Daboss

No knocking or anything, just a miss in the upper rpm on wot. Also I noticed that on cruise anything from 3000rpm and above, at partial throttle now as I am cruising, the wideband reads rich meaning my afr's are lower than 10 as it just says rich on the screen of the wideband. Ok here is the deal installed an atmospheric with an antistall kit so the car doesn't stall, the car doesn't stall but now it runs rich at part throttle. Ideal is good varying in between 14.7 and 15 sometimes I see a 17 or 18 but I say thats just the ecu doing its thing to get it to stoich. Now at cruise 2000 rpm and under afr's are great 14.7 to 15. Now I have a stock untuned ecu and a z32 afm that is set up to work through an afc neo that is also untuned. Do you think chipping the ecu will help with the upper rpm rich problem? I cant tune down low because of the stock ecu and it being in closed loop mode.

It happened at about 5000 rpm in third gear and boost was about 10 give or take a psi and the wideband showed like 17:1 afrs and it happened when we did it again. No dyno was just doin a road run to set in the boost, when it happened. The plugs are gapped down lower than 0.9 that I am sure of. So I guess it time for new colis then and I had these set all silicon up as well.

Hey there forum me again just popping in to ask a quick question about missfire. Car is running 10 psi and in the upper rpm it misses and then the car leans out afr's go up to 17. With throttle wide open and in the 4000 rpm range afr reads 12:1 but as soon as it hits 5000 there is a miss and an instant lean out. Now the plugs on the car are ngk coppers number 5 heat range and gap dropped to .7. Do you think that this is the culprit as I should be running a colder range plug? What I want to know is if the car leans out because of the miss or does the car miss beacause of the lean out and also the spark plugs seem to be at fault right? Fuel pump fairly new walbro 040 hardwired for full voltage, spark plugs might be a little fouled as i ran the car rich a few times and I mean rich as in black smoke out the exhaust and they are the ngk 5 coppers. So what do you think?

The z32 is used and the wiring job isn't soldered but spliced in by butt connectors so I would say it is a solid job and the safc is set to z32 two in four out. So a z32 thats installed onto a stock ecu by an untuned afc neo wont cause the car to run lean? What I mean by that is if the neo is not uned but just set up to in the afm section for a z32.

Hey forum just after some intelligent theories as I have my own and just wanted to compare and see if I am on the right track. Ok its a 95 gtst with a z32 afm and an untuned safc just setup so the car can start with the z32. Here is the problem car makes positive boost pressure but goes nowhere. Checked all piping and hoses thoroughly and there are no tears or leaks. Now I didn't check to see if it would make power by gradually pressing on the throttle but when mashing the throttle boost builds but there is no power.I am thinking that the ecu, which is stock is going into some fail safe mode as it is seeing too much air/voltage coming from the z32afm which it is not tuned for. Also boost control is set for 10 psi but when in second flooring it by 3000 rpm only get to about 7psi and as I stated earlier car has no power.

Yea that had to be the prob cause the neo was set for rb25 afm, I mean no black smoke was coming out the exhaust so I cant say it was rich. What I can say tho is the car barley started and didn't want to stay on it was coughing and sputtering and just was horrible. Thanks to the forum I feel the prob has been solved I will put the ecu back in set the neo and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks once again!!!!!

Cause I did not disconnect the afc when rewiring and I was thinking I could use it to fine tune the ecu a bit after the install. Yea I guess you can call it a universal chip, but it only works with the rb25, as they didnt put my car on the dyno just used base rb25 maps, advanced ignition, remove speed cut and designed to use z32 afm. Hence why I figured i could use an afc neo to fine tune it.

Yea I was using the neo with the z32, but the neo is untuned only change on it was to allow me to run a z32 afm with the the stock rb25 ecu. I got the ecu for about 80 dollars. Hmm do you think that could be the prob that I forgot to change the output of the signal back to a z32?

LOL abortion I like that. But i rewired and put the standard rb25 ecu in an the car started an ran fine. Swhat would your expert analysis be, that the tune on the chipped ecu is bad?

With standard z32 ecu car cranks but does not turn over. Nismoid said that they could have thought rb25 afm right? But, seeing as I have an afc neo attached to the ecu with the settings to run a z32 afm wouldn't that overide the rb25 afm signal and send the z32 afm signal to the ecu? When Nismoid said to use a stock ecu he did mean a z32 one right or did he mean a rb25 one?

Yea I kno they have different firing orders hence the rewiring and I just rewired it and plugged in the stock ecu and it starts and runs fine.

Well as far as I know it was supposed to be chipped for an rb25 and as I stated my mods are in my signature, so you guys should have seen I have a z32 afm already. I didnt get a proper ecu cause the only ecu I want would be a pfc and they are very hard to find and expensive so this was a quick fix until I could get one and I wanted to keep the knock retarding feature of the stock ecu. The car the ecu came off was a stock z32.

Hey forum just wanted some expert opnions on this problem I am having. Have a skyline r33 gts-t mods are in sig. I recently upgraded my ecu to a 300zx ecu chipped and rewired to suit the rb25, now the problem is the car starts but idle it sounds sick its coughing and sputtering and barley kicks over and it can't rev cause when I rev it it doesn't really want to and feels like its bout to cut out. I also noticed the fuel pump doesn't prime as long with the chipped 300zx ecu installed. I just want to kno if it is safe to say the tune on the chip is crap?

Lol what good luck and thanks for the quick response. I have another question for you instead of using studs on the manifold to head connection can i just use a bolt with the same dimensions just a little shorter?

Hey forum whats up just need a little help from whomever has the knowledge, I was just wanting to know the stud dimensions for the exhaust manifold as I am missing two and just want to replace the two I am missing and really don/t want to be bothered to buy a set or take any out to match them up. So anyone with these specs the help would be greatky appreciated. Thank You.

No I still Have stock O2 sensor in place , and all they said was to place it downstream of the turbo no less than 24 inches away from the turbo or engine block but before the cat converter, and before you say tht they said before the cat converter and thats where I have it place they only said that so tht "IF" you have a cat converter you don't place it in that cause it will affect the reading. Also as I stated earlier I have no cat just a decat and its placed right at the front of the decat pipe. Thanks for the kudos on the kit and yea thats U.S.

Its a plx m250/300 it does not need calibration. The sensor is not more than a year old. I am wondering how when I am basically stock, stock turbo only boosted up to 9 or 10 psi, stock injectors, stock ecu, z32 afm, an un-tuned afc neo with hotwire sensor type selected 2 in and 4 out, bosch 040 fuel pump direct wire to the battery, fuel pressure 35 at idle with vacuum with it removed around 42/43 psi. I figured i should have a rich a/f ratio problem not a lean one everything seems to be in fine working order. I am confused, any other suggestions? http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=263 That is a link to the pic and description of the exact gauge kit I have the m300.

Well It still makes great power, haven't had it dynoed but it still feels responsive and it pulls nicely. Only prob I am having is when boosting at wot the car kinda surges and it doesn't get the 9psi quickly enough for me and if I run third or fourth gear out it overboost get like 13 psi towards the end of the rpm say like about by 6000 rpm or so, but I figure thats because the ebc is not configured correctly. The noise doesn't go away and upon inspecting my car I noticed that two of the bolts off the exhaust manifold are missing so far, at least from what I can see the first and last bolt.

Hey all me again just asking a question after a long night of reading and not finding the answer to my query. In a previous post I am having trouble with ticking/tapping noise from my engine bay, narrowed it down to lifters or exhaust manifold. I just took a look at my wideband and at idle it reads 15-16 most of the time with a jump to 14 here and there and when on wot I get readings of 13-14(way to lean for me)but, my car is basically stock with the exception that I am running an aftermarket fuel pump bosch 044 with the direct wire mod and about 9 psi of boost and from what I learned without tunning these mods should have my car running rich if anything. The rest of the mods are in the sig. My question is can a leaking exhaust manifold show a lean reading on a wideband? My sensor is placed in the decat pipe and a noticed a bolt or two missing off my exhaust manifold. So what do you guys think?

No I didn't as yet wanted to get a good idea of what it was or find out what it is so, when I go there I can be able to point out and tell him whats the matter and not have him try bs his way out of it. I will this weekend though, since we narrowed it down to exhaust leak or lifters. It doesn't sound like piston slap or rod knock? As I had the shop put in forged pistons during the rebuild.

I know about three types the 8bit the 16bit with the section for the 20 pin header and then the 16 bit that doesn't have the section for the pin header. Is that what you were talking about? I know you can use the first two but the last there is noway to chip it.

Yea I want to but I just got it from him after a complete rebuild. I want to know if he just didn't put everything back together right. Like I said the shop and mechanic are known to be a good machine shop and he is known for being quite diligent with service, but that is not with the rb's over here we have no experts so I wanted the opinions of a few cause I never heard tht noise before even before the rebuild figured he messed something up.

Sorry for the double post but, I have been hearing a rattle from my engine and was wondering if you guys can help diagnose the prob? From reading others post in the forum I have come to the conclusion that is either lifters or an exhaust leak, maybe from the videos included you guys can help me diagnose better. Listen carefully and you can hear the rattle, I1) 2) All suggestions are welcome and thanks for the help. I want to diagnose the rattle and i am hearing my engine isn't even suppose to be that noisy wow!!! I am open to any and all suggestions just want some help as to where to start. Thanks.

HMMMMMMM yea after watching that vid my engine does seem a whole lot louder than the engine in that vid. I am open to all suggestions so please let me hear them. Did the coilpack test all the coilpacks change the note of the engine so that means they are good or at least working and I am running all six cylinders. So please people help me out.

Ok I have been hearing a rattle from my engine and was wondering if you guys can help diagnose the prob? From reading others post in the forum I have come to the conclusion that is either lifters or an exhaust leak, maybe from the videos included you guys can help me diagnose better. Listen carefully and you can hear the rattle, 1) 2) All suggestions are welcome and thanks for the help.