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Gameboy

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Posts posted by Gameboy

    Weakest Link In Engine?

    in RB30 conversions

    Posted

    Hey guys, finally got everything I need to start putting this thing together. One problem though, I started taking apart the rb30 and when I took the head of, there was signs of a blown HG and rust in the bores. That scraps my original plan to use stock internals and it looks like someone cracked a bunch of raw eggs in the rad and this shit is all through out the block.

    My plan now is to get the block acid dipped, decked and honed and then put it back together again. I cant afford forgies so I was wondering what would be the best upgrade to do internally? like should I go with upgraded pistons? or stronger rods instead?

    300Zx Tt Potential

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted

    Some things to look out for.

    Cracked control pods/functionality

    A/C vents not blowing where they are supposed to (I was never able to determine why mine were stuffed)

    Lifted dash

    Leaky or bypassed heater core

    Bonnet slightly raised due to someone jacking car up by rad support (happens more on the Z's for some reason

    Spoiler all spongy or cracked

    Torn carpet on drivers

    HICAS playing up

    Cracked window cal

    Drivers side chair torn

    Electric seats playing up

    Leaky targa tops (make sure it has the shades)

    Just some of the things from the top of my head and reason why I had to get rid of mine, was going to cost me to much to repair.

    These cars are pretty cheap to buy these days so you should be able to find a mint example for under 8k even. Jump on the http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/ to get a better idea on what they are worth.

    300Zx Tt Potential

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted

    I recently sold mine. Stock as a rock apart from a cat back. My sister has an r33 gtst also stock with just a cat back. Both 5 speed. My Z was a hell of a lot faster. My brothers Z was even faster than mine and his was auto but had full exhaust and big front mount. Bloody awesome cars. I loved the seating position it was like a little jet.

    I had to sell it as the interior and exterior was just shit and would of cost me a fortune to fix it all. Parts are expensive for them but to buy one whole is cheaper than most Silvia's. I'd love to own another one some day.

    Should A New Tensioner Be Free Rolling?

    in RB30 conversions

    Posted

    Finally received my new tensioner and idler pullies but the tensioner doesn't seem to spin freely. I can spin the idler and it spins for a couple seconds but the tensioner feels like there is a lot of resistance when trying to spin it.

    A little rant.

    Im starting to wish I just bought a complete rb25det motor instead of a bare head as every time I think ive bought everything for the 25/30 I realize I need to buy something else...its been an expensive cheap build lol.

    Adj Camshaft Pulley & New Cam Belt

    in Wagoneers

    Posted

    Yep should be ok - you can double check before you put the cam covers on that everything is opening and closing at the right time. A tip - assuming you are keeping VCT get an adjustable gear for the exhaust cam in order to get full value from your RB30.

    Thanks, yeah keeping VCT and my bro is giving me his adjustabe cam gear from his old engine :D

    Adj Camshaft Pulley & New Cam Belt

    in Wagoneers

    Posted

    If you have an RB25 head it should be pretty much the same. The main thing is not to turn anything with the belt off! And as per the previous post probably better to insert a lead between the no1 coil and plug and time off that.

    I haven't put the head on it yet. If I turn the engine over and get the piston to tdc, and then turn the cams over and align the the dots then install the head, would that be ok?

    would the timing be good enough to then be able to start and fine tune it with a light?

    Sorry for the heaps of questions, first time im putting an engine together.

    Adj Camshaft Pulley & New Cam Belt

    in Wagoneers

    Posted

    First job is to read the workshop manual, for those that don't have one I have attached the relevant drawings from the RB20/25/26 manual. They are all pretty much the same, I have just chosen the best diagram from each manual.

    This is a picture of the crankshaft pulley, you need to make sure it is at TDC (Top Dead Centre on #1 or Zero Degrees), when you start, and when you finish.

    RB26_Crank_Pulley_Orientation_at_TDC.jpg

    This is a picture of the camshaft orientation, you need to make sure they are both at TDC, when you start, when you finish and at all times in between.

    RB25_Camshaft_Orientation_at_TDC.jpg

    If you don't want (need) to remove the cam covers, you can check the camshaft orientation by the location

    of the knock pins, as per the following diagram;

    RB26_Camshaft_Kock_Pins_at_TDC.jpg

    The best way to check this is the camshaft pulleys, they have a dot on each pulley that should (has to) line up with the dots on the backing plate. Like this;

    RB25_Cam_Pulley_Diagram.jpg

    Take a look at the picture of the HKS exhaust camshaft pulley (in the previous post) and you can see the dot on the tooth just above the "EX" mark.

    There is also an alignment dot on the cambelt pulley on the crankshaft, you need to make sure it is at TDC (Top Dead Centre on #1 or Zero Degrees), when you start, when you finish and at all times in between;

    RB26_Cam_Pulley_Diagram.jpg

    Nissan knows how important it is top make sure you have the crankshaft and camshaft timing aligned. That's why there are all of these dots and markers to make sure you align them when you put it back together. Use them, they will save you a lot of heartache if you get it wrong.

    Most of these parts I will have to remove to change the timing belt and replace the camshaft pulley;

    RB26_Cam_Belt_Replacement.jpg

    Note the torque wrench settings for each nut and bolt, it is important not to overtighten them or leave them loose.

    The next post will contain some digital pictures of the RB25DET in the Stagea and the parts that need to be removed to get at the front of the engine. So that I can remove the crank pulley and the cambelt covers. Taking pictures as I go will take longer than I could do it without stopping, but I will have a nice record of what to do. As I get a lot of questions from guys who have done or would like to do their own cambelt service or fit an adjustable camshaft pulley/s.

    More to come over the weekend. :cheers:

    I apologize for bumping an old thread, but can this guide be used on an rb30det?

    Head Gaskets Vs Price

    in RB30 conversions

    Posted

    I bought a cometic mls head gasket from Fabre Australia in Lakemba. I paid $300 for it but they were the only supplier in Australia to have a 86mm cylinder bore head gasket with 51thou thickness.

    I just bought the same one from Spool Imports for $250 including shipping :)

    • Like 1

    Head Gaskets Vs Price

    in RB30 conversions

    Posted · Edited by Gameboy

    I am hoping for around 450 - 500rwhp. I sent an email to spool imports regarding the shipping price for a cometic gasket. Prices on Ebay seem a little expensive and plus I dont know if they are genuine or not.

    Head Gaskets Vs Price

    in RB30 conversions

    Posted

    Hmm... I have almost got all the parts I need for my build. One thing that ive been searching for ages for is a head gasket. What is everyone's opinion on high performance gaskets vs standard OEM ones? Anyone running big power with standard ones?

    I want to save some $$$ but if its crucial to buy a Cometic or something ill just do that instead.

    • Like 1

    Would A Twin Turbo Parallel Setup Work On An Rb?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by Gameboy

    Im planning on rebuilding an rb engine for my Silvia (actually, first time touching the internals of an engine) and am thinking of going twin turbo parallel. Reason I am concidering, I use to own a 300zx and I just loved how it delivered the power. It felt like driving a non turbo with heaps of power. Now, has anyone done this to an RB engine?

    Can I use a Y pipe to combine both turbo's to go into a normal intercooler? or would I need a 2 in 1 out intercooler?

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