tek_01

cant really get to the hole easily and its bloody hot too yeah i got a turbo, was going to fix it when the turbo failed so i can do it all in one will let yas know what it is in about half hour (going mechanics place now)

do you have an aftermarket BOV that vents to the atmosphere? this could be causing you problems if your idle is set to standard (650 rpm) thats why some people up the idle rpm to try and prevent it from stalling (mine included, idles at about 850rpm..thats how i bought it) just a thought

i never new a leak could sound so bad, will have it checked soon i hope

also have an exhaust leak from the manifold, looks to have a bolt snapped off or not put in, could it be that? going over a mechanics place tonight for a quick check to see whether i should take it to work or not tomorrow

ok as it is now when the car is idling it is a fairly loud ticking/tapping noise sort of like what the injectors sound like but much louder (maybe tappets) when i accelerate this gets louder and also quicker so it sounds like it is in sync with the engine rpm when i get off the throttle it sounds like when it is idling as in it gets slower and softer its at the point now where i cant drive the car the noise is so bad/loud also when on boost it is going so fast its turned into a sort of whistle ill tell u one thing, this is a noise that really concerns me its not just some random little ticking u may hear.

just to add the noise is getting VERY loud, as in it is louder than my car eveyone car hear it, it is there all the time now non stop i got a screwdriver and put one end to any suspect parts like the rocker covver, turbo etc but i couldnt hear anything ticking help =(

you add it to your engine oil, its to free up tappets/lifters i think thats the one he is talking about you might be able to get it from servo if they have a few car products

hello fellas just noticed a weird sound coming from the egine bay of my r33 a couple days ago it would only be audible when i turn on the car and its still cool but once it warms up it goes away but now its getting real bad and never goes away noise sounds like its ticking like injectrs do so when its idling its ticking about 4 times a second. and i rev it it gets faster and faster, especially when im actually driving and hit boost it goes so quick its like a sort of whistle i thought it was the BOV faulty somehow but i listened under the bonnet this mornign and it seems like it is coming from the back of the engine close to the firewall where the spark plugs are around there in the camshaft housing. could even go as bad as saying it sounds like there is no oil getting to the tappets also what is that thing ontop of the motor right at the back it has a connector either side, is it the ingiter or something? could it be that? need some help as all mechanics are closed today so i dont want to destroy it by thetime it gets looked at thanks

yeah i said 300kw max, that being maybe in a couple years time it will get there also another thought does the a/c fan have to be removed when installing a gtr cooler or any cooler for that matter?

the main difference is cutting a hole in the engine bay and also possibly trimming fan blades to suit the piping which is 2 things i dont want to do i am on a budget its either i get this setup or a just jap one for under 500 or wait 6months or more to get a blitz lm kit but from what ive read and the kw im aiming for(300rwkw max), no use getting brand name ones

yeah i dont want to cut the car... my last car was bodgy i want to keep this one in good nick lol i dont know how the whole system works but its already got a side mount cooler so id guess its just a matter of extending those pipes to suit a front mount? or i could be guessing wrong

i think it alters the reading the computer gets from the afm and fools it into thinking its getting less than what it really is someone correct me if im wrong

hello fellas just was contemplating buying a gtr intercooler off an r32 i think its from. would i be able to get the pipes done for under $400 i live in sydney and am after a reputable shop to do it also if possible id like to keep the standard cooler pipes and NOT have to cut into my engine bay so would it be too much of a hassle to get pipes made up like that ??? OR i could go for the jj 400 dollar job but the gtr ones are black (which id rather) and the jj ones u have to cut into engine bay which is dont like thanks

what is the condition of it? is it perfect condition or any marks etc? is it the standard r33 black colour?

would u post the wing to sydney? how much including post for just the black one

thats correct and mine was doing that if u boosted it ever so slightly runs much better as i went for a nice drive tonight, 4people in the car and it still moves, was happy worth the money if it works in the end now i got another noise....bloody hell sound like the bov is leaking or failing somehow ... sort of sounds like a massive turbo winding up but its getting chopped up by blades or something (sounds like a bird) hard to explain only happens on boost, hope its not the turbo??

im interested in the pods too if onemanhunt doesnt want them.. id also like to see pics before buying

went to another workshop today, they had a look at it and said it was the computer limiting it, so yeah put on the hks fuel cut defender for the timer being, upped the boost to 10psi got much better results, as they should be i rekon btw; spark plugs are fine as are my coil packs, no misfiring or anything like that also thanks to kennedy for helping me out the other day

also about the afr being about 10. your correct in saying it was worse but the dynodoesnt rread any more. when putting on the fpr it seems to have kept it at a bit better level so i dont know... this has got me stuffed

i was told by a couple people that rbs dont like iridiums much and platinums were suited better for my application. i dont have no plumb back bov as this is how i bought the car from the dealer. i will take off the fpr if i happen to do some woork on it again today

well at this stage there is nothing really to "tune" is there? i dont want to waste money again to hear that they dont know waht the problem is

anyone want to help me gap them tomorrow? lol dont have a feeler gauge

yeah it is rich it should be around 12 or something, but i cant do nothing about that until i get a computer right? the spark plugs are gapped at 1.0mm just changed them a week aggo with platinums. the coils seemed ok but never looked at them 100%. there sometimes seem to be a little flatspot and then it kicks on again , it doesnt backfire only sometime on the shifting of gears but not very loud

fpr is brand new nismo item, so im pretty sure its good unless it came faulty from factory im using standard airbox atm until my cai setup arrives.. we played around with the timing but only got worse results its like as soon as it hit about 110kw it just shits itself, with higher boost its MUCH more of a dip, dips down to about 70kw any way i can check afm ? my other mechanic put his computer on it and only error was the HICAS was getting no signal all other sensors were fine

hey fellas just went and got on the dyno for the first time to see how my car is performing asi had suspicions it was a tad slower than other standard skylines mods so far are turbo back kakimoto exhaust, atmo BOV, thats pretty much it for engine wise my first run was 132rwkw which was a bit low hence why my car didnt feel very quick compared to others after a few more runs which were pretty equal we put a nismo fpr on and also the turbotech boost controller... ths is where the problems began at stock boost it was ok almost the same as before but as soon as we ran a bit more boost it (as little as 9-10psi) will have a bad power curve like the ecu is retarding/lowering boost or something to that extent and was much lower power than stock pretty much all we tried turned out bad so ended up putting the boost back on 8psi with the turbotech (122rwkw this time, lost 10kw from stock although the day did get hotter by about 5 degrees is that makes any difference) am i going into rich and retard mode or something like that? the mechanic didnt have too much experience with r33s so he didnt have much more of an idea here is a picture of the dyno results (green line = stock, red = with fpr and boost controller, black is running about 10-11psi) someone help please!! lol what can i do? is the only option an aftermarket computer?