Cplus
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Posts posted by Cplus
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howdy, have you go a decent condition glove box lid?
wouldn't mind looking at some other random bits and pieces too if you're not "too"far in the hills!
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are they your temperatures or the fault codes at the start?
if they are the fault codes flashing up your system is stuffed!!!
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still got the shocks mate? if so, how many k's have they done?
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rattle gun is the go to get the top nuts off.
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TIG or MIG welded?
and does it penetrate the firewall/boot?
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excellent idea - will definitely watch with interest!
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got centre console lid mate?
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that is corrected capasity. turbo = 1.4x capasity.
as the r32 went from 1989 to 1993, you can nominate to run in eather classic or modern, as the cut off from classic 1990.
you only get cought if somone protests you...unforinatuy classic porsche drivers are the only ones that don't care if they make themselvs look like bastdards by protesting. there were plenty of illigal cars on the podium this year at targa.
1998 * 1.4 = 2797
3379 / 1.4 = 2426
what gives then? RB24?
what suspension are you planning btw?
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great site in general for wiring if you don't have stock wiring still (ie: someone else has butchered it before you)....
and for nissan's specifically
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf
don't foget to give 12V to the aerial also, it's a single plug with a black/red stripe wire - your radio reception will be arse without it!
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you might need to read the rules closer
and there wasn't any rb30'sThe series is R32, so you can run the GT-R kit.
aha - good point. I was taking the rules too literally when I was reading them I guess!
with regards to the Rb30 bit - typos for both of these entrants (here and here) or am I missing something?
also, can someone explain how it can be eligible for both classic and modern at the same time?
its classic Adelaide. full of cheater spec cars from every report i have ever heard. and most of them are over the top obvious.with Tim Possingham doing so well the past few years, seems they are coming down a bit harder on turbo imports. doubt they would notice something like a R34 cooler in place of the R32 one though....
besides, it's only cheating when you get caught breaking the rules
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you still looking to do this?
I potentially have some gear for sale that will be close to your budget, blow away the merc system and fit into an R32 no worries.
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Sold pending payment
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ah no, rb24 isn't legal. the car is being built to aasa regs...which is pretty much the same as cams, but the car can be lighter, and have a big intercooler.
I'm planning mine to be CAMS for classic adelaide. can't even change the intercooler. or run a GTR body kit!
trying to work out what the deal is Targa, in modern they let them run coolers and GTR kits, and then some ran in classic last year with RB30 base engines!
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this won't be a direct fit to a RB25 guys. needs a different adaptor.
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2.4 litres of course
Cheers
Gary
is that legal as per the CAMS tarmac rally reg's? I thought it was 1mm overbore only (and even then, that might be for NA only)
the car falls under M3 regs (section 11 of CAMS manual)
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updates? how are you going?
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Mine came in the post today.
thank you very much.
I hadn't picked up they were leather - not "pleather" - bonus!
will post some pics when fitted.
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they do look really good on the R34.
something about factory wheels a few generations newer on cars - can't beat it.
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nothing wrong with being self insured guys.
you just need to remember that without third party, you are responsible for any damage to other people's property. it's one thing not to have your car covered, but to not cover what damage you might cause to other people's property - with no means to pay it back later - it socially irresponsible IMHO. 3rd party only is VERY cheap, I like to refer to it as "rolls royce" insurance - ie: you won't have to fit the bill for a rolls royce if you hit one
Be ready for a shit fight mate, insurance companies often fight hard against people with no insurance. they will automatically assume that you won't be able to afford a lawyer also and will use theirs to try and put some blame onto you.
You'll also have to respond to all of THEIR demands if you want your money as you don't have someone to keep up the fight for you. It is very hard to battle against an insurance company as a layman.
watch 'em try and value your car at around $13K as a start too - this is redbook low end for trade in value. and be careful with quoting costs for modified parts - got a quote on a factory exhaust before? it will cost WAY more than any HKS/APEXi/TRUST jobbie you can find, used or new. I saw someone try and up receipts for mods once, the insurance company argued that the cost of all the factory parts should be DEDUCTED from the cost of the vehicle prior to adding on the cost of the aftermarket pieces. They may even begin to bring into account the relative roadworthyness of your car if you start quoting things like coilovers etc - if they can do that, all of a sudden blame starts to head your way"in court "His car was un-roadworthy and un-insurable, look he couldn't even get insurance, his car should not have been on the road!
your best bet is to find cars in similar condition and level of modification to yours for sale and argue the value that way.
Be VERY careful in your wordings, make sure all your correspondance is written and get legal advice - QUICK. the couple of grand a lawyer might cost for a couple of quick letters (like, tomorrow or tuesday) may mean the difference in $10-15K payout.
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Okay, to answer the threads original question.
I sell packages where i work, which consist of:
1x KFC-3514DVC Kenwood 12" 400wrms Dual 4 Ohm Sub
1x KAC-8104D Kenwood Mono Amplifier 500wrms @ 2 Ohms
1x 500w 8ga Wiring Kit
1x Aerpro 12" Box
Usually RRP for about 500-600, i sold the last few for about $450.
Nice sounding entry level sub, they unfortunately dont manufacture them anymore, so a great time to buy as most stores are clearing their stock. I had a pair handle over 600wrms each continously in a customers car for over 2 years now, he gives it an absolute hiding, still going.
Stick with brands that have had a mainstream following for over 20 years, IE: Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, Sony, JVC, Clarion. As long as you correctly size your amplifiers accordingly with your woofer, you should be happy, and in the event that you aren't, they'll usually help out.
Steer clear of cheap imported rubbish, gear that is made to satisfy a price point only, bargain bin buying (unless its a good brand), buying from ebay, or buying a brand you have never heard of. If its only been around for 5 years its probably a good idea to research it properly first. If it claims to make 1000WRMS for $400, be very sceptical, check the voltage and THD at which their claim was made, and always pay attention to the CEA rating.
excellent advice :up:
if installed properly there will be zero noise even with $10 cables .I've seen some pretty shit cables. like, completely unshielded ones where it didn't matter where they were run they picked up noise, even from tiny factory power to things like interior lights. a set of $20 Jaycar ones solved the issue.
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where are you located in Adelaide mate?
I can let you listen to my Audison/Focal/Alpine setup which I reckon would shit on any factory system from a great height.
CR's budget gets the thumbs up. could be repeated for around the $3K mark if you spend wisely.
i'm close to the city, happy to go for a drive anytime!
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i couldn't hear much difference between $30 cables and $250 audision ones.
i guess it all comes down to how much money one has to spend
it all comes down to noise really.
you might not hear the difference between $10 and $200 cables, but spending $50 instead of $10 might be the difference between a noisy system.
speaker and power - copper is copper pretty much.
and there wasn't any rb30's
For Sale Thread
in South Australia
Posted
interested - will send PM
Clive