Darius

I'm just completing a rebuild of a series 1 RB25DET. I built the bottom end and while I was in the process of machining the block, I installed a Tomei restrictor orifice on the rear oil feed and blocked the front oil feed on the block. The car ran great, the lifters primed, and I drove it for 700 miles. Then, I pulled the head to do a port/polish job and get new oversized valves. When I put it back together, everything works fine except some of my lifters won't bleed (leaving about .25mm of valve lash). They are quiet for the first 30 seconds, but noisy after the engine heats up. So, I pulled the trouble lifters and disassembled/cleaned/reassembled them and they still have about the same amount of lash, which means they aren't expanding to the cam. I am now concerned that I am not getting enough oil pressure through the single orifice and VTC feed to prime the lifters. Most of the trouble lifters are towards the rear of the block. Anyone have suggestions? I think I"ve tapped all my resources on the US forums and need the aussie experts to help

What timing are you running? Too retarded will cause unburnt fuel to burn in the manifold instead of the chamber causing it to glow red.

Will you ship to the US? I'm in Ames, Iowa (50010) How much is the shipping and what is the conversion to US dollars? And do you have pictures of it?

First, if it is coming from the "middle" of your motor but cannot trace it back to a point source like a coolant hose, then it is likely your head gasket. Second, change your oil to make sure it does not look like chocolate milk. If it looks like chocolate milk, you have problems. It is either a cracked head or blown head gasket.

Was the hole in your head visible? I am having the same weeping problem even after pulling the head and recoating my Cometic head gasket with coppercoat. So now I'm onto pulling the motor to have the block resurfaced (after having the head resurfaced). How many times can you install and uninstall a head gasket before its sealing ability is compromised? Same question for my ARP head bolts?

1) I wouldn't go over 1mm overbore because if you blow your motor and need to overbore the cylinders, there's 1mm of material to spare. An extra mm of diameter is not going to give you noticibly increased power anyways. I would err on the side of safety. 2) As far as swapping RB26 internals into an RB25DET is concerned, what brand of bearings are recommended? Also, shouldn't the machine shop measure the crank and rods and determine what bearing thickness is needed from that? 3) I am installing Tomei valve springs with new HKS cams (256 x 8.8mm) and RB26 rods and pistons. What is a reasonable increase in redline with this setup?

I'm looking to upgrade the bottom end of my RB25DET with RB26 internals. I'm looking for an R33-34 to avoid the crank collar/water pump issue with the R32. If you can get me an R32 crank that has been collared, I will be interested in that too. I'm in the States so could you please estimate shipping to 50010? Thanks! My e-mail address is [email protected]