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anthonymcgrath

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Everything posted by anthonymcgrath

  1. I'm just looking at this wiki and i would hazard I guess I actually need -12 AN ?!! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread I'm totally lost with this now - the myriad of information like AN, NPT, JIC etc is just labrynthine this chap posted up a bit of info on here, but thats losing me too... I cant even find out what a 2 bolt oil drain is for example... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Si...p;hl=oil+return
  2. yeah I need to adjust how they're seated - that pic is a bit old now. It'll be free of the exhaust side of the turbo soon enough and if I can protect them then I'll do my best. I'm looking at purchasing a turbo jacket anyways. its not so much the oil return pipe I'm worried about as the fittings - I've read all kinds of bits about how the thread in the block is tapered or something. I'm just a little in the dark about it all. Basically I would need: -ATP oil return flange for the turbo -10 AN -gasket for flange -piping (braided or metal) - 1" or 3/4" -10 AN female fitting on the end of the pipe that sorts the side that bolts to the turbo I think... ...but then I'm in the dark about what comes off the block? What thread pitch and what size bolt will that oil return fitting on my engine be? If I know this I can get the adaptor that will fit in my block and have the other side of the oil return line fitted with the correct female end?
  3. hey guys wondering if anyone can help me here with the oil return a friend of mine sent me this link to ATP turbo - I'm tempted to order it for my gt3076... piccy below... Oil Return Flange with integrated -10 Flare for GT15 Through GT35R If I ran with that, can anyone tell me what thickness I'd need my oil return pipe? I dont want to order it too thin. I THINK its a 3/4" pipe like a heater hose but I dont know if thats right or not? on the end of it I would need a -10 AN female screw fitting to screw onto that oil return flange. However.. on the other side I'm not so sure. I've been told I can unscrew the fitting on my block below... ...and then fit another fitting but I dont know what size it would be really. I'm also concerned because the pitch for the oil feed adaptor into my block was slightly different from the one on the turbo. so I think to sum up I need to know: 1 what thickness of oil return line to go for? 2 what fitting I need in the block for the oil return. any advice for this would be brilliant guys - you've all been massively helpful as it is and theres a fonte of knowledge on this site with you guys mostly having done this conversion far more than the uk has heh! ta ant
  4. ah I imagine my own turbo might have done the same then if it wasn't for the T4/T3 adaptor plate welded on heres a coupla pics for you as you requested thru pm mate: from the front... reckon it would have fouled on rocker covers too... cylinder head had to come off thanks to the stubborn manifold studs.. turned out 2 valves needed sorting and it needed a slight skim n refresh... this is my wifes fmic piping! She's rather pleased about it as you can see lol! my water feed line passing underneath... the adaptor/restrictor in my turbo - not sure if I need a washer in there to space it out altho I was told it mates up to the oem restrictor in the turbo...
  5. yeah v.weird but the manifold I have was a T4 one that I had a T3 flange welded onto but its strange that there's so much room. that said its a 33gtst shell. is it worth me fitting these fire hoses around the lines then? Is there an alternative like some high temp silicon hose maybe? my wife is dancing to spanish music around me as I type this hehehehe!
  6. @rad32 I dont have any heat proofing on my lines but they're braided? are they really going to suffer that much? My oil feed also runs down between two manifold runners also. Your manifold is certainly a tight fit in there - heres the space around mine...
  7. will adjust washers tomorrow thanks thanks mate but I'm fitting a greddy plenum at same time so stock location is no good for me I think unless greddy plenum has take off point for water return line for my top mount turbo? I've been reading the greddy plenum how to on here.... he blocked this line off or returned it to somewhere where water plumbs back in! I think the point where he's plumbed it back in is the same one I'm holding in my video on youtube? my engine prior to plenum fitment on youtube
  8. hi guys I thought I'd update this thread and show my progress... I've got my oil feed & water lines sorted now heres a few pics below. theres plenty of play and space in the lines so I can route them around the downpipe or under it whatever I need really... just interested in this one... I'm not sure whether I can tighten this fitting down because theres a restrictor in the turbo. You can see the gap between fitting and turbo. Should I fit a washer. this is my water return line - its coming off the turbo, around the back of the engine but from there I'm a little stuck... any suggestions? The pipe with the green arrow on it I think is the water return line. When I had the front entry on this pipe was connected to the coolant bleed valve (that screw you undo a little after putting coolant in and bleeding the system). Anyhow I think this push fitting just goes into there but not sure?... oh one more thing... my connectors for the water lines have 2 washers... should I put one either side of the banjo bolt adaptor? now I just need to sort out the oil return line. I think the oil return fitting off the td05 turbo I have should fit this turbo and then I just need to make a pipe down to the oil return port on the block.
  9. one of the guys on the uk forum skylineowners.com recommended earls here in the uk. It worked out at £70 for the water lines with AN fitting and adaptors which I really like the sound of vs using the original banjo bolts stuff. I think thats the route to go for me as I like the idea of easy screw/unscrew fittings for the lines. not sure if they can do oil lines too altho I would think I should use the original ones is that right?
  10. aha thanks aleks wow thanks mate - I just got chance to check these pics outside of work on a monitor that doesn't seem to blow out the image lol! I can see the red txt with which pipe is which! Thats a really great help thankyou! so basically the water is travelling upward and the oil is travelling downward do I have that right? really really had best go bed now heh!
  11. thanks guys @wilyawn - thanks for the manual shots - I'll take a look at mine - so the feed is coming from the bottom and the return goes to the top do I have that right? @wytsky - I really dont want to try and tap into any plumbing - I'd rather use the spots on the block if possible. There is indeed a pirtek near me - I'm taking it that I would be able to phone them up and see if they can come out and have a look at the car? @aleks - thanks for the pics - that seems pretty hefty there altho I'm still not 100% sure which are which mainly because I'm not sure which holes the pipes are going to on the turbo ?
  12. I thought I'd be the one to revive this thread but I see dpsycho beat me to it lol! 3d is massive now and most ppl with an interest can pick it up and follow some tutorials and get going. However mastering it is alot more work heh! thought I'd post up some wip pics of my 35gtr I'm working on - I know there's some seriously tight 3d models done by some of the guys but thought I'd share nonetheless... they're still WIPS and being done amidst training for my black belt in wing chun, full time working week on a ps3 game, skydiving at wkends, an rb25 turbo swap/engine rebuild, managing an allotment oh yeah and preparing stuff for the missus' and myself wedding later this week lol! also I dont know if anyone saw this at all.... I decided it'd be amusing to turn my 33gtr model into a transformer.... and a making-of video for anyone interested... hope you like
  13. hey guys I've done some reading on here and found a post or two by a chap called kyle but I'm a little lost here - I originally thought the pipe that ran round the back of the rb25det engine was the water supply but reading on it seems that the water return pipe. Can anyone tell me where the water supply pipe comes from to the turbo please? Also The oil supply/return pipes if thats possible? I'm guessing they're the same as the ones in the manual - however I've got an issue in that I'm fitting top mount turbo (gt3076) so I'm concerned that I'm going to have to make my own lines and tbh I've no idea how to go about that either. any advice and pictures with big 'this one you sockpuppet' you guys could supply would be brilliant thankyou ant
  14. 1.4mm was on it previously but I couldn't get one. spoke to the guys @ RSP here in the uk and they said it would be okay with the turbo.
  15. fitting a garrett gt3076 .86a/r. Engine is forged internals too 87mm pistons, nurspec conrods, calico bearings etc..
  16. its a cosworth 1.5mm head gasket for the nissan skyline. I didn't even know you could get them for it. now I know about the head gasket sealant I'll definitely get some - hopefully shop near me will sell it
  17. well now you've thrown me guys - why is the aerosol stuff for the head gasket necessary? I was under the impression that it would just go straight on?
  18. hey guys thanks for the fast replies - I know its late/early over there heh! Its 11am here in the uk. so loctite is a no no - thats cool with me thankyou! I'll just ensure the studs are finger tight in the block. the only downside is the previous owner fitted the stud kit, so I dont have the instructions otherwise I'd take them as gospel. I've had to take my cylinder head off to have it rebuilt. I've got it back now and my head gasket so I'm ready to go. the studs are in the block at the moment and some feel quite tightly nipped up. It seems to need a 5.5mm allen key and I hilariously dont have one to loosen them off. I think they should be okay tho? I'm going to put the gasket then the cylinder head on then get onto the ARP nuts torquing them up feel free to cut me up guys I just wanna do this right ...I've been posting on skylineowners.com too.
  19. hey guys hope you dont mind me reviving an old thread rather than just starting a new one and just being told to search lol! I'm just about to tackle this job on my own RB25DET at the moment but I wanted to be sure I'm getting it all before I do... So finger tighten the studs into the block. Use loctite to hold them in and allow it to set for 24 hours tighten nuts up to 108nm (80ft/lbs) torque if using MOLY lube. however I'm using oil so I read on this forum that it should be 135nm (100ft/lbs) BUT do it in increments of 20nm in the tightening order specified (middle outwards) halfway through the torque values I've been told to slacken them all off then re-tighten to correct torque - apparently this ensures a correct seating of head gasket and nuts? Can anyone vouch for this?
  20. @ worp3d I'm aiming for 500bhp with the gt3076 - I dont know what psi of boost that is but possibly 1.4 to 1.6 bar (20 to 23 psi) I already have a Z32 afm on. I've heard that they're fine for 500. I also have a Q45 afm sat about the house but thats overkill. RSP over here also said that they are a bitch to map the car with - never seem to give as smooth a signal as a Z32 afm. I want to run the car tho with the bigger Q45 90mm throttle body so not putting the original one on even tho I have an adaptor for my plenum for it. well I figured I wont go any bigger than the in/out diameter on the fmic which is 67mm. I think this is a good size to upgrade to. @rbceffy25 basic rule of thumb is too small and the pipes become a restriction themselves especially as you run more power/boost. Conversely too big and lag occurs. I'm going up from 57mm to 67mm which for the extra 150bhp the car is making with this turbo I think will certainly help. the bigger throttle body will allow more air to enter the plenum faster I'm told. I cant see it making a massive difference tbh but its more a curiosity thing and if it just requires a longer cable and some slight rewiring to get it to work I may as well try
  21. hey all, I'm fitting a gt3076r to my rb25det at the moment. Engine side is all sorted (forged, bored etc..) However my fmic piping is a little shoddy with worn clamps n clips, so I'm looking to size up my fmic piping a little to accomodate the extra power. here's what I have/had at the moment: -arc fmic. Inlet/outlet diameter is 67mm -the pipe coming off the fmic to the throttle body was 57mm -the oem crossover pipe (which I used on the other side) was 63mm. This led down to another 57mm ID pipe. I'm now fitting the turbo & greddy gtr style plenum: -greddy plenum ID is 80mm. -Q45 90mm throttle body to go on. so my question is what size fmic piping shall I run? Looking at what I have then I'm coming off the turbo and into the fmic which will be 67mm. the air then exits that fmic 67mm and has to go into the 90mm throttle body. My own deductions are to run somewhere between 67 - 76mm (3") piping all round but I'm curious on ppl's thoughts. I dont want to fit too small and restrict the pressure but I also dont want to fit too big and cause excess lag altho I wonder how much diffference that would make. I am happy to be corrected, advised and educated so if anyone has any thoughts for a learner in the uk then that would be cool! pics also ultra helpful too! ta ant
  22. hey all I've setup a new thread on the projects section as I've written enough on this thread which someone else wrote doh! it should be up in the next day or so with any luck - I also put it up on skylineowners.com here.. http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...972#post1473972
  23. hey all, thought I'd set up this project page and share the work a friend and me are doing on my car. car is 33gtst spec2 with rebuilt RB25det engine with all the forged goodies. Did a recent compression test and it was spot on so its given me alot of security for my plans - namely fit Garrett GT3076 turbo top mount and get the best from it all in whichever way I can!! so the main parts to fit so far to my car will be: Garrett GT3076R ball bearing turbo Top mount manifold from Owen Developments Tial 44mm ext. wgate Greddy GTR style plenum with Q45 throttle body so this morning got up, breathed a bit, had breks, missus went pilates, I started whipping a few basic bits off the car - filter, afm, piping to turbo and things like that. Realised I were gonna get a bit stuck with various bits so I gave Ian a shout at about half 10, picked him up and he came over to gimme a hand removing the manifold and wotnot. Actually he ended up whipping the intake plenum upper half off (swine of a job even with rachet spanners but not impossible lol). At this point we realised that the plenum bolts underneath were quite loose which will have been the reason it was idling like a little swine (ie: all over the shop). Anyway onward! Ian then went to work on the manifold. two bolts have snapped but shouldn't be agonising to take them off by welding a bolt on. Got old manifold off then while the studs were there we decided to test fit the manifold, turbo and downpipe n wotnot. Its pretty darn close but there's a small issue or two to sort which I'm hoping wont be agonising. anyway enough of my waffle, heres the cool bit - PICS!!!!! Ians mittens test fitting the top mount manifold.. you can see the T4 to T3 flange fitted on the manifold... love this pic - its already taking shape hehehe... turbo was fouling against the power steering reservoir so unbolted it and moved it out the way slightly for the moment. Ian said a gtr one is a good swap and bolts nearer the front of the bay so I think I'll get one o those... here we got the wgate on... We then got the downpipe on which mated to the four bolt flange on the back of the turbo in the pic above. It bolted nicely to the mid section of the exhaust and to the turbo but there seems to be a bit of an issue. The takeoff pipe from the ext wgate seems to not quiiiiiiite mate neatly to the wgate - we're tallking 3 blinking mm here bah! so plans now are to use the propane canister I bought today with the burner thingy and warm up the pipe then 'persuade it with a block of wood and hammer lol! It really doesn't need alot as you can see in the pics, but I'll take my time and make sure the pipe is super hot then knock it into shape. Need to speak to Chris @ Conceptua regarding tackling this.... or should I just blank off the hole and run a screamer pipe hehehe! :dance: again massive thanks to Ian on here for coming over and helping me out - really appreciate it mate. just need to get my old tub up for sale on here now
  24. hey guys thanks for your replies wacky - I had this bubbly lumpy idle before I changed the plugs so I dont think it will be related to those. I swapped them out for some iridium 7's gapped at 1mm. The lumpy idle was still there and also at higher rpm they wouldn't hold up and I got the classic misfire. I Tried regapping them. Did nothing. Then I put iridium8's in gapped @ .8mm and on med/hi boost its been great again but I've had the lumpy idle throughout no matter what I did with the plugs. I'll give my AAC valve a clean tonight defari - I've done this in the past on other skylines but not on this one yet so I'll try that.
  25. hey guys I've a bit of an issue I hope you can help me with. I've seen a few threads on here and done some swotting up (one guy reckons fuel pump) but I thought I'd post up what mine is doing and what I've replaced to get a clearer picture it started about a month back - the car has progressively dropped rpm's on idle and now idles around 500rpm/+-50 If I fired up the car and it goes into cold idle it sits around 1500 or higher depending on what I'm asking the car to do (ie: get in and drive off, or let it warm up sat still) however once the car is warmed up I can approach lights and the rpms will hold ok till the car is stopped then it'll dip very low - around 500rpm. the car will shake slightly, and its popping n bubbling quite a bit too. I find myself pressing the gas pedal a touch to keep the revs up. I dont have aircon so as a test a friend said to switch the aircon button on... this makes the rpm climb to 900 where it should be but the popping n bubbling is still there - at least it doesn't feel like it will stall tho. on normal driving and full power its brilliant - no issues - holds its boost all the way - chased a carrera 4S up the road and found myself backing off a bit. I've put in: -NGK plugs iridium8's (car was mapped on them and the guys said it needed them with the td05 18g under the bonnet making 1.4 bar) -new coilpacks uprated (Rising Sun Performance who are well recognised skyline tuners here in the uk) -new 02 sensor -swapped CAS - no difference -swapped Z32 AFM for another - no difference -checked for boost leaks - none found -fitted a grounding kit recently too (didn't expect that to make any difference tbh) so I'm a bit scuppered now really... I have no idea whats causing this. My mate says his has done it for the last few years but I just cant live with it doing this - it has to be a fixable issue and I really wanna get it sorted. any help would be massively appreciated! thanks ant uk www.anthonymcgrath.co.uk
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