master_illusion

Any cracks or problems with these coilpacks?

I have two of these subs. I have not had a chance to do the full installation into the car but did a quick 15 min install to run them at an spl comp. With boxes just sitting and amp leaning up next to boxes I pulled 142dB. That was running off Alpine MRV-1507 (1500W Bridged). These are awesome subs, pretty much indestructible. Worth it for $200 seeing how when they were brand new they retailed for over $800 each. Cheers

Hi People, I am having a problem with the AFM on my S1 R33. The problem is that the car will stall out for a 1/2 second (sometimes 1-2 seconds) randomly when driving. It is at the lights, while doing 80 kms, down-shifting etc. I have narrowed the problem down to the wires that run into the plug that connects to the AFM. I know this because when i wiggle the wires at the connector I am able to get the car to stall and generally play up. The problem continues because it also causes the car to run really poorly because it is giving the ECU the wrong voltages, which causes lots of lag and generally makes it a tart. What I want to know is, does any other model of Nissan, Eg Maxima, Pulsar, etc have the same plug as the Skyline and will it cause any undesired effects if i was to cut the wires just before the plug and solder them to a new plug. If no other models fit, does anyone know where abouts to get a replacement connector and approx 20cm of wiring so that I can replace it. Kind Regards Master Illusion

Hmmm.... Are there any other things that I should be looking at for the problem then. I pulled the timing signal from the module on top of the plastic cover. Above cylinder 6. Pink wire if I am not mistaken, 2 wire connector, came off the turbo side plug. This correct or did I pull it from the wrong wire?. Could a dying fuel pump or fuel regulator also result in these kinds of symptoms, as these have not been changed from std items. I have done the sparkies NGK's (Copper) gapped to 0.8, coil packs are OK, timing belt is probably getting of age but would expect the car not even to start if that had any problems like jumping a tooth. Just trying to rule out everything that it could be so I can narrow it down to a specific problem. Thanks Heaps PPL.

cliff25gsts - If i put my foot down it does exactly that, it gets onto full boost, 8 PSI at the moment, but just lags all the way to the red line. WogsRus - I know that the timing is supposed to change but i didnt think that it was supposed to change to the point that it was off the scale. Eg | <--First Mark Last Mark ---> |..................... : <----- Timing jumps up to here if i hold it at approx 2000 RPM.

Hi People, Ok I have over used the search funtion and have found part of my issue and resolved it. But I still have a lingering problem. I have put a timing light onto my car and adjusted the timing to be 15 degrees BTDC at idle, but as soon as I rev the motor it jumps off the scale to the right, and probably goes another 2 marks past the last mark. Can I safely say that the CAS is wrecked or could it be something else that I am overlooking. The problem that I am having with the car is that it gets onto boost ok and holds it promptly but it seems as though it does not know what to do with it and its much better on the pickup if i hold the throttle half way down than go all the way through the rev range, rather than WOT. Any ideas would be extremely helpful. Regards Master Illusion

Hi People, I need a favour. I am getting an Error 34 on my R33 and have checked all the wiring as per the service manual. It says that there is supposed to be a 4 pin connector with only two wires running from it to each of the knock sensors. I have had a quick look at mine and all i can see is a brown wire running from the loom which comes down parallel with the plenum to a red crimp connector and then to the sensor. Does anyone have a photo of the connector in question and where abouts it is in the engine bay. This has been causing me grief for many days, and I am eager to get the fault sorted out as I am running on a retarded map until it is fixed. Thanks in advance Aidan

Have just checked the ecu for error faults and have just noticed that its flashing 34, which is detonation sensor circut, but I have absolutely no idea where this is located.... ha ha ha. I have checked timing and have changed fuel filter. Lol Any idea's with the detonation sensor???

Yep, already tried that, I wound the gain all the way up and all the way down to see the difference, and put it on full gain and it comes on to boost stronger now (not much mind you) (once its in the +), but still takes the 3 - 3.k to get there.

Ok here is the info. When i brought the car it had a blown motor. The motor had been over boosted, and had blown a piston resulting in a large deposit of oil being splashed around. Anyhoo a new motor was sourced and installed before I collected the car, and it has been the same since then. I have only just recently had the time to start messing around with it though. Is it possible for oil to build up in the cooler and cause laggy boost, I have not pulled off the piping as yet but I figured that I would have popped off a cooler hose by now if that was the issue. I am getting a new cat and middle muffler tomorrow after reading a few posts that say that the cat may have broken down. Mainly to do with the blown motor, coz none of that was changed with the new motor. Am I on the right track with this or is there something specific I should be looking at with this. The new motor came from the importers and had done 70k when it was sold to me. Cheers

Hi PPL, I have a really strange issue with my S1 R33. With normal or even spirited driving my turbo takes at least 3000 - 3500 rpm to even create positive boost. Once it gets onto boost it is pretty good and gets up to 9 without much issue but I know there is a problem, and can't think why. I have looked through the other topics but don't get any real specific problem places I should be looking for. I am thinking after reading all the posts that it may be that my actuator is partially stuck, and may be leaking boost even from take off. I do not have an FMIC yet, but I know it should bet almost on full boost by this time. Btw just as a side note, I have a stocko turbo, Blitz DSBC, 3in system, HKS pod and Blitz BOV. Any idea's would be greatly appreciated. Regards Master Illusion

There is no boost controller attached. It did have one but they have removed that while the motor is running in. Also the bov, has had a plate put over it so it passed the requirements. I have just brought this car. Could it be to do with the fuel filter, I have still not checked that, but could that also affect the overall total boost, as it is in relation to the acceleration problems??

Hi, I have had a bit of a search but to no avail. I have just had a new motor put into my 1994 R33, and the problem is that after about 1/2 throttle, there doesn't seem to be anymore poke from the motor. It just keeps accelerating as if it was still 1/2 way down. It still sounds like its boosting but it just accelerates really slowly. The motor is still on very low boost, but doesn't get over about 3 psi. As long as you keep the throttle below 1/2 it seems to pick up okay. But still doesn't boost over 3psi. Any idea's?? Regards Master_illusion