bombastic

Hey guys Since I got my R33 I haven't worried about this as it only happens very occasionally, maybe once a month. It feels as if I just put my foot on the brake for a fraction of a second, then it keeps going as normal. It can happen while I'm cruising in 5th (not accelerating), or accelerating hard in 2nd, etc. It happens at low RPM's, around 2000 say. I changed the plugs when I bought the car, gapped to 0.8 iirc. Any ideas what it could be? I want to do a track day so I'm keen to fix it. Thanks!

Hey, you were right, it's a line of sealant, just looked like a weld to me, but touching it I found that it's soft-ish. Thanks!

Nope sorry

Bump!

Item: R33 factory intercooler Age: 12yrs Condition: Great, the usual few fins slightly bent (see pics) Price: $25 To Fit: R33 GTST Comments: Pickup or post Item: R33 (s2) factory full exhaust plus aftermarket cat Age: 12yrs Condition: Looks fine to me but I'm no expert. Sounded fine before removed, very quiet. Surface rust as you would expect (see pics) Price: $70 To Fit: R33 GTST Comments: Pickup only Location: Caringbah, NSW Contact: 0422 951 643 or PM

Hey guys On my R33 there are some welds between bits of the chassis, right where the strut brace will bolt on. If I install it then the parts of the brace which secure to the car won't sit flush with the chassis due to the welds (~1-2mm high). Should I get some washers to space it out a bit so there's no force on the welds? Or just screw it down hard and ignore it? Can take pics if the above doesn't make sense. Cheers!

Thanks, friend plugged his gauge in and it showed -18psi or so at idle. Then I found a crack in the stock gauge hose, just cut the end off and reattached, no problem now

Does it sound like the starter is struggling to turn it over? If so I would check the battery voltage and if it seems low take it to battery world or something and have it tested. I had a problem with my battery going flat and found out the stereo was causing it... drawing current all the time. You can test to see if your battery is being drained while the car's off by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and putting your multimeter in series to check how much current is coming out. Don't switch the ignition to any sort of "on" while it's connected like this, or you'll likely kill your multimeter and melt some wires in the process. Make sure all doors are shut (boot included - you'll need long leads to get to your multimeter through the gap in the boot), and then wait for the light around the ignition key hole to turn off after closing all doors. If the current reads in the hundreds of milliamps then it's worth pursuing this further. I don't know much about alternators, though I've read that a healthy alternator should put out 14.4V or more (prolly need to rev engine and look at the reading).

Bump... seems to have increased to about -3 now... any takers?

Hey guys Recently my stock boost gauge has been showing weird values. It basically won't go any lower than the -3.5 mmHg mark. Even under engine braking, where it used to go down near -7, it now won't go below -3.5. It also idles at -3.5. If the actual pressure was -3.5 though, I'm thinking it wouldn't idle at the usual 800rpm, but would idle much higher due to there being more air going in; however the idle is fine. Above that -3.5 mark, it appears to be accurate - at full boost it's showing what it always did. I know the needle's not stuck at that -3.5 point too, because as soon as I turn the car off it goes down past the -7 mark. So I'm thinking maybe there is a leak where the gauge takes it's reading from? What else could it be? Hope the above makes sense. Ideas would be much appreciated!

Yes I first filled it with turps several times and shook it around, left it sitting awhile, then used metho to get rid of any residue. Honestly I didn't expect any improvement and don't see why it would improve (well not noticeably anyhow). Except if you are boosting it for long enough that the stockie gets heat soak which I don't really do... The reason I got it was to be on the safe side.

Haha... I felt no difference after putting on 34 SMIC. Didn't really feel a difference when I installed 3" turbo back either! Maybe I just need a tune. What engine management you running now Sid?

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I've just started having the same problem on my R33. One thing I've noticed is when the pump primes it now makes a kind of groaning noise. When I first got the car it was pretty quiet. Also, I think the oil light stays on till it starts idling properly, don't know if this is normal or not (only changed oil 3000km ago and dipstick level is fine).

I will be installing Xenon headlights shortly, and will probably follow this guide so that the Xenon's stay on when high beams are on, as Xenon's don't like being switched off then on again without being allowed to cool down. However, this method would still mean the low beams switch off for a fraction of a second when switching between low and high beams. I'm assuming this would not be good for them, but I'd be interested to hear from someone who knows for sure. As yet I haven't heard of a way to keep them on during the switching time, so I put on my robe and wizard hat thinking cap... My idea is to connect a capacitor in parallel with the ballast supply, so that the ballast draws power from the capacitor during the switching period. I did some calculations and came up with a required capacitance of about 150mF (assuming 200ms switching time). This would require 3X 5.5V supercapacitors in series, but I don't know if supercapacitors can discharge quickly enough to power such a low impedance load (around 4 ohms) at high current (3A). You guys reckon it'll work? Or have any better ideas? I can go into more detail if I haven't made myself clear. Update: I've since had another idea, which is easier and more practical than big capacitors. It would also be separate from the original guide on how to have hi+lo beams on at once. It would involve two relays. The first relay's control is the power which normally goes to the low beams. This relay will switch battery +12V. The second relay's control is the accessory wire (which I believe comes on when you turn the ignition to just before "ON"). This second relay switches the output of the first relay. The output of the second relay is then connected to the ballast supply, and also back to the input of the first relay. So when you turn the low beams on, it connects +12V to the second relay. Then, if the key is turned to the right position, it connects the +12V to the ballast input, and back to the control of the first relay. So, when you switch to high beams, the first relay remains switched on. So the only way to get your lights to turn off again is to turn off the car. With my bad terminology, the above explanation is probably difficult to understand... if there is any interest then I can elaborate/do a sketch. Downsides of this method... the key has to be in the ignition to turn the lights on, and you can't turn the lights off without turning off the car. Personally, I don't sit in my car without the keys and turn the lights on... and, I have a turbo timer so if I really have to switch the lights off I can do it without turning off the engine, I would just toggle the key off, and back on. Also... have to find the accessory wire somewhere and run it through. Advantages... no need for expensive capacitors. Possibly easier than original tutorial... Update 2: Oops... just thought of something else, kind of a hybrid of the two ideas. Fixes the downsides of the second idea. Involves small capacitors on the relay controls to hold them closed during switching from low to high beams. Anyway I probably shouldn't be using the forum to brainstorm, I didn't mean to initially but seems to be what I'm doing

Watcha mean by "mount ballast"? Where / how? Cheers

Thanks for the writeup! However... I tried this today and failed First, I dented the chassis rail with a stand. I thought the chassis rail was supposed to be tough enough to put a stand under. Where is a good place to put stands? Then, I couldn't get the filler plug out. I had about 40cm of leverage but it just wouldn't budge. Just to be sure... it's anticlockwise to undo, like everything else, right? Would it be OK to use a hammer on my lever to get it started?

*Subscribes* Interested to see how much extra it will be with tyres.

How is road visibility, angle/dispersion compared to original lights?

I look forward to seeing pics! Which colour temp did you get? Also, did you do any funky wiring with the high beams so you don't have to wait 30 seconds between switching high beams on and off? I was thinking a chunky capacitor wired in to the ballast's supply combined with a mod like this would allow the xenon's to stay on even during the switching time from low to high beams. I think there is a simpler tutorial but it involves cutting existing wiring...

Just a few questions... 1. Are the H1's a direct swap in for R33 GTST, any modifications required? 2. Have you seen them in action? 3. What is the wattage? 4. Any warranty? 5. What brand are they? 6. Why so cheap compared to shop prices? Thanks! Edit: I've also heard that H.I.D.'s can be a bad idea for some car's... any idea how they go in the series 2 r33? I don't want to blind people

I'll take it

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...713&hl=beep

Yeah... it would be nice if it only beeped when the lights were on. I'm gonna have a look for it, might do a little mod so the lights have to be on for it to get power.

Yay I found the culprit! The little light which illuminates the keyhole for the ignition. It actually turns off if all doors are shut for longer than 10 seconds... but silly me always had the boot open when I was doing tests. If Nissan was a bit more descriptive with their fuse names then I wouldn't have wasted so much time, who woulda thunk that little light would come from the tail lights fuse... So my actual current draw is 50mA with all doors shut. In theory it should take something like 30 days to discharge from a full charge so I figure this is OK! Note: I didn't actually go looking for this "problem" for fun I found it when I was diagnosing a bigger actual fault.

Hey guys, I have 100mA leak on the TAIL L fuse (engine bay fusebox), when the car is off. The only things I know which run off this fuse are the parker lights, and the lights that illuminate the rear rego plate. I've tried unplugging all these and none seem to be the cause. Does anyone know what else runs off this fuse? I don't particularly fancy paying an auto electrician $100+ to fix it so if I can't find the problem I'll probably just chuck a relay in to disable that circuit when the ignition is off. Any advice or help would be appreciated! Update: I just found more stuff which comes on the TAIL L fuse: - The beeping noise to tell you your lights are on if the door is open. - Front parkers - Dash lights So if I used ignition as an activator for a relay, then I would lose the ability to know if I've left my lights on... hmm