ShadowGTR

lanolin cream to help moisturize the rubber, once its had some time to soak in, 303 over the top or solution finish, depending on the type of rubber

are you willing to freight or pickup only? pm a price for the front seats and freight to 3351 if your keen.

after fronts if someone wants rears, freight for the fronts to 3351 vic?

stock steering wheel available?

still available?

Hi all. As the subject suggests I'm after some part numbers or info that can help me out. I'm going through a rebuild of a series 1 r33 gtr box, nissan don't make series 1 gear anymore so its basically being rebuilt as a series 3 and finding alot of little annoying gremlins on the way in the form of series 3 not matching with some series 1 existing parts. I need the 3rd gear synchro setup, I have the outer baulk ring but can't find part numbers for the inner baulk ring and cone, doesn't come up on any part sheets at nissan here. Do the series 3 still use the inner ring + cone or does the series 3 3rd gear have the cone on the gear set itself like the input shaft? Any info is greatly appreciated, cheers.

I'm from Ballarat vic, I imported a car through imports101 years ago, the only issue I had was with the compliance here in vic, 101's service was great. Even being interstate, anytime I needed advice he was always happy to point me in the right direction. I had an engine built here in Ballarat that I put a lot of money into and got shafted hard with an engine that was put together with less care than throwing the parts at the block. The workshop here was having trouble tuning the power fc with the z32 afm's fitted, not long later the mechanic jumped ship and didn't reply to any texts or calls. I sent my car over to WA to 101 to be finished off, tuning and an assortment of other jobs, they tuned it without any hassle other than it was gutless for what it was, something that concerned the both of us, I asked him to pull the motor out, check over it and fit a 101 fabricated extended sump, it was then we saw just how bad the engine was put together. I decided to have the entire car overhauled, they built a mental 2.8, fitted a new computer and cleaned everything up, besides doing what I asked there was also a lot of things they did to go above and beyond, lots of great Ideas we mentioned and I now have a nuts gtr that doesn't skip a beat, starts no worries, runs great and puts everything in my area to shame. Did it cost a lot - yes. did it take time - yes. Even now its back we stay in contact, he keeps me updated on the latest developments and anything I need advice with he's happy to help. Not everyone is going to be happy all the time, there were so many customers when I was over there for powercruise last year that turned up to the shop wanting something done, straight away, and got shitty when it wasn't there ready when they wanted because most of those cases there was a lot more work needed than a simple "fitting" or the classic "it just needs a quick retune" only to find half the sensors are stuffed, the cat has collapsed and the head gasket is blown, I was there for one of those. I'm sorry for the guys that have had problems with them, I've had issues with workshops myself so I know the feeling, but 101 was second to none in my case.

I've seen it in balla a couple of times not that long ago, shame we're a gtr down. After some serious epa then engine issues I'm back on the road, still a work in progress tuning the bitch lol. Black R32 GTR, R34GTR rear spoiler/rims/front brakes. get around on the weekends quite a bit. If anyone would like to meet up just to say hello, exchange numbers etc to make it easier to organise stuff pm me and I'll get back asap, or keep an eye out for me

I have a rebuilt r32 gtr thats suddenly developed a problem. Its running a power fc with z32 afm's, 700cc injectors. I got nabbed by epa and had to revert alot back to standard, then once on the road again it was re-modded, car ran as it should the whole time. Drove it to my brothers house that weekend and it was fine but when I went to leave, the a/f ratio gauge went nuts saying it was leaning out, however the exhaust temp went lower and injector duty was up compared to normal so I'm assuming it just went really rich and the a/f gauge couldn't read it properly. At first I thought the plugs had fouled so I did a few accelerated bursts just enough for some boost to see if it made a difference and the injector duty went through the roof, 20ish% more than usual. Even at idle it registers as lean on the gauge until it gets upto operating temp, then its fine at idle but even the slightest amount or throttle and it goes nuts. It wasn't a problem that gradually came along, it was instant, which leads me to believe its electrical, a sensor or meter that affects the amount of fuel the computer wants to use. The o2 sensors have only done approx 3000km's, the afm's were bought second hand but never used(apparently). Personally I'm thinking its either something wrong with the afm/s either a busted element, faulty circuit or connection. Or as stupid as it sounds maybe even a busted fuse? will be checked tomorrow but its got me stuffed. Anyone else have a similar problem? or have any know how that could help me out? Would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

The package has been running for a few k's now, and its running a power fc. if there was a problem with parts intermingling it should have shown itself by now, but its worth checking out.

not sure on the type of the o2 sensors. they are the bosch replacements for standard. the exhaust temp has been fairly high under constant load at times (900c) could I have burnt them out already?

afm and o2 sensors are brand new. doesn't mean to say they aren't possibly faulty. I have a fuel pressure gauge as well with a big adjustable reg, everything was normal there. its a prosport wide band a/f gauge, 5 wire using a bosch sensor. http://prosportgauges.com/wideband-60mm-ai...mber/White.aspx it had to goto epa for an inspection with boost controller etc removed, so the vacuum/boost line may have come loose on re-installation, would a vacuum leak cause the comp to go nuts that bad? It sounds like the most likely cause if a line simply came off, as the problems literally hit instantly, stopped the car, started it 5 mins later and it was stuffed. The a/f meter an sensor are both brand new, and they are on a seperate loom to everything else so its reading shouldn't affect the way the computer behaves. if it was just a faulty sensor I'd be over the moon.

I have a fairly new built engine approx 7000k and everything has been fairly good. last couple of weeks it has been harder to start at hotter temp(above 60), it starts but takes quite a few rotations, besides that, no prob. the other day i drove to my brothers place and it was fine, when I left there my a/f ratio gauge went ballistic saying it was leaning out (gauge only goes to 20:1 and it was sitting on that) but everything else pointed towards it running rich ie. injector duty was up, exhaust temp was down 100 degrees more than usual and as soon as there was any sort or load there was visible black smoke. At idle the a/f ratio was back to normal (14) but the slightest touch of the pedal and the gauge would go ballistic again. on the way home I overtook a car and when boost hit around 1 bar it surged badly and sounded like a silenced gun going off and the knock reading hit 78. The welsh plug at the back of the head blew out but luckily I was very close to home so it was parked straight away, so I know some of what needs to be done, but I don't think the it simply comes down to a faulty plug, is there anything that could cause excess pressure in the coolant channels? I had a look at my manual and some of the problems it was having can be attributed to faulty sensors, but all the standard readings were fine. and my gauges run on their own sensors. reason I'm asking you guys is because my mechanic is on holidays till the end of the month, so I thought someone here will probably have some light to shed. the car is heavily modified running a very conservative tune at the moment.

Hi all, good thread. I have a similar problem with mine, after a decent engine rebuild its currently running around 450-500bhp, has a tendancy to step out at the top end of 2nd gear so I imagine it may time to get the transfer looked at going by the other posts. But my other main problem is in the launching or kicking the clutch, instead of gripping it shudders violently, like trying to launch a fwd, would that come back to the transfer not gripping or faulty cv joints? ETS gauge doesn't go up very much at all so I don't know if it would be slipping, maybe a fauly attesa pump? let me know your thoughts