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donut_kng

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Posts posted by donut_kng

  1. Pretty much my dilemma as I was saying on the last page, going off the dyno sheet on the 3.4L there isn't much in it and the top end gains are great.

    From going by there website the 6262 was the first of that sort of series then they did the 6266 which is a touch bigger, then the 6766 which is bigger then a To4z then recently the 6466 which sits midway between 6266 and 6766.

    And yeah I highly doubt you would notice the 600-700rpm difference (as quoted by a precision rep i spoke to) between a 6262 and a 6466. You literally wouldn't pick it by driving it I think you would only notice on a dyno graph as above considering how long it takes to jump 500rpm at the 4000rpmk mark on even a stock RB

  2. Thanks. Have seen it but not sure on that one. I think the 6262 is the one.

    Yeah just give it a ago they are pretty interchangable apparently.

    I went for the 6466 as I figure if worst case it was 600-700 difference in response from the 62-64 - something i doubt im really going to notice when its on an engine which will snap the rpm needle within a matter of seconds anyway - which is worth it considering the top end gains!

  3. The genuine hard plastics/rubber ones cost an arm and a leg off Nissan, so best to get full rubber aftermarket ones from a panel beater or maybe window installer, or even try waxing/car polish the ones you have which can usually make then look a lot better.

    Search for auto glym 07b if you want to get real tricky.

  4. Mate I can't remember honestly its been that long and I have had a heap of cars done there before, Im pretty sure he's not as low priced as Martin - but they also do an awesome job.

    I think with most tinting guys the price varies depending if you go in summer or winter.

  5. If you looking for a 3076R equivalent then go the 0.63/ 5558 which is what I did from research and Unigroup's advice, if you looking for bigger, then consider the 6XXX series...

    I spent a heap of time comparing numbers on this also.

    For memory when I looked at this (I dont have the numbers on me) the 6262/6266 are pretty much similar to a GT3540 and the Precision 6466 is somewhere between a GT3540 and a TO4Z# .

    Obviously how these would drive will also vary based on the rear housing size/ split pulse or not etc.

  6. Anyone done any back to back (or similar) on the 6262 and 6266? Will be deciding between these in 0.84 TS for a 2.2 VE SR. Leaning towards the 6262 atm.

    i have seen dyno sheets floating around which are probably in this post somewhere anyway - which show the difference in the response between, 6266, 6466,6766 being about 500rpm on a 3.4L ...

    I have even emailed precision directly who have confirmed that it would be about 300-500rpm on a 3L

  7. Intercooler + a hole cut in the inner guard is perfectly legal WITHOUT an engineers certificate.

    You lot need to learn your standards of what is owner certifiable and be able to politely inform the police of such items and you will avoid defects.

    the risk with informing politely is if you find someone that happens to know the slightest bit more they will go to town on you for trying to be smarter!

  8. There isnt anything anyone can do. Thanks for the tip off Hooks. Ill be heading to Melb on the2nd... Ill be making sure Mums company Santa Fe looks stock lol. Its pretty shit targeting Summer Nats. They complain they want people to go to organised events and not drag and do burnouts on the streets but when an event is organised they try to stop it. Maybe the modded car scene needs to do what taxi drivers and truckies do and park up the CBD for a few hours. Sooner or later they will realise the defecting and impounding isnt working and start to target the problem drivers and not the car.

    Sure is working unfortunately! How many half decent done up cars so you see out on the road on the weekends these days? Stuff all!

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