kx2fity
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Posts posted by kx2fity
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Whats everyone paying for their car insurance?
In this format:
Car: 1994 GTS-T R33
Insurance company: Vigel
Cost: $1000
age: 21
driving history: Clean
gender: Male
mods: FMIC, widebody f-glass fenders, kit, mags, tails, electronic smoke gauges
post code: 6050
garage y/n: y
alarm: yes
insured amount: $15000 - $20000 (hasnt been confirmed yet)
market or agreed value: agrred
insured in parents name? No
alarm category: ?
excess: ?
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should look like my skyline after you chuck kit on! what are you going for with rear bar?
Get someone decent 2 put D-wing on -ie can easily be bodged up and yeh you will prob need to paint boot lid!
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Got 2 quotes yesterday!
"For Pearl Black respray ; front bar and bonnet"
Needs a fair bit of prep work!
1st quote: $290
2nd quote $350 (includes bracing front bar to restrict movement)
However I am just out of perth atm! I thought perth would be cheaper as in more competition but yeh not the case!
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Ive checked out a few places and the quotes to get a fibreglass 400r sprayed in white are:
$320
About $300 (verbal)
$400
over $450
Anyone recommend someone that can do a good job but maybe a little cheaper? Ive got quotes from FIbrevision and Cowley smash (cheapest 2).
Thanks
Thats weird I was quoted only $150 to spray my front bar (JUN) by Fibrevision "provided I sand back of course"
Had a few other quotes and none were over $300!
Is it Brand new front bar? If so should be fairlly cheap!
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Hey guys,
I remember seeing a thread on these forums based around my problem but i cant seem to find it anymore, so i thought id ask
.Anyways only one of my front headlights work and ive heard its a problem alot of skylines have, but the light does come on if i drive it abit harder, i dont know what that has to do with anything but yeh... Normally the only light on is the right light and the left one is off. I was thinking of taking this to a normal auto sparky but just before I do, I just want to know if this may possibly be an easy fix.
Thanks for any help guys!
I had same problem a few months back, turned out that a small amount of moisture had got into the globe housing section and some corrosion had formed causing low/no charge! Simple fix cleaned out housing chucked globe back in and all good! No probs since!
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Well, Barbagello is Wanneroo Raceway. You get there by going up Wanneroo Rd and turning onto Pinjar Rd. Kingsways Maccas is at the shops on the corner of Wanneroo Rd and Hepburn Ave.
I'm in Ashfield (about 10mins east down Guildford Rd from you) so if you wanna meet up somewhere near us give me a shout. Anyone else interested?
Corner of waneroo and Hepburn Ave sounds good (maccas)!
What time you thinking? Heard it doesn't actually start until late arvo?
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I'm barely NoR but if you wanna meet at like maccas or something, maybe kingsway (no tmuch parking outside maccas there though) then cruise it up to Pinjar Rd. Any thoughts? there's a lot of meeting places between me and Barbagello
Yeh sorry about post above I wrote last night at about three after getting home from club so was bit scattered!
I'm actually new to Perth and have no idea where barbagallo is so sorry for location error!
Im in Mt Lawley so anywhere between? Kingsway Maccas- not sure where that is but will suss it out!
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Was thinking few of us NOR could cruise to drift battle 5, got two cars lined up but would be cool to get some more????
Cheers,
Dan
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Coventrys sell Phillips Visionplus headlights.. theyre supposed to throw out more light and a longer beam. I have Phillips Crystal Vision which don't emit any more light, but the light is white and very clear which I find better than yellow anyway. They're around $90 but if you come see me at the Osborne Park branch I'll do ya a deal just ask for shae
As you can see theyre very white and look super cool
Sounds good mate! So your at coventrys osborne park??
Yeh thats about as close as you get to HID hey, they do look super white though!
$90 is that just for low beams??
Would it be worth investing the $200 for a HID conversion kit if globes are gona cost me nearlly that???
Cheers
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Been searching most of the afternoon for some kind of thread that highlights the differences between different bulbs and as yet to find one! so sorry if this has been covered!
I have a series 1 R33 and one of my low beams has gone, but as we all know the light that the standard globes emit is pritty dismal! So my question is what globes from personal experience will produce the best light low/high beam etc?
What are my options? I have been searching google a bit aswell and prices vary incredibly for globes $2-$200, just a little confused and need someone to clarrify what exactly are my options and what will give me the best bang for my buck?
I'm not to keen on getting a HID kit at this point in time even though they are relatively cheap, there are other things higher up on the agenda!
Thanks,
Dan
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Been searching most of the afternoon for some kind of thread that highlights the differences between different bulbs and as yet to find one!
I have a series 1 R33 and one of my low beams has gone, but as we all know the light that the standard globes emit is pritty dismal! So my question is what globes from personal experience will produce the best light low/high beam etc?
What are my options? I have been searching google a bit aswell and prices vary incredibly for globes $2-$200, just a little confused and need someone to clarrify what exactly are my options and what will give me the best bang for my buck?
I'm not to keen on getting a HID kit at this point in time even though they are relatively cheap, there are other things higher up on the agenda!
Thanks,
Dan
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I ended up going back to fibrevision and to my surprise they were actually very helpful and are going to fix it all up free of charge! They are getting rep down because its not the first car that has come back in! Basically the Sikaflex they are using is supposed to be the 'Dogs Bollics' of sikaflex's when in obviously isn't!
I think they are going to do what "Silent" suggested and dig out old sikaflex and then have another crack at it myself!
Reason why I have chosen not to do myself- is the chance of cracking a skirt or scratching the paint; they do professionally so will leave to them!
Fibre Vision unfortunately are booked out until jan but pulled few strings and shes going in this tuesday coming!
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UPDATED PLEASE READ TOP POST!
Help!
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about the alarm, have u tried changing the batteries in your remote? I know of 4 people who have an Autowatch alarm and have had to change the batteries in the first 6mths.
Apparently its the actual siren thats stuffed! Everything else is ok, but i will prob chuck sum new batteries in just to be sure!
Apparently i can replace the faulty unit with any 'alarm siren'???
Thanks,
Dan
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Lucky to get 300km! But not complaining my 4wd had a 100l tank about $130+ to fill up and I would be lucky to get 350-400km out of it (in perth)! Not only does my skyline get me to places a hell of alot quicker, smoother and in more style I also find it much more of a pleasure to drive!
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If you are not after a show finish, can I suggest you have a go at repairing yourself.
To attach the skirts, buy some Sikaflex from your local repco or similar, use small amounts under the skirts where its lifting, then sit a spare wheel against it over night, or 24 hours if possible (weekend job). You can use rags to prevent the paint from being damaged by the wheel. NOTE 1
For the scratches and chips, get some touch up paint - you can go to your local panel beater and ask them to mix some for you - or if its factory paint, places like Autopro can make up 1L containers for around $20 odd (may be 40, its been a while since I bought some). Only use enamel, not acrylic.
Just use a small paint brush (cheap disposable), and apply sparingly. you will be surprised how well it will come up - unless you are up close its normally very hard to pic touched up scratches. Start with the scrached under the skirts until you start to get a feel for the best way to apply.
I think you will find with painters, you may have trouble getting a job done quickly. If you are having trouble, pm me, I will give you some details for a guy who does private jobs on weekends, and should be able to help you out
good luck
NOTE 1:
when working with sikaflex, make sure you have some thinners or turps on standby to remove any that may go where you dont want it.
Once dry, it can be difficult. Make sure you seal up the left over sikaflex very, very thoroughly, as once it dries, its for the bin.
If you need to tool the sikaflex, just use salive on a finger and you can move it around without it sticking to your skin
enjoy
its fun stuff, but it works well.Cheers mate, exactly the response I was after!
Why use enamel over acrylic?
Problem has been that I have been renting in perth and we dnt have garage or undercover area and so it has been almost impossible to do things myself!
I even had to pay someone the other day to change my gear box oil, simply because I had no where I could do it!
Im heading back down south where I have my own garage and all my tools in bout 3 weeks time so thats when the fun will begin! be dropping in another 25det and doing some external mods!
Do you think a spare tyre would apply enough pressure? it seems to take a fair amount of force to push skirt back flush with panel??? or does this 'sikaflex' pull surfaces together or expand or....???
In relation to the scratches and chips, and getting some touch up paint - i wont need to supply them with a paint code? they can match?
My Father lives down south and is a Painter, not a car painter but still.... I might try get in contact with him and see if he has any tips!
Thanks Steve, appreciate it!
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Somehow i got a feeling this thread is gonna get closed, but anyway, go to lombardi brothers at bentley.
Your alarm has warrenty, go find the pple that sold it to you.
P/s: If you ain't payin top notch dollar for express service or know the dudes, don't expect anything to be done that soon. Stop being impatient. This is W.A.
WA = Wait Awhile.
Closed why! I didnt mention where!
I expect when someone tells me they're going to do a job, a job im paying for by a certain time they do it simple!
It took me 3 weeks to get a day off so i could take car in! i organise it in adavnce rock-up there (over hr away) and guess what guy doesnt even show (3hrs waiting for nothing) so then i finally get hold of him and yeh will do this arvo head back out + no go, then satdy same thin again! I just wonder how the hell you run a business like that!
haha yeh i not from perth!
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Ok so my kit has started to lift fairlly bad, especially since i havnt been able to garage the car for the last month! (finlly got myself cover today)!
Ok so I thought about going back to fibrevision (who fitted it 6 months ago) but whts to say same thing wont happen again! So then i went to another place (malaga wnt say name) but they f**ked me around big time! allday friday and then yesterday without car and they didnt do a dam thing! So if anyone knows of a good panel and paint that does kits aswell that might be able to help me out and wont f**k me around??
EDIT:
So I tried Sikaflex over the wknd and unfortunately only one side really worked! The other side looks really dodgey and for most part didnt pull body and skirt together!
So now I have a dilemma:
I went and seen Cowley smash repairs and he said it was going to be incredibly expensive to fix 1. because very delicate, time consuming work, the chance that the skirts will break on removal, chance of chipping, have to repaint skirt and more then likely have to paint quarters so well over a $1000!
Would defintely get Cowleys to do it if I had the money (have seen their work)! but obviously I don't! can anyone help me out I have no idea where to go from here, and i believe its getting worse???
Thanks guys
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well a rb30 rebuild would cost a lil more then the rb25 rebuild by the time u fit it and have new oils lines and random things done
but think of the torque !!!!! also if u just get another rb25 and use rest of your money on perforamnce parts like turbo, ecu, fuel pump, clutch, etc
u can achieve 300rwhp faily ez and safely on a rb25 stock internalz
A little more?? Reading through FI threads and sounds like it not too expensive?
Haha the Torque!!!!!!! Yeh that would be nice, take a GTR or what? haha
Yeh I was thinking bout your second point all i need is ECU (power fc $950) Turbo kit (decent one what $2000-2500) and everything else i have already put in car 'clutch, fuel pump, timing belt! will need injectors tho (lots of 2nd handys around tho)!
Do I settle for 300, thts the question!
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' date='9 Nov 2006, 01:01 AM' post='2653450']
fix the problem with ur engine
you can even rebuild with stock parts from nissan to keep the cost down
you wont need much to make 300rwhp once ur engine is OK!
True but a refresh to get my compression back up to where I want it will cost $4000+, provided no cylinder or piston damage (no way of knowing)!
On the otherhand I might pick up a better 25det for $1500-$2500 drop it in myself and save $2000! Still there is no way of knowing what kind of life engine has had!
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Have a quick look at the RB30 Results thread. I think it was cubes saying that when he used a stock RB20 turbo he made 100kw by 2000 rpm and a max of 180 at 5000 rpm (iirc). A larger turbo should shift the power curve towards the redline and stop the wheelspin
You won't get 300rwkw off the stock turbo however.... or stock engine management... or stock fuel system. Theres alot of money thats goes along with it. And those prices don't include labor, thats if your building it yourself.
It's not a cheap exercise, but if your thinking of building rebuilding an RB25. I dout it'll cost any extra to do the RB30 instead.
Yeh had quick look those results are bullshit! Im intrigued now Im going to have to have a better look into it now, theres quiet a few things im not understanding! But i guess upgrading the stock turbo; engine management; fuel system is inevitable either way if im headn for some decent Hp!
I just started reading the "R33 RB30 Conversion by JNR24" ha 231pages and yeh it is way way over my head I think i have a lot to learn, maybe i will read my manual front to back and try grasp better understanding of components!
By the sounds of it it would be "HUGELY" beneficial if i was to rebuild ;rebuild with the RB30!
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i personally would go for a rebuild... how long before this "newer" engines decides to die
That is a good point! Risky business! But whos to say rebuild will last there is no such thing as warranties on turbos! I mean yeh you obviously get parts warranty but shit I think its risky whatever way you go???????
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If you already have an RB25 why not buy a RB30 bottom end (~$100) and rebuild it with nissan parts (~$900) and put it back together again. Add your head studs and gaskets on top of that and you have a new engine of monstrous proportions (300rwkw on a stock bottom end has been done).
Go read the RB30 thread in the FI section... cmon do it... you know you want to
This is possible? and healthy? haha Im headn over now to check out thread! I am intrigued 300rwkw mwahaha
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Electrical - Starting Problem
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Hey all need some help with my R33! I have been sifting through threads on here for last week and haven't really came across anything definitive yet!
Problems; my speedo started stuffing up about 3 1/2 months ago fairlly common problem but cant seem to solve it- checked gearbox end; all is good checked cluster for solders/join/plug problems and cant figure it out? I realise I need to take it to a instrument repairer but as I am five hrs away from a city centre I havnt been able to as yet!
Next problem the battery 'Dry optima' has been going flat sparatically; it went about 11 weeks ago then about 3 weeks ago and then this week: have checked fuses and wiring for battery drain but cant find anything?? I did have an earthing problem just over 12 weeks ago that I solved some what with a new earthing cable!
Another Problem when I have been starting the car lately I have been getting a delayed response to the starter: ie I turn the key and it takes about 1 second to get a signal to crank- 'not sure what this has to do with problem'!
Another thing all of the times the battery has died and I have gotten bad delay in ignition I have left car outside at night for some period in fairlly cold weather- "Im also not sure if this has anything to do with problems"?
Major Problem- went to turn car over yesterday and wouldnt start: Battery was giving plenty of power to starter etc 'heard crank over' but it seemed as if there was no fuel or injectors werent firing? Fuel pump 'checked' working fine, all hoses were checked! Checked coil packs, checked spark plugs everything appears good!
1. Could this possibley have anything to do with Instrument cluster probs ( I dont think so)?
2. What should be my next step? I have booked an autoelectrician to come out- but as Im in a small town it has already been three days with no show, and im not convinced he is experienced in my type of vehicle!
3. Does It all sound like it could be earthing problems still? Im convinced that loosing charge, delays, and now the car not starting has something to do with faulty wiring somewhere!
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance,
Dan