tommis85

Sounds interesting It is only the NICEST cruising weather at the moment!

I'll bring my gloss black R32 along...

Just saw a white 33 gtr in my back yard oh wait that's mine oops..

That sounds good Terry - I reckon that will work just fine. Well maybe you can keep an eye out for some 33 or 34 items that someone's throwing out? They'd be half price of the aftermarket ones... Sounds like you're not doing it yourself anymore? Or?

I swapped my factory dumps/down pipes out with split dump pipes....as in, back to back testing, and didn't notice that much of a difference. Maybe see if you can get yourself a set of 2nd hand 33's

Haha yeh, there're a lot of different ways you can go about it and everyone has their own preferences...the last time I did it things came apart and went together quite easily actually. One other thing that you could do while the stuff is off is port match the manifolds. The stock ones were deliberately "miss-matched" by 7-10mm to de-tune the RB26. You may have to take them to a shop for this or get some aftermarket ones. A bit of a gain to be had there with the new turbos Also, while you have the front pipes off get a larger diameter flex joint welded in to them that's not smaller than the pipe dia like the stock one is. I had this happen on mine - no wonder the rear turbos struggle a bit! And...while we're talking exhausts, you should really get new dump pipes for yours. The R32 items are shocking, the R33's are a good upgrade, the R34's are fantastic (welded item, not cast). So yeh, port match, flex joint (or new front pipes) and new downpipes will see you get the most out of your brand new turbos. How's the rest of your exhaust? Do you have a higher flowing cat?

Oh, and make sure you fire it up without the front pipe on....it sounds sick as ;-)

Haha you'll be right - it's actually one of the easier things to do on the car. Just take a heap of photos for your first go and put aside a weekend for it. Also be sure to replace your head studs, nuts and all your copper crush washers. Yes, you can get by without doing that but you risk getting oil and coolant leaks if you "re-crush" copper washers that already have been crushed out once. I replaced all my mani studs/nuts (engine and turbo-to-manifold flanges) As far as removal goes, here are some tips: - remove bonnet and park under good lighting - drain all your coolant and oil - remove all your IC pipework that covers the turbos and group it on the floor with associated nuts and bolts - remove your front pipes - remove the exhaust side cam cover (you will need to so you get better leverage with the 12mm spanner for the mani nuts) - start on the front turbo first, loosen all nuts off equally...you'll see that the more you loosen the nuts off equally, the more room you get when you're able to wobble the turbo around. - take care with the metal oil and water lines....they can take a bit of bending and manhandling but don't push it. - have a heap of cheap 12mm spanners / ratchet spanners on stand-by for the mani nuts...buy the flattest profile ratchet spanner you can afford. Use the cheap 12mm spanners to bend to shape for some of the more awkward mani nuts - you'll see what I mean when you get to them haha Took me about 8 hours to do last time with engine in car. (including swapping all the gear over on the turbos once they're out...water lines, brackets, heat shields and the dump pipes). Some peeps say that it's easier to do with the motor out too...and I dare say it would be, but then that's a heap of extra work too. All much of the muchness really. But yeh, just be sure to keep all your stuff you remove together. Keep nuts, studs and pipes together in piles etc. Every time you remove a major part, take a photo. I did this for mine but hardly needed them.

Believe me.....I know it all. And unfortunately it all comes from experiences. Least I can do is help someone who's about to embark on the same journey...

Just keep in mind money/ecomical wise, under 500hp is best for twins, over 500hp is best for single - golden rule for turbo upgrades. Have a real hard think about how much power you want vs how much you can afford as there are many hidden traps to fall in to with this shiz. I personally would upgrade twins and keep the car at a daily 400hp. Then, from experience, I would throw money at further reliability items and longevity stuff while keeping that same power level. Doing it any other way ends in tears, especially once you start making over 450hp.

Doooo eetttt with the turbo

What's a Nandos meet? Well I did have plans for a cruise on the weekend - my bro and I might go for one (depending on how his spraying goes) if anyone else wants to tag along although right now, all I'm looking forward to, is a sleep in! Crazy week so far =/

Oh that thread hehe...there're a couple of those in here. I think I have spammed all of them lolz I spent a good 2-3 months just reading, reading and more reading - one of these threads is mine too. Worse still are the twin v single threads haha ...straight into wheel spin

Yeh you're right 180Nick, the more meat under the curve the better. Mine are -9's...you've been in it Some peeps can make these come on almost as early as the stockers which I find quite amazing.. No comment Abomonick ...but if I ever have a 3L it will be getting the big single treatment

No worries man...you'll love them. I'd recommend them to everyone who wants the 300kw.....easy mid-12 second car or lower

HKS is just a bit more expensive and comes with a higher rated actuator in most cases. The ones that come with the -9's will need at least 7mm of preload dialed on to them to make them work well - but I can give ya hand with that when the time comes. (Even with a EBC you will still need to wind on the preload or else the wastegates will open at like 6-8 pounds lol giving you a very lazy set of turbos!) The -9's are definitely the new -7 if you know what I mean....most peeps I know regret having gone -7 after going in a car with -9's. The -9's have the pull and lurch of a single turbo....whereas the -7's are often described as being very linear. Depends on what you like I guess.

A lot of -7 peeps make around the 280-310kw while the -9 guys will make around 300-330kw or so....bit of an overlap with these two turbos. They're very alike...the -9 is just trimmed up for an extra 30-50hp or so a bit more top end.

Yep, good idea man...see if you can find a good set, but if not you're much better off going for a set of new (but equivalent) GT2860-7 turbos or their HKS GT-SS equivelant. If you don't mind a tiny bit of more lag go the 2860-9 ones like I did and you will never look back. They're good for around town, but when it comes to the QR straight they will put smile on your dial They are pumping very hard where the ceramics simply run out of puff and rpms. All day every day 290-320kw with them (on average)

:P <-- there wasn't enough tongue

Haha sure thing - you can try out my super-lag-spec R33 N1 turbos All modern turbs have an iconel comp wheel :p Sorry Nick

Just for you Tony haha Sorry I just had it with people trying to get money out of people lately...was had by Avis big time last week Twice the charge on my card that they quoted me.

What are you, a jew?

Ah that's good...yeh the oil does creep up a bit on these hot days man Oh nice! That must've been one of the two resident 35's we have here. Man imagine driving that thing around all day knowing you got so much f**king power

And yeh guys, on the way back from Chris's, just after we were talking about them, I saw the white 35 on James St

Yes it definitely was a nice feed! Bit of a hot one for a cruise though haha! And yeh Clint, +1 with what Nick says there...if you need a hand let me know - ESP is always here to help haha