I hear a rattling noise which sounds like pinging or the inside of my dash rattling, i cant be sure, lol. Or banging noise coming from the engine, but im not sure if that is the engine or something is loose inside the engine. Will the ECU tune fix these problems? Like pick up if the engine is pinging or not running right? I cant afford a Dyno Tune right now, lol. Ive had problems with my coils before where the engine was popping at high revs. So i sealed the coils and I havent had the problem since. Any help or ideas would be great! My Mods Are: K&N Air Filter 3.5 Inch Cat Back Lighten Flywheel FMIC R34 Turbo - Running on 12psi with Turbotech Boost Controller Thanks!

Yeah the standard boost is 10psi and im wanting to run 12psi. Im gonna try putting the boost controller back on today again. Can I just cut the hose and add the Controller in or is there something else I will have to cut? Last time I put it on I couldnt get the boost gauge to read over 10psi. Thanks

Hi, I have a R32 and im running a R34 Turbo on my RB20DET. I installed the boost controller on my car a few weeks ago but I couldnt get it working proberly. The first time I took the car for a run the boost wasnt coming on much at all and the car felt held back. I then turned up the boost and could feel the difference but my boost gauge wouldnt read above 10psi. I turned it up more but still nothing changed. I was reading through this post and people with R34's were having the same problem. I was reading something about disconnecting the solinoid but I wasnt sure what that was. Does anyone know what my problem could be and how I could fix it? Thanks!!

Hey, I have a RB20DET and im running a R34 Turbo. Im running 10psi on it at the moment but will be raising the boost soon. Full boost cuts in on mine around 3000-3500revs. When I had my Turbotach Maunual boost controller on I was running 13psi boost and the full boost was coming in at around 3000revs. I took the boost controller off casue i damaged the coils and had to fix them, will be putting it back on soon though, lol.

Thanks guys, Yeah I will get the Dump pipe and Front pipe in 1. Hopefully I will get a 2psi boost or more. Will the standard CAT be a problem? I wanna get a hi-flow but cant afford it at the moment, any cheap way of making my standard one hi flow? Im running 10psi at the moment which is standard. Will the boost be stable when running at 12psi or more? or should i put on my boost controller? (Turbotech Manual Boost controller). Im running: FMIC R34 Turbo K&N Air Filter 3 and a half inch form cat back Lighten Flywheel Extreme Clutch Thanks

Hi, Im looking at buying a dump pipe and front pipe for my RB20DET. Im running a R34 turbo and was wondering which system would be best. I can either get the seperate dump and front pipe or the the dump pipe and front pipe in one. Buying them seperate is alot more expensive but I was wondering if it would be worth it? I was also wondering how much the boost will raise once i put the dump pipe on? Thanks Matt

Hi, I just bought a GFB boost controller off my mate and im not sure which way it should go on. It has arrows pointing in one direction but im not sure if that is pointing towards the turbo or the wastegate?? Can anyone help with this please? Thanks