Draconis

Okay, I have a RB20DET. I put Tomei cams in there. 256/8.5mm. So, I'm working on the engine since I have recently parted with the shop that did the work for me and went through the FSM and found that the shims are in the valve setup and they are in relation to the clearance and the camshafts. The FSM says there are 70 different types of shims ranging in size with a 0.05mm increments. They range from 2.5mm to 3.75mm... I believe... or something in that range. Has anyone played with cams of this size and can give me some pointers with what else I may need to do with the head? My head is stock with these Tomei cams, which I was told were able to be swapped for the stock cams and will work just fine. Thanks.

I'm looking for the manual for a hks f-con v pro. thanks.

just like it says above. thanks.

So, not to get too far from the topic... I have some questions. First, I'm seeing lots of you guys making the mid 200rwkw... let's take 250 for example... that equates to about 335rwhp. That is a good healthy amount. I also read that the RB20 block can take up to 400hp. Some of you guys have done mods but dont list them all... have any of you guys done over-sized pistons? Reason I ask this is because I'm in the middle of a debate with a shop owner, who owns a R32 RB20DET while I have a Gazelle that has a RB20DET swapped into it. I have read these forums countless times and esp. this thread. We both agree you need bigger injectors, cams, cam gears and a larger turbo coupled with some form of a standalone or ECU management. The only thing we differ on is that he says I will need over-sized pistons... if not, then I'll need a new block soon after due to the limitations of the stock block. But I dont see anyone doing this. I am planning to get 300rwhp or 223.88rwkw. It's not quite up with you guys in this thread... but decently good. The following are the mods I have: RB20DET Plazmaman intake stainless steel high mount exhaust mani t3/t4 (sorry... I bought it and it just came into the shop.. forgot the trim size and all... but power is well enough for 300) 555cc Tomei injectors JGY Customs RB20DET fuel rail Sard Type R fuel regulator Tomei cam gears (256/8.5mm) Cam gears HKS SSQV FMIC Exhaust (2.5in from turbo the goes to 3in when there's space... right below driver/passenger), no cat Splitfire coilpacks GReddy Emanage Ult. using Map sensor The question is, will I need over-sized pistons? I know location and environment plays a large factor, but theoretically, will I be able to achieve my goal? I'll be posting up my results here in the next couple of months. So anyway, this sort of fits with my mods and what I'm hoping for part of this thread.

Did you find out any reason to your problem... It sounds a bit like my issue... I was wondering if you figured anything out.

Okay... I pulled up the Tomei catalog like someone had mentioned in a previous thread and here is what I read from it: Type: Lash (I assume this is the stock hydraulic lifter type?) Duration: 256 Lift: 8.5mm Valve lift: 8.5mm Valve clearence when cold: n/a or - Adjust pulley initial value: 115 Lobe center angle: 32... with a symbol in front So, I assume what I'm looking for is the adjust pulley intial value and the lobe center angle? No one up here plays with rb20s and they think it cannot achieve the power you guys have proven... so finding a tech who knows what to do is slim to none. But if I can find the information that he can use as a base and extrapolate from, then we are in business... otherwise it's just a waste of time testing lots of crap and I really dont have that much money for just about endless tuning.

Okay, I have a set of Tomei Poncams... 256, 8.5mm for my rb20det. Here's the thing... a big part of the reason it is running crappy is because they were not degreed right. I am getting a set of adjustable cam gears since what I was told is incorrect. I have already read through some threads discussing this. They say basically, when using the poncams, just use stock settings or adjust it to the turbo? Is this correct? I am having issues in trying to figure out where to start adjusting.... what are some degrees that many of you guys found to help? Here are some specs from my setup... like usual: Plazmaman intake plenum, FMIC, HKS SSQV, Z32 maf, T3 turbo, top mount exhaust mani, Tomei cams (above), Splitfire coilpacks, Greddy Type S boost controller, Apexi Neo until my Greddy Emanage Ult. with Map sensor. So anyway... any averages or ideas of what I should advance/retard my timing at? Thanks.

What's a CAS and no I dont have a fuel pressure gauge... I think that will be my next thing to buy.

Okay, this has been going on for a couple weeks and during this time I havent figured anything out nor any pattern. I'll be driving like normal... not boosting or anything. I guess you can say like 40 mph or something. Then all of a sudden it will run lean for no reason and of course there's a loss of power. It usually catches itself. Sometimes it takes a second or two but then back to normal. Worst case is that it loses all power so I pull into a parking lot, leave the car in neutral and it catches back to normal. Here's what happened today. I was driving and down shifted to second, came to a rolling stop then started up again. As I started up from my rolling stop there was a bit of hesitation then it was ok. About 20 feet away it did the same thing... this time I pulled over and shifted to neutral but it died by the time I did this. I started up and everything was ok. I drove for about four blocks and the thing runs lean again. I step on the gas a little and it only does worse by making the car jerk. So as the car rolls, I drop the car to neutral and suddenly and my AEM Uego immediately swings to rich. I shift back to gear and it is fine then dies shortly after being too rich... I think it was too rich... I didnt catch the reading on the Uego for I was in traffic. It died so I just turned the key to off then started up the car and it was fine the rest of the way without issue. I have changed out the O2 sensor a couple days ago. I changed the fuel filter in August. I have a RB20DET with stock ecu. Plazmaman intake plenum, HKS SSQV Bov, Tomei 256/8.5 lift cams, top mount stainless steel exhaust mani, T3/T04e, Tial wastegate 38mm, FMIC, stock injectors, Splitfire coils packs, Greddy Type S boost controller (off) and a Neo (+4% on high boost at 6000rpm and up). Any ideas? Like I said before, it doesnt happen all the time. I drove to work and there was no problem. The temp. when this happens varies... no rain or moisture coming down. I am confused. Thanks.

Thanks guys. I went over this a year back and was getting ready for a PFC but then when I got down to it, it's price increased greatly over here and they are incredibly hard to find. And those who do have it, will charge quite a bit... even with my contacts... they cant help me. So I've been looking for an alternative, a friend told me about the autrontic and read up on some threads. Actually this thread has given me more choices than I thought. I am not trying to be different... I know that much when it comes to ECUs, but I'm trying to find something that is good and has a good track record. And When it comes to the RB engines, it's either the Japanese or the Aussies who know what's going on. Very few here in the States fully understand everything about it... and those who do are in a different state... damn... I wish I didnt move from that state.

So, besides a list of options, anyone has specifics on Autronic? I'm looking into that as a replacement for my stock ECU and Neo. Or do you think those two will be fine for 300rwhp in a rb20 with gtr injectors, plazmaman plenum, top mount mani and a t3/t4?

Like it says above of if you know where I can get a hold of one... thanks.

Well, I dont have a Skyline. I have a Nissan Gazelle and am very much interested in doing the GTR conversion from my current RB20DET. i know that the RB26 with 25 tranny is fairly easy to do besides modding and such... but the 4wd... that's totally different. Did they all come with abs? Or can I just get a motor set that doesnt have the abs?

I have been looking on this forum, google and google.au. I am unable to locate a full service manual for a skyline or a skyline gtr. I find the engine service manuals, but I need information on the drivetrain/4wd of the gtr so I can figure out a way for my gtr conversion without having to do the rb25 tranny/rwd setup while using the rb26. thanks.

Well I can tell you, if this works out good, I'll definately start spreading the word from RS Performance (my business) for all those up here in the States who want a PFC for a RB20 and 25... Myself included.

I'm also not using a PFC because none are available up here in the States anymore and as far as I am told, not really anywhere since they are not in production. So I am currently running stock ecu... trying to find a place here in the states to remap my ecu... but am thinking I'm gonna have to buy the unit/send my unit to Australia.

Thanks... I read up to page 25 on that particular thread... I saw lots of high numbers so I assumed I could make the power I wanted... but what I am really looking for is how much until the stock bottom end wants to give... that was in addition.

Okay, the below are a list of mods that will be in effect on my RB20DET. I am wondering as to exactly how much the RB20DET block can handle with stock internals before being unreliable and having serious issues. RB20DET Sliding Performance's top mount/high mount stainless turbo exhaust manifold GT3071R Tial 38mm wastegate set for about 11.603psi/0.8 bar Plazmaman inlet plenum FMIC 3" custom exhaust pipe, no cat, hks carbon ti muffler Splitfire coilpacks Nismo 555cc fuel injectors for rb20 Greddy Type S boost controller Walbro 255 fuel pump optional: cometic metal head gasket/arp studs other: s13 VSLD 4.11 and custom one piece drive shaft Will my car (S12) be able to produce approx. 300rwhp/223.88rwkw? Is this good for a couple dyno pulls only? Or is this good for daily? I do not drive hard, but I dont want my engine falling a part in a couple months. I am unable to find exactly how much power/abuse the RB20DET can take. Thanks.

Okay, I have done some searching and connot find a company that makes an intake plenium for the RB20 that is in the RB26 style... Anyone know of who could help me out and all? I have emailed a couple ppl whom I know, but as to date, no answer... and need one by the 28th of April. Thanks in advance.

Wow.... At first I was, WTF! Then reading more about it and all... Didnt see it coming.

I've been told about this standalone for the RB26DETT called Dapttronic or something... has some relation to "Tweak It Now Performance Shop." It's an Australian company/development... Does anyone know about this or is it totally fictional?

I assume this is connected to the rb20det ecu or is it the car as a whole? Reason I ask is I have a RB20DET that came from a 92 R32 GTST and was wondering if I should be expecting to hear it too. By the way, I swapped the engine and all that good stuff into a Gazelle.

Okay... So I'm prepping for my power upgrade on my RB20DET. I was told by my tech. to not go above 50% of the stock injectors. Reason being, the AFC Neo can only down tune the injectors by 50%. I want to get the 555cc Nismo injectors from Slide. If I was to use the Neo to tune it all the way down 50%, then I should only be above my stock injectors by 50%... is that ok? I'll also be getting the Splitfire coilpacks from Slide too. For the turbo I'll be putting on a GT3071R. I am looking for 300hp to the rear wheels. Can I just use the Neo to tune the engine/injectors along with my Greddy Type S boost controller with my stock ECU... Or should I get another ECU that has been chipped/tuned? I know there are some really good Australian companies that make ECUs for the RB20DET... and if you do advise to get a better ECU than stock, which company do you advise me to go to that's in Australia. Or should I use a non-stock ECU in conjunction with the NEO and boost controller? I'm in the US by the way and I have gone to several shops around for info on the Rb20 and the best way to do it and get different answers that in just about no way match another in the slightest. So this is why I go to you Aussies cause you guys know your shit compared to the US who all seem to not really care anything beyond a sale.

Just wondering as to why no one has seemed to have responded but lots of views. RB20 not worth it? Or am I already on the right track?

Okay, I know I've asked a bit of questions earlier and got a firm understanding of what it takes to get 300 whp reliably... but as I go on up here in the States, I get lots of people telling me lots of things I need to do in addition to what I had in mind. So I will defer the ultimate decision making to you Aussies who know these engines better than anyone that I know of who are in the States. So here it goes: I have a S12. It has a RB20DET in it utilizing the RB20 tranny/gearbox. Mods at the moment is a FMIC and a custom 3" turbo back exhaust with no cat. and a HKS Carbon Titanium muffler. For piggybacks, I have the Apexi Neo and GReddy Type S boost controller installed. I also have a Walbro 255 to power the engine since the stock S12 fuel pump would never have been able to. What else do I need for 300whp reliably. What I do know I need are the following: larger injectors (going for the GTR stock injectors, 440cc) Z32 Maf better/bigger turbo than the stock ceramic one (I've been told 2 different types from members on this forum so I'm confused. I was thinking a T3/T4, but have been told otherwise. Metal head gasket What else, or will this cover it all? Much thanks in advance. Cheers Colin