rs73

Just do a search on youtube for stillen exhaust on G35 (USA Infiniti) if you want to hear how it sounds like... here is one sample http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=rTO6GDMXuCM&...feature=related

Same case as mine. the batteries are basically shitting themselves out as you can imagine how long they've been sitting in the docks. those that survived on cars that landed and complied is just a matter of time before the batteries died. The closest one I found locally (although 1cm shorter - which means you'll need to adjust the bolt on the battery hold down bracket) is either Bosch BNS60LS or Century NS60LS (both are made in bosch anyway). This have the correct polarity position (positive on the right) with 2 types of terminals, big and small. The catch is on mine I have to cut away a corner of the positive terminal cover as the bigger terminal gets in the way. easily done with a cutting knife. They cost about $90-ish from auto stores, can be $100+ depending if there's promotion or not. I've got one lying around but it needs a charge. It's basically a brand new bosch BNS60LS but I left the dome light on 3 days and it flatted out and needed another charge, and I had to buy a new one as at that time the car (not rego'ed yet) was in the wrong position so a jump start cable cannot reach the battery position. and RACV refused to come to help me jump start it as they did not service unregistered car, damn. So I went to buy a new one as I ran out of time to get the car to Vicroads the next day. The bosch battery been sitting in my garage since Feb or March last year. Almost a year old now with little or no charge in it and not being used at all, was only in the car for a few days. So I'm not sure if it can be revived again, and I'm not sure how much it cost in the shop to recharge a battery. You can have it for $20 if you want to take the risk. If it can be recharged again and come back to live (retain its charge), you'll save a lot. It's 400CCA by the way. I think 300-ish CCA is more than enough as that's what I currently use (Century NS60LS)...

Hm, they're not exactly 'bling' so it may be the right thing to do. those 5ZG wheels are kind of 'old style' that was quite popular back in the 90s, but probably not so suited for cars from the millenium Y2K age

they should, although I personally think you'd be better off with +25-ish offset, it will suit the wide guards of the V35. those +37 offset would suit narrow body nissans like the older R33 gtst, but again +25 to +37 is only about 1.2cm it's not that much difference, you can always put a spacer if you want it to protrude out more...

I still think the best look will be if you can find around +25 to +30 offset in this range with between 8.5 to 9.5" wide rims. +37 or above might be ok but if the offset is too big the rims may not have enough clearance if you have a brembo caliper. non-brembo should be fine and give you more choice in offset range.

dealer option 18" on coupes are 18x8" front and 18x8.5" rear with I believe +30 front and +28 rear offset. so that would definitely within your guards, not gonna stick out like a gokart or something, but it will not looked very aggressive stance. I have used 19x8.5" +25 at the front which basically only pushed the front outwards just by about 1-2cm outward compared to stock, and the rear is 19x9.5" +30 which is still within guards but look quite aggressively sticking outward about 2cm than stock. Some people had used +22 or +17 offset with 8.5" wide rims and still fits within the guard, but it will have a very aggressive wide stance. I don't particularly fancy too wide stance, they make the car looks like a b1tch (dog) squatting down for a pee from behind.

very vague question. although the understanding is the less offset the more protrude the rims towards outside, but you can fit a 8.5" wide rims with +25 offset that doesn't stick more than a +15 offset rims with 7.5" width. so looking at offset alone will not answer your question mate... you need to know how wide the rims is.

Unfortunately there were a few R34 NA owners who came up with different rotor size on their car, so we still unsure which ones will fit at the moment, until someone have a spare R34 NA rotors and can measure the diameter, inside hub diameter, inside hub depth, and other measurements, etc. Oh, and of course if it's coming from an R34 NA coupe or sedan and if sedan is it a GT, GTX or something else? Not anymore, they have a proper part number now. See first post: 6. R34 GT-T turbo: F=7957S 310mm RRP $355, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 and 13. R34 GT-T turbo: F=7957G 310mm RRP $465, R=908G 297mm RRP $285

Group buy prices are lower than what's posted in the 1st post above (RRP). those posted prices above are still exactly the same with the 2008 thread. For special group buy price go with the lower prices that's quoted through your pm...

Thank's, I know it's not gonna be a one day job, but I just need a place that is open on Saturday for me to drop off and potentially pick it back up the following Saturday.

Why do missus & large rims extremely incompatible This is what she did in 5 minutes of driving 3 blocks from her office to mine... Any recommendation on good repairer? Prefer someone who is open and can do it on SATURDAY or weekends only...

do you reckon M35 have the same weight distribution with a V35? I thought being a wagon you may wanna put a bit more pressure at the back in case you need to carry some load. Unless you are planning to just put your shopping/groceries at the back only...

I need to go and get a tyre pressure gauge before I can tell you what's in there, or find a reliable petrol station air gauge. I might do it the next time I fill up petrol.

Thank's... Interesting... my old tyres is Kenda. I can't find much info about them... bloody compliance tyres... where the heck do the RAWS come up with all these weird brands from??? I've got Infiniti G35 tyre label that I purchased from USA (although they have english/spanish bilingual and doesn't look like the same with what Nissan and RAWS uses over here in Aust for tyre labels). They are 240kPa front and back, but they are not 40+ psi as you indicated, they are 35psi. So the one on the Japanese label 210 & 214 I would imagine they will be somewhere around 31-32psi. So where did you get your calculation from, are the formula accurate?

That quote is standard price. No matter you install 3, 4, or 10 units, each unit price will cost about that much, you won't find any much 'discount' I paid $800 for our 8kw unit PLUS $500 water pump plus extra $200-300 for extra piping due to we're not having an external facing wall that is big enough to mount the internal unit. So we had to get the water pump in a storage room behind the internal unit that pumps out the water through an additional about 3-4m of piping material over to the outside of the house. Bad house design. If you have an external facing wall that you can use to mount the size of the internal unit, you'll be lucky as that $750 is the only one you have to pay. But insist on a certificate of electrical safety and plumbing from your installer. If they can provide you with it, then you are covered. If they don't want to provide you with such certificate, WALK AWAY, even if they offer you cheap $hit price. But again, it's your house, it's up to you if you want to take risk just for the sake of saving a few hundreds bucks... Our installer is pretty good, but he is usually very booked out like 1-2 months away. I don't think you'd be able to wait that long?

PMs replied, please refer to the new thread for 2009... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rd...ro-t251349.html

Batch 42 now open until 22nd January 2009....

RDA Rotors group buys is back. All discounted GB prices will be quoted to you via pm and is for your eyes only, as RDA also need to protect the interests of their authorised dealers/retailers. For those who are new to this Group Buy, please click the link on my signature to see previous Group Buys and the tremendous response they generated since 2006-2008. There are two types of rotors on offer as below: Standard Slotted Rotors Grooved Dimpled (Dimpled & Slots) - Gold Passivated - more rust resistance More info can be found here: RDA Brakes Products The following are the parts which I can get access to for most Nissans: Sloted Rotors: 1. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909S 280mm RRP $170, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias) 2. R32 GTR (early models): F=7926S 296mm RRP $305, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 3. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693S 296mm RRP $305, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 4. R32 GTR (late model)/R33 GTR/R34 GTR: F=7701S 324mm RRP $355, R=7702S 300mm RRP $355 5. S14/S15 Silvia: F=909S 280mm RRP $170, R=906S RRP $165 6. R34 GT-T turbo: F=7957S 310mm RRP $355, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 7. V35 Skyline / 350Z touring non-brembo: F=954S 296mm $POA, R=7657S 292mm $POA Grooved & Dimpled Rotors: 8. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909G 280mm RRP $305, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias) 9. R32 GTR (early models): F=7926G 296mm RRP $440, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 10. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693G 296mm RRP $465, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 11. R32 GTR (late model)/R33 GTR/R34 GTR: F=7701G 324mm RRP $575, R=7702G 300mm RRP $525 12. S14/S15 Silvia: F=909G 280mm RRP $305, R=906G RRP $285 13. R34 GT-T turbo: F=7957G 310mm RRP $465, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 14. V35 Skyline / 350Z touring non-brembo: F=954G 296mm $POA, R=7657G 292mm $POA 15. V35 Skyline / 350Z track BREMBO: ONLY AVAILABLE AS EBC GROOVED F=GD7122 324mm $POA, R=GD7123 322mm $POA Can also get rotors for the following cars: - S13 CA18DET/SR20DET - R33 GTS non-turbo *) All RRP prices above are per pair, GST inclusive however they DO NOT INCLUDE delivery costs. In addition to rotors, I am now officially offering EBC Green/Red/Yellow pads to suit most Nissan cars above. Please pm me for quote. Deliveries all around Aust in approximately 5-10 business days via road courier (organised by RDA). No pickups available as they'd rather send everything out to keep it simple rather than mocking around with orders and separating pickup and deliveries.

I didn't thought of it. Must be loosing some more dead brain cells at that time... I was thinking to access the lights by removing the front rims and open the wheel well plastic shroud lining. Rather than dropping the bumper. I think that's easier? Anyhow, what wires size should I use for 12V DC (the one going into the balast, not the ignitor after the balast) if I want to extend the wiring? PS: have you checked your email, Chris?

After swapping my rims I am thinking of restoring the HID myself too. The balast plug was cut pretty close to the plug itself so i am wondering if I should find certain type of wire/cable to lengthening the wire? e.g. I heard of people saying 8 gauge, 12 gauge, what are those sizes? What wire is save enough for HID wiring? I don't want to accidentally getting a wire too thin that just overheats and melted or catch fire.

Hm, yeah that's 2 pro against 2 con opinions already.... Originally I wanted something larger as the 18" kinda look small on the shape of the V35, but even with 19" it doesn't look big at all. I think if I'm ever going back to 18" again I want to restore all the horrible gutter rashes on all 4 rims before putting them back on... In the 640x480 pics they didn't show but the scratches were really terrible. That was how I got the car, most likely done in Japan (both side!). Had quotes $350 a piece to restore them back to the factory high silver finish.

What year R32 GTR?

After about 50-60km of driving I found that the ride is a little bit bouncy especially for mid corner bumps. I wonder if the tyre shop has put too much pressure or is it the fact that adding 1kg of unsprung weight onto each corner is enough to upset the handling? The std 18" was supposed to have 210kPa front and 214kPa rear. So i'm not sure going lower profile from 45 to 35 profile would translate to requiring more tyre pressure, or less, or keep it the same? On the road the Nankang NS-II is not really a quiet tyre, perhaps being 245 wide at the front and 275 wide at the rear may contribute to increased road noise due to increased surface contact area. Also the wide tyre seem want to follow every undulation on the road surface during low speed manouvre (ie 30-40km/h) but doesn't feel any difference for speed over 60km/h... No vibrations though although only tested up to about 80km/h on the highway - haven't tested on the freeway yet. Also using the tyre size calculator, I found that the new 19" tyres brings all overall diameter smaller. Front is reduced by 5.6mm (from 579.7mm to 574.1mm) and the rear is reduced by only 2.6mm (from 677.7mm to 675.1mm). Although I heard that reducing the diameter may allow faster acceleration (but lower top speed), however I found that during acceleration the car felt not as powerful as before? Any ideas from you guys if you're some sort of 'tyre experts'?

those concrete tyre stoppers are suppose to be for touch park, Stephen. that is what they are for when reverse parking. that way you'll fit within the box for sure. They are about a metre from the fence. I always reverse park till the back tyre touch the stopper , leaving my boot about 20-30cm from the fence to a plummeting death 3 storey below. make good use whatever is around you, ie I always use the shop window reflection to find out how far i am from the car behind,

Well, yeah, they look similar, but I have never been a fan of those motorbike-style wire spoke wheels, nor chrome, nor those with studs along the edge of the rims. Prefer a clean simple look, and was actually quite like the std 7-spoke wheels. So I was specifically looking for this 10-spoke style, other alternative was the ProDrive GCG-10E but they were even more expensive.