tommis85

Ferni...now that's what I was suspicious about but didnt have the balls to ask about. The RB26 is such a great engine....why wouldn't they have installed a system that stopped utter noobs from powering out of their driveways on a cold engine??? Well that's all good then bro....I was just wondering as my GTST never did that ;-)

Our GTR's came from a crap, wet and cold climate from Japan so it'd be a good idea to do all the electrical component connections and bolted earthing connections. I noticed that they all could do with a clean so that's what I'll do guys. Let ya know how it goes I guess ;-)

At the top of the block on the left side (when standing infront) and it's the ones with the single lead. It is also closest to the block and it's hidden behind a larger sensor. It is also hidden under the black hose the encases the injector leads.

Ok Steve, I went out and cleaned it just then...it had traces of green/blue oxidation on it so I cleaned it all off with RP7 (for want of a better contact cleaner haha - I should get one of them and then inspect all electrical connections!) See how she goes a bit later

Ah ok man....well, perhaps it would be better if I let my mechanic have a look at it so that I don't bugger something up? See what happens I guess....it shouldnt be too bad hehe - why would they chip my totally stock GTR? Are you referring to one of those gay 30hp chips that people fall for and get installed in their commies?

Steven, ok sweet...I will go and inspect the sensor connectors and see how it goes when I start it up. I never thought of doing that - but then, I never had that problem either ;-) Because surely, Nissan wouldn't put such a strange tune on the car lol that feels so strange to drive ;-)

Ok, thanks heaps guys! That's exactly the answer I was hoping for - that all of you have the same thing! Nothing to worry about then ;-)

Thanks Mr Fanny. Yep...them japs must have harsh winters! Hell, some of them come over with snow tires!

Ah OK well that's all good then. Just making sure nothing is wrong with it - obviously it kicks in when it reaches certain temps when winter comes on like now. Yeh it's like clockwork...it always goes back to normal at exactly the same point on the gauge so it must be exactly what you're saying it is. Thanks for the help guys! Tom

Mike, does your GTR change back to normal at exactly the same temp as mine? Mine is about 1/5 on the temp gauge....so, about 2mm above the lowest line on the temp gauge etc

Mike, I see. Well, I've only heard the click once so far. I'm convinced that it's the cold weather causing something to stick. A switch, a solenoid....a sensor....something somewhere is being affected my the cold and as soon as it reaches a certain temperature it is fixed. You know when you're leaning over the engine and you slightly open up the throttle with your hand, right? You hear a little click that I think comes from the crank angle sensor...and then rev's build up. I swear I heard that click the other morning. By the way, I'm not 100% sure if it's the crank angle sensor that makes the click...it comes from the general area though. Dan, if it has to do with the timing or the TPS....how would the cold temp of the engine influence this? Does timing change when the engine is cold? The thottle is not adjusted for cold start is it?....it's only the additional valves under intake plenum that let more air in to build cold start rpm's????

Guys, here's the link for the new post....please have a read and see if any of this sounds familiar! I'm dying to get to the bottom of it! Thanks Tom

Hi all, I've started to have a little bit of an issue lately with the colder mornings when driving the R33 GTR. I'm not sure if it is directly related to the colder weather or if it's something else, so here goes - see if you can help me as I'm not sure haha. Could be a lot of things: When I start her up in the mornings and also before driving home from work I make sure I let the car idle for at least minute so that it warms a little, but mainly to get oil everywhere. But, when I drive off it feels quit sluggish and surges ever so slightly if you give a little bit of throttle. Mind you, this is not enough throttle to make positive figures on the boost gauge - I never flog a cold car (a mate has described the engine wear to me first hand!) But here's the catch guys....this is where it becomes interesting: Every morning, at exactly the same mark on the temperature gauge (about 1 fifth up the gauge so still quite cold) you'll notice the car become normal in a split second. It drives and accelerate smoothly as though there never was a problem. I swear that the other day I even heard a very faint click at exactly the point where the car stopped it's issues. All of a sudden there's a change in acceleration - a tiny jolt and everything's back to normal. It's hard to describe, but it feels like you give throttle but there's not much response in acceleration....feels very spongie.... I'm curious about it as it looks like it may be sensor / temperature related. Could the cold weather make something stick? Is there something wrong with the *choke* fuel mixtures / AAC valves? Please note that when the engine is warm to hot (above the 1 fifth mark I mentioned) it doesn't have any of these issues. Also, the car is completely stock with stock ECU. Thanks for your help! Tom PS - temperature when this happens is around 5 to 10 degrees in the morning, and around 15 to 20 degrees in the afternoon around 5pm when I head home. Hope this helps...

Dan, haha yeh just the richness mate. They run immensely rich don't they? It would be interesting to see what sort of millage they have when you up it. I actually do have another little problem but I might put it up in a new post - it's also what made me start thinking about resetting the ECU. I'll put a link in here for it when I post it up for you guys.

Hi Steven, would this chip be visible as in being plugged in along side it or is it hidden inside the ECU, integrated with the circuitry? I might crawl in their and have a look first. Mine was 100% stock when it came over...it only had a turbo timer in it and that's it. It has proven genuine k's and also nothing in the engine bay was changed for when it came over ie. pod filters replaced with airbox for compliance etc. Yeh, I'm thinking it will be best for aussie fuel and the altitude (lower air pressure / lower density for AFM to read and mix etc) I live at - should be most noticeable in those areas. Does your GTR have the Nissan smoke screen feature when you drive *enthusiastically* ??

Ok thanks! Nope, mine has no mods at all...it just has a set of mags and that's it haha! I ended up in court with my GTST so I just left the GTR stock. It doesn't even have an exhaust =P Yep, they probably did have it disconnected but doesn't it take almost a day or so for the juice to drain out of the system leaving the ECU with a blank slate? I'll see how it goes anyway. (that's without pumpin the brakes etc) Hmm dunno about the pic...I don't know if the moderators let you put up pr0n ...that's mine in the avatar.

DLOOOK, yeh I thought as much. Do I need to do something with the steering as well...like this full left to right lock etc etc? Or can I just drive off with it and it'll do the rest as I go? I probably should have reset the thing a while ago!

Damn that's not good...and that was entirely caused by the Japanese original tune that only suited it's life in Japan? Ok, well I might get onto one of the local tuners here and see what they can do...I'm not sure if simply disconnecting the battery is a bit rough haha!

When a structural draftsperson models in GTR's into a showroom for a Toyota dealership....that's when you know he drives a Skyline. Hehe...I hope they didn't see it!

Hi all, I'm still learning my ways around my GTR and am wondering if it's a good idea to reset the ECU now that the car is in Australia. I'm thinking that would good to do due to the higher altitude (I live at 600m above sea level - higher than where GTR came from), the poorer fuel RON count, the different temperatures and also the pod filters etc... ...and much more that I'm probably not aware off haha! Are these some good points for doing a reset? I take it that, from other posts, that all you need to do is to disconnect the battery and then bleed any remaining power from the system by stomping on the anchors a couple times (as opposed to waiting 24hrs). I also read that when you reconnect the juice you should then drive the GTR nice and hard through it's paces so that it learns the engine well. What sort of driving should I be doing? Gears, max rpms....speed??? Also, should I do it on a cold or hot engine as I like to let the car idle for a minute or longer on cold mornings (4 degrees at the momment) Please advise ;-) Cheers, Tom

Hi all, thanks for the many replies! I've moved over the weekend so don't have a internet connection at home just yet. Hopefully it will be up tonight so that I can reply more regularly. ...well that's the best question! At this rate the car most likely wouldn't see a race day more than once every 2 months or so. My next day may not happen till like 3 or 4 months yet as I have to save up for these mods, not to mention that I need a new clutch and that on my last race day I may have damaged the 3rd to 4th gear syncro as it crunches at high rev changes (it never used to) So, in otherwords, it will be more road-car than track-car. I'll have to take care in chosing the suspension as my area has the most neglected roads in all of Australia. R338OY ...I reckon that would be the best path to take from all of your comments above. Keep the mods at a sensible level to suit my budget and what I want to use it for. Taking it out on the track in stock trim was the best thing ever as now I can take it out with some additional mild mods and see how it goes then. a20089....yes thanks for all those tips. I am with you all the way especially for your points against winding the boost up. I am aware of those turbo's and hence have been very reluctant to touch them - it's just not worth the gamble I reckon (unless I had the money to replace them straight away and, not to mention the engine damage!) I'd much rather get a proper set of bolt-on upgrade turbos like the GT-SS's and do a proper job with 14-15 pounds rather than make life incredibly hard for what I believe are two GT25's (and not GT28's) Guys, thanks for all the advice, especially in the last post above. You all hit the spot there as far as mild-mod's go despite some of them are not quite cheap lol. I've pretty much realized that driver skill/learning alone will cut the time down on the track so I'll need to "upgrade" that too haha. From what I've read, and from what I deem to suit my budget I'll most likely go: 1. full "street legal" exhaust system to get some better flow on the track 2. brake pad upgrade and disc check over or replacement with slotted items. 3. suspension upgrade (a nice mix to suit daily driving but also mild track work) 4. oiler cooler. I may do this earlier if I can, and also keep thermostat in mind as it gets cool here. Those mods would be plenty. Then, if I'm still alive after that I'll look into the turbo upgrade's to help with them straigh parts of Queensland raceway ;-) Anyway, better get back to work =) Thanks for the help!

Yeh I'm wondering about the LSD too...hmm, I thought they had a nice setup already. ...but I'm all for those points! I'm actually checking out some Tien Monoflex items...dreaming about them....lolz

Hey, thanks for them quick replies guys. Good stuff! Yes, I forgot to mention that I'm running a set of 17" driftteks with 255 Nankang rubbers all round. I'm also running a set of HKS mushroom style pods which are all firmly secured with brackets. I'm yet to get one of them ARC boxes for them. But apart from that she's stock. DJR81...yeh mate, the best thing I can do to shave more time of the laptime is to get professional advice and training for the track. No doubt about it mate seeing that the GTR is a wonderfully designed machine anyway! I'm interested in what you said about the oil cooler...now, I've been told that they have one and so haven't gone looking for it. I take it, that they don't have one? On the track I did notice that the oil temperature did go up to about mid-gauge which made me wonder about the quality of the now "non-existant" cooler haha! How did your car go when you put your lock bar in...big difference? Is the HICAS on the skylines just a heap of marketting w.a.n.k? (00)SKYLINE(00)....yeh mate, I'm planning on the exhaust being my next item in conjunction with a boost controller as I've been warned that the boost, naturally, may want to creep up a bit with a higher flowing exhaust. Yes, it did come with the strut in the engine bay and boot which works a treat (compared to my GTST which doesnt have any of that haha) So guys, when turning the boost up from the factory approx 11 pounds to say 14 pounds will the coil packs and fuel pressure live up to it. With my old skyline I got myself a set of splitfires straight away to handle the higher boost (15 pounds max on S1 steel-wheeled turbo) I really don't want to wind the boost up if I need additional support system upgrades...too risky with the 26!!! Cheers, Tom

Hi all! I had my very first sprints trackday the other day in my stock R33 GTR. The car went exceptionally well once I finally got my race-line and corner speeds under control. It was too easy to go to fast haha - speed is not always the answer. It was an excellent opportunity to see how the stock car performs when put under the handling stresses of the track. I found out about it's strengths and weaknesses in different parts of the course. Keeping in mind that my car is as stock as it can be, I noted these main points: Points for: - excellent braking power in all areas - good handling in the corners despite having highish ride hight (higher than R32's) - nice acceleration out of corners (once I got my exit points right lol) - nice reliability without any overheating etc Points against: - the car, despite it's stiff suspension, likes to roll around a bit in chicanes etc - the car has quite a high ride height - which is where the roll comes from - it doesnt have that much top end power when on the main straights. Power has been traded off for great handling with the torque splitting etc. So yeh guys, those are a couple points of the top of my head. Offcourse there are more lol. My question (finally) is, what sort of light mods could I start off with that would see some improvements for the GTR? Light mods people! I wouldn't mind some suspension tweaks and maybe a slight inscrease in boost to say 12-14 pounds. What do you guys suggest. How do the GTR's respond to a slight boost increase? Coil packs, fuel pressure....surging??? Cheers! Tom

Julz, for sure man - she'll be fresh as. Just going down for a mess around and see what I make of it. First time mate. I downloaded my asaa license form today so in the next month or so I hope to go for some laps....wed or sat arvo sprints is the event. It should be a good day out...so far I've just been out in the gokarts (big carts) but not with a car. The GTR is just a bit gocart so yeh - should be great fun provided I don't spin out into the wall ass first!