msnismo

You're......... so.................. dropped............... *sulks*

Yep... work denied me the extra time off as its too close to month end Il be leaving Friday morning after all............

hmmmm hopefully VIC rds can clear it up... although it doesn't sound promising. Did you enquire on the compliance plate details? Hopefully they are all above board. Regarding the wheels the centre cap will screw off..... wheel nuts are hiding underneath.

Im in as long as the car is back together... that and the other half doesn't have a huge issue as its his mums surprise 50th *ponders how to get out of it*

Headlights paid for & collected? Can i be on the waiting list puhlease! Also do you have the gearstick surround part of the console?

Me either! Soooo my R33 S1 with no ABS is dangerous with 300rwkw? I thought ABS was for peeps that can't drive.........

Hey guys n gals ! Looking for driver & passenger R33 GTR seats in any condition... well hopefully not too shagged! Possibly R32 GTR seats as an alternative....... or R34 GTR if you are prepared to sell them for R33 GTR prices PM or reply here. Cheers Anna

A friend has the G4's in his 32.... extremely rough ride.. even with the damper all the way adjusted... worse than my Jap spec Teins which are only height adjustable.... Although.. he has never had any issues with them... possibly he hasn't set his up right though.. wouldn't of thought that they would be that stiff!

All my engine bits n pieces are at Pro-Coat atm... Il post some before and after pics when I get them all back later this week I am getting both the matt-black and polished ceramic on various pieces plus some other ones.

Private imports are "complied" differently, as are cars older than 12/88 which are eligable for import under the "15 year" rulings. It may have changed since I brought my S13 in under the private import scheme, Il ask the compliancer next door. When mine was done Green (Pink now) compliance plates are only issued to low volume grey imports, not private nor "15 year" imports. They are issued a VIN and are registerable with an engineers certificate indicating that the requirements have been met for registration. Mine was around 6 years ago... my mates 32 was 3 years ago. The engineers certificates are not required to be kept in the car etc as per ones for modifications, they are held at the RTA.

If there is a plate with the "aus" vin on the strut tower or engraved on the strut tower then this car has been brought in under the personal import scheme. No compliance plate required. My mates R32 is the same...... he has a little plate pop riveted to the drivers side strut. Unless Vic has different rules??? I thought it was Australia wide though... Has the car been previously registered in oz? If not, did they supply engineers papers/mod plate for first rego? The car only needs to have a few things taken care of and signed off on by an engineer if brought in under the 12mth personal scheme. Seatbelts, intrusion bars, etc

1994 R33 Gtst S1 Bought mine June last year with 95,000 odd on it... now has 137,000 - all F3 kms so they don't count! No issues, other than spending all my money on mods!

lol... no worries... my car is now cleared of defects and in pieces.. Be back on the rd next Friday and then its on sunshine... btw found some forgies in there too

+1 I just put in for extra time off

I just got one - 87 / 1.2 mm Tomei gasket Going on a 94 R33 S1

Thats what I did although its better for stone chips than anything else...... I am having the car completely resprayed and at the same time they are making me a mould of my front bar and making an extra two (current one has been repaired too many times previously - previous owner + 1 is mine). This way both the other bars will be ready and waiting - they are also giving me the mould to keep so I don't see every other 33 in the area with the same bar The cost of the two new bars + the mould is $650. Pretty cheap considering the cost of replacing/repairing and I can use it on any future skylines or sell the mould to a friend with the same bar

Interested in braided clutch lines.... brakes too

^^^^ I have the same brakes.... although I am running slotted rotors front & rear

Although..... I have seen you glance shyly

Face it Sam, your just nuts! My arm muscles (lats or whateva) or lack there of were killing the next day from holding onto the Holy Sh!t handle to stop from sliding out of the seat! Sam's shopping list: Race Seats Harness's Semis

lol... you spotted my car but I spotted you around the corner near Ourimbah station heading towards Gosford.. I was in the wrx... no wave as per usual Seriously... how can all you guys miss the wrx! *chucks tanti*

Possibly something to do with when the car is underload... the Dyno has tractive effort etc but isn't a true measure of driving conditions under load. Hence why most tuners (well the ones I know anyways) will tune on the dyno then do a road tune for touchups. As to why no idea! .... Is it actually saying low boost but still reaching hi boost - or it saying hi boost on the screen all the time? I would be enquiring with the people you took it too as it sounds that as soon as the car is underload its malfunctioning for whateva reason..... or possibly that the settings were not saved properly when it was on the dyno?

I have the same setup and I am still using my CRD core from the kit I bought originally... car was at 260-270 rwkw when I pulled it off the rd (reliably) ... will have 300+ rwkw when I get it back next week (turbo upgrade, mani & camshafts) ... if the cooler is still doing the job then meh.. it can stay! All I did was run 4' piping from the TB into the guard then reduce it to 3" for the outlet... exactly the same on the other side...4" turbo into guard then 3" into cooler. You only need to buy the core (assuming your current core runs the same path as the standard piping) so just depends on how much you want to spend... $100-$200 for a JJR or CRD etc .. or $300-$500 for a name brand???? Of course the more expensive brands prolly flow better etc (never investigated) but I ended up doing a cheaper FMIC and putting dollars into a decent oil cooler setup...

I have the Profec E-01... awesome.. flat boost, no spiking... recommended Also have the E-boost 2 in our other car - doesn't spike and easy to setup yourself.....

Hmmmph..... soft j/ks... maybe December????