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Ryno

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Posts posted by Ryno

  1. I also run a 5" one with 3" flanges. For the sake of an extra couple of dollars go with the 5", you want the least amount of restriction possible.

    The only problem I had with my Venom Cat is I had ordered it as direct bolt on with a bung to fit the standard temp probe. George said the standard fitting they use is a larger diameter than the Nissan fitting, so I paid extra (through George) for an adapter to space it down to the correct diameter. But as it turns out that didn't work as there was no internal base to seat the probe. So in the end I haven't been able to fit the probe and wasted money in the process.

  2. No that is the mount for the R33... I gave them the measurements so they could modify that mount to suit the R32 (with the RB25DET gearbox) and they made it up for me.

    Now that they have the design my understanding was they were going to advertise it as a new model, though either way if you email them they will make one up for you. Just mention you want it the same as the one they made for Ryan (in Australia) back in March/April.

  3. After getting plenty of motivation from the likes of Antz and $$slowmedown, I decided to jump on the band wagon with some VHT Wrinkle paint. I planned to do just my Nismo strut brace (as the paint was flaking off in places) but ended up also doing the windscreen wiper motor and the upper radiator supports...

    IMG_0906_zpsb8f4aa9e.jpg

    In other news the car has been re-tuned as it was starting to play up in the cold temps (with the tune we did in summer). The car definitely makes more power now, but weren't able to get a max power reading as there was a slight miss at around 5500 - 6000 rpm. It did make 260 rwkw at that point (with the power almost climbing vertically) so I'm guessing peak power is probably at least 280 rwkw.

    To fix the miss I've just changed to a colder plug (BCPR7ES) so we'll see how it goes.

    Also I've just purchased a GTR front bar and Reo (from RBMunkie) so when I can get it painted I'll put that on and work out if I'll have enough clearance to also purchase an ABFlug front diffuser.

    IMG_0907_zpsd41ee6c4.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. We're just trying to help mate... The advise you have got would only make sense if you were building a race car, as the on/off throttle response is definitely better with short runners. However in that case a race engine doesn't need torque down low, as the revs are always kept high.

    Also don't confuse the throttle response you gain (due to the short runners and less intercooler piping) with increased turbo spooling. Your turbo will spool slower with short inlet runners as there is less torque down low and hence less exhaust gas to hit the turbo and help it build boost.

    All the advice you've had in this thread has been sound. If your car is a daily drive, loosing inlet runner length is just stupid, especially with the RB20. For me if you must go to a front facing plenum, your best two options are to either modify you current plenum to change the throttle body location or buy a Plazmaman style plenum top to retain your lower runners.

    Do I know what I'm talking about?

    I have a RB25 in my car and swapped the standard plenum to this when I went to a front mount intercooler....

    e74315f8.jpg

    Any gains I made in throttle response, were rubbish compared to the loss of torque down low and lower spool rate of the turbo. So after 5 years of persisting with this plenum and getting different tunes to try to improve the driveability, I went back to the standard lower runners with a MX performance plenum top.

    IMG_0351_zps0e132526.jpg

    IMG_0455_zps144e6a90.jpg

    That lesson has wasted probably $2000 of my money.... We're not a performance shop trying to convince you to spend money, so we can profit from you.... We're trying to give you advice so you save money!

  5. I agree with the comment above... in most cases going for a front facing plenum is going to be a performance loss, not a gain. This is due to the shorter runner length robbing you of torque low in the rev range. Due to the smaller capacity this will be very apparent with the RB20 engine and make it a pig for day to day driving.

    You can get cheap copies of the Plazmaman style plenum top on eBay, this will retain your lower runners which is probably the best compromise.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/All-New-POLISHED-Nissan-R32-Skyline-RB20DET-RB20-GTS-Intake-Manifold-Plenum-/121040978566?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2e9ac286

  6. The cheapest way to fix your problem is as Dobz says above and go for a standard RB25 turbo. Though you'd be lucky to hit 200 rwkw.

    If you want to stick with the current turbo, you could go for a Mx Performance Exhuast manifold (with 1" runners) and external gate. I have done this with my HKS GT-RS turbo and it has transformed the power delivery. I have also heard of good results with the RB20 (full boost on a GT3076 at 3600rpm) with this manifold setup. Though if you went down this route, you wouldn't get much change out of $2000 once you have it installed and a custom dump made to suit.

    By limiting yourself to less than $1000, you don't really have much option other than the RB25 turbo.

  7. ...sounds like we need a tutorial developed for how to do the kingpin replacement - I'm concerned about mine now :wacko:

    How's the gearbox going Roy? My 20 box lasted for 22 years (with 6 years of that mated to a RB25 making around 240rwkw) and it wasn't until I went for mega torque with my GT-RS that it started making bad noises.

  8. That's a great idea for checking boost leaks... I may have to make something similar, even if I don't find a leak it could be a fun weekend project.

    I take it that your blow off valve recirculates back into the system, as if you had a blow off valve venting to atmosphere I wouldn't have thought pressurising the system like this would be possible.

  9. I was shocked (pardon the pun) by that video... I always assumed we would end up all going down that path but honestly didn't see something like that possible even in the next 10 years. Obviously cost is the inhibiting factor at the moment but you would almost put your money on them dropping massively over the next 10 years, after all how much did a 42" Plamsa cost a decade ago?

    Exactly right... Anyone who has dabbled in Radio Controlled vehicles will back that up. In the last 5 years alone the radio controlled vehicle dynamic has completely changed. Electric motors deliver much more power than a petrol/nitro of equivalent weight. Modern Lipo batteries and brushless motors offer awesome performance, and the price of each in the last 5 years has plummeted.

    For me the biggest hurdle that the electric vehicle faces is not the range, but the time to charge. As if you need to conduct a long drive that will require a recharge on the way, the electric car is not an option. I can't see an electric car refuelling in 5 minutes (like we can with petrol) unless you swapped out the battery packs. And that isn't really viable.

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