jantolis
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Posts posted by jantolis
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Looking for standard rb26 injectors in working condition to replace the leaking ones in my 32gtr.
Would prefer to pick up from around the Sydney area.
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Are the injectors still available?
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I had to do this for 2 months while waiting to get the cash to get a new clutch and then actually getting the clutch installed. You get used to it and end up being a better driver afterwards. Even with a clutch i tend to rev match anyway.
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Hey Guys,
I have a problem that when my car is driven in first and second after it is warmed up i get a whinning noise.
I recently changed the gearbox oil to redline lightwieght shockproof. I thought that maybe i didn't put in enough oil in because it's not even 4l so i put an extra 1l in yesterday and it's still doing it.
There is no oil leaking anywhere as well so i have no idea why it's doing this.
Any suggestions on what it could be??
cheers,
Johnny
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I've heard from people they said that there should be no turbo lag since its a twin turbo because it uses 1 at lower revs and 1 at higher revs.
Not in a gtr.
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Go to jade automotive.
(02) 96067699
??? camden valley way(at the caltex servo)
Jason who runs it is on the forums here as well sometimes. Always has a few GTR's in his garage.
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Yeah running an oiled air filter was the problem with mine.
If you don't oil them up alot then they are fine but if you put to much the oil gets onto your afm's. I just cleaned mine up and they are working like new. I also made sure that the filter isn't over oiled anymore.
I might just get a dry filter though so it has no chance of happening agian, or maybe just splurge on the ARC super induction box. But they use dry filters anyway i think.
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I also ripped out the black pad that sits in the bottom half of the airbox, must be there to deaden sound a bit, don't need that
I was wondering what that foam is there for as well. If it's just for sound i might pull it out as well.
Good to hear everything is working good with your car.
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You may have been a little enthusiastic with the oil.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using K&N filters. They have a long and established history of being tried and proven to be one of the best filters money can buy that gives you the best flow and filtration. Anyone that says K&N are rubbish will be heartily laughed at. (ps. jantolis this statement/s is not directed at you).
Use the filters properly and maintain them properly and they are worth their weight in gold.
lol.... yeah i think i was just a bit enthusiastic. It's just that it said to make sure that every little ripple thing should be oiled. I think i was going to slow when spraying it on. I know this for sure becuse when i take my air filter out i still get little pools of oil building up in the air box. Might have to try again when i get a chance.
When i first got it and it was factory oiled the filter was absolutley awesome. Definatley still recommend it even after my bad oiling dilema.
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I have BKR7E's in my car and they are at 0.8mm gap but i had the same plugs gapped at 1.1mm with 1bar boost and they were fine.
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I tried the electrical cleaner and just put in my afm's and they seem to work perfectly again. Will try go for a bit of a longish drive just to make sure they are working properly and don't break down again. It must be the air filter that stuffed it up. What else could it be??
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If it won't rev over 2500rpm then its usually afm. That fixed my problem. The problem was a bit masked though because my plugs were gone to shit because of all the spluttering and then it started to idle roughly.
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As keymaker mentioned earlier in this thread you spray the element with electrical contact cleaner. If that doesn't fix them, the other thing that could be wrong with them is that you have dry/cracked contacts between the meter and the plug. There are threads on how to fix this, but a quick summary. If you open up the square cover on the AFM and re-solder the pins, it may fix the problem. Then re-silicone the cover back on to waterproof it. Did this on my brothers car to fix them.
Yeah i have already opened the afm's up and resoldered the joints to the plug. Might try the electrical cleaner tomorrow morning.
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My afm's died shortly after i re-oiled my filter. Maybe this is why they got stuffed(might have only been 1 of them that got stuffed). Is there anyway to fix this by maybe spraying them with something??? Just something incase the afm's aren't dead.
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My afms were the problem. I got a second hand set and it runs fine now. I'll probably put my 'old' new coils back in and get some new spark plugs on the weekend.
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changed my coils and spark plugs. The spark plugs were completley stuff but thats probably because all of the over fueling and crap that built up on it while i was trying to fix it most probably.
Well the car idles fine. It's only when it hits 2500rpm that it just starts missfiring. This is an afm problem isn't it???
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Yeah next weekend i'm going to be trying my old coils which were still working and spark plugs which i know were still working. Failing that i'm stumped. I guess it's mechanic time.
I can't see it being the coils though because they were brand new less than 500kms ago. Might be my spark plugs because I bought 1.1mm gapped ones and had to gap further according to my gapping tool which i had bought. Maybe the gapping tool was dodgey(i did get the cheapest possible). Therfore it 'could' be the spark plugs. These ones are probably stuffed now anyway because it's been running so rich and passing fuel through.
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Well no luck for me. Started the car after resoldering and cleaning afms' and all i got was spluterring and a nice smell of unburnt fuel out the exhaust. Looks like it could be something else or a completley stuffed afm.
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Hey guys i've taken my afm's out and have just gone over the solder joints to make sure the connections are good. I have 1 questions though. How do i clean the afm's though. do i just spray some brake cleaner or carby cleaner inside the afm's or where?? Just straight through the mesh covering???
Cheers,
Johnny
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Yeah my idle went up to 2200rpm when it was time to get it fixed as i could no longer use the clutch.
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Yeah i've had that happen to me twice.
I had a very heavy twin plate and i think that may have contributed to the cracks. New lighter clutch and haven't had a problem.
You mean the booster don't you???
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I checked my ECU code and got 55 which is all ok. My battery is dead now from not driving it in ages so i can't try and start it anyway and see if it will run.
Might try something this weekend if i get time like opening up the afms and re soldering the joints.
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Yeah installing turbos ain't that cheap. Can't remember how much i paid. It was less than $800 i'm sure but not that much cheaper. maybe $600 + gaskets.
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Just get some copper plugs and see. They are only about the $20-$25 mark for a set and if it is still bad then its probably coils.
Wtb: Rb26 Injectors
in Wanted to Buy
Posted
Thanks guys.
Got some yesterday from another member.