TriniGT

Did some more cleaning a couple days back and also replaced some more welsch / core plugs. Cleaned the Exhaust side and sprayed it a little. Came out alright but nothing special, some pics, Front Shot with Cam gears set at timing marks, Oil Pump installed and water Pump installed, Rear Shot look at the Water Core Plug, it's setup so that the rear core plug cannot blow off under high HP, Good thing I didn't get rid of these, Tomei Exhaust Gaskets, Then removed these two as I have two new ones currently being shipped, Tried cleaning the engine stamp, yes no engine number, will clean it thoroughly later on, Found a small core plug inside the thermostat housing area, was ticklish but replaced it, Cleaned the cam bolts and head somewhat and you can faintly see the cam specs engraved, Nismo custom 272 9.7 intake and exhaust, And lastly, I cleaned the oil cap and it reads, I Wish You Success 340Km/h Pray to God by Dee's Club, it is staying cause it is pure JDM, apparently Dee's Club owns JDM-Option Japan .

Send it my way I need one, I am going bottom mount single. Do I spot a URAS rear fenders setup? Car looks sweet ass, is it the inner ribs that are rubbing?

Okay not much done today, only began the cleanup process on the block, cleaned the intake side and painted it and then removed the welsch / core plugs and replaced, came out alright. Note to anyone trying this, tap to the left or right of the plug with a hammer and screwdriver, when it starts tilting tap gently, almost lost a plug in the block today, had to take a hardwire and bend it and fiddle to get it up and then a pliers to pull it out, was a little scary. Hopefully the exhaust side to follow soon. My mini project today was the fuel injectors, they were not the cleanest and a bit rusted so decided to try and refurbish then a little. This is what they looked like when I removed them from the rail, This is what I am using to get the job done, trusty ole Dremel that has won many a battle with all sorts of tips, First off, all seals were removed, they will all be replaced in any event, they are quite pricey and will run a bill of a couple hundred, seriously, First pass with the Dremel on the first injector, Now five more times , All prepped to paint, Luckily had these already for the job, from right to left, primer, engine enamel black and clearcoat, All I could find at the time to hold them in place, Primed, Base Coat, Cleared, Drying for the night, That's all for now. Please note that is not overspray from me, from factory all these damn RB injectors have overspray, i tried cleaning them up a little. Hopefully i can get new pintle caps as well as one has a crack and they are not in the best condition.

Anyone, I want to close up the bottom-end?

The gasket kit I got came with a gasket instead of an oring for the oil pickup like the R32 originally came with, can I use this without any problems with oil pressure, I see the gasket has a pressed outline the same diameter as the original o-ring and if it can be used what orientation should the gasket be, fitted in the grove side of the strainer? Is this the new type of gasket for the R32's?

Thanks guys, hopefully I can get all the wiring sorted as that is my main concern. The bodywork should be alright. Can anyone answer my two concerns in the last post?

Okay now two questions, I got replacement welsch plugs but the water ones are considerably deeper, see pics below. Will this hinder coolant flow through the tube and is it something I should worry about? Got the crank and the cam gears at markings with the timing belt off, thanks again Rob and others. Next question, the gasket kit I got came with a gasket instead of an oring for the oil pickup like the R32 originally came with, can I use this without any problems with oil pressure, I see the gasket has a pressed outline the same diameter as the original o-ring and if it can be used what orientation should the gasket be, fitted in the grove side of the strainer?

Didn't get much done today, had to do some running around but took some time to clean some of the bolt-on parts, oil pump, rear crankshaft seal holder, block and head, throttle adapter and upper balance tube. A couple of pics of the progress, first up the oil pump, Oil pump Piston Removed, Units soaked in Diesel and cleaned somewhat, Oil Pump Cleaned, Front Seal Removed, Oil Pump Gear inspected and no cracks or uneven wear, reassembled with some oil to prelube it and also the piston and then some high temp permatex lube on the screws and assembly was done, Gasket kit is in and in use immediately , Intake Manifold / Balance Tube refurb and reseal, Scrapping, New Upper Seals for Balance Tube and fresh Silicone for the lower coolant tube, Now what I didn't take pics of was the cleanup process, with the use of a steel brush and other abrasives, came up okay. I am still concerned of the flow from the balance tube to the head so if I get another balance tube I may tackle the porting but will see. I cleaned and refitted rear crank seal holder and seal and fitted the oil pump and a fresh front seal as well. Got around to cleaning the head and block a little as well, needs a proper cleaning and will treat and paint over the weekend and same time remove the welsch plugs and go look for replacements. Removed the water pump and I am seeing what looks like some slight pitting so may order an N1 pump, pics will be taken of the pitting to confirm, looks minor but may just get one for safety. Other than that I am needing to fit the oil pickup and then the lower sump and then I can begin cleaning the cams and head and then I can begin fitting more exterior stuff. That's all for now.

I currently have a couple of R32 harnesses from previous engines and also access to an R33 GTR engine and dashboard harness. Is it possible to use the entire R33 GTR dashboard harness and adapt the R34 GTR instrument Panel to suit it? If it is an easier swap I can do that.

Hi all, I am currently swapping in an RB26DETT into an auto R34 GT Four four-door. I am fine with the mechanical but stumped on the electrical, I have some electrical background but I am thinking this is a pretty detailed job. I want everything back like factory when done and need some ideas on how to do this. I know there is the Attessa wiring and also the fact that the car is originally an auto there is the auto transmission wiring as well that I have to deal with. Anyone has done this and can guide me, PM me if need be. Jason.

D or L Jetro?

I am guessing does not fit an R34 sedan right?

So should I reattach the belt and turn the crank or just turn the crank and manually turn the cam gears to line up with the markers?

Anyone can give me some advice?

Okay I know I am gonna get flamed for this but I jumped the gun on my project and began scrapping the exterior engine items and also in so doing while trying to get to the oil pump I had to remove my timing belt and crank gear. Problem now is that I did not set the cam gears to the markers and the crank appropriately. Any advice as I cannot say for certain that the crank is at the same position since I removed it, it is definitely not been turned more than a couple of teether on the flywheel side so what are my options? Will it be necessary to remove the head and ensure that cylinder 1 is a TDC and then ensure that the cam gears are at the markers before torquing it back or can I do something else to get everything back where it should be? I currently have the sump off so was wondering if I can somehow turn the crank and manually turn the gears to get it set or should I just swap back on the front crank gear without the oil pump and rotate the entire assembly until it is at the markers? Any advice is greatly appreciated, yes I know I made a huge mistake but need to correct it. I have parts on order for the engine so I am waiting for those to be shipped in, gasket kit, adjustable gears, tensioner stud, water hard tubes, tensioner and idler pullies, new timing belt, coolant and vacuum lines etc so wanted to get things prepped for assembly.

I knew the engine had parts, and needed work but it is coming together nicely, first problem today, dropped the last bolt from the oil pickup into the engine, borrowed a trusty wire and magnet, cleaned it thoroughly first and then went in and removed the bolt. The condition of the block is good, crank is stock, piston are forged or at least N1 forged pistons, but thinking if they used carillos then it had to be uprated, checked the oil pump and definitely an HKS as confirmed from RHDjapan at a price tag of $1300USD, the carillos are set at a whopping $2000USD. As for the intake throttle plate I may take a chance and try to match port the other I have off the engine and see if I can do a better job at matching them as said before they may hinder flow a little. I removed the rear seal and have it soaking right now and need to get an OEM replacement ASAP along with an OEM Oil Pump gasket replacement, hoping Massy has these that I can pickup individually or maybe I am lucky and they have a complete gasket kit for the RB26. Will find out tomorrow. I need the oil pump gasket, rear seal and oil pickup seal to be able to reseal the sump and call it a day for the bottom engine refresh. I have covered the bottom end with clean t-shirts that are lint free for now until I get the seals. Gonna tackle the oil pump in a bit and clean that up and have it waiting and then scrape adn clean the front and rear areas and prep them for when I get the seals and gaskets. Oil pickup and baffle plates and windage trays have been cleaned and already bolted on the windage trays. Left all the bolts soaking in kerosene and picked up some thinners to clean things before I re-install them. Right now looking for some grey silicone gasket as I don't like the new red one that they sell with gasket kits, the colour looks horrid on a clean engine. The oil pump is confirmed an HKS unit and I checked the wear on the inner gear already and it is very slight, no cracks either, I am gonna open it up nevertheless and clean it and loctite the screws for the backing plate up nice so they don't come out as they notoriously do. I am also gonna check the diameter on the oil return holes to the rear on the head to see if they were widened from the standard 10mm, they usually widen them to 11mm to aid quicker oil return, I am gonna get the sump tapped for this very reason to allow the crankcase to breathe better and not keep a pressure building on the rear oil return galleries and keeping the oil in the head and starving the crank. We'll see how that goes. Some pics, Cleaned Extended Sump Baffling, Windage Trays Cleaned and Refitted, Forged Goodness, Rear Crankshaft Seal, will be replaced, Rear Crankshaft looking proper, The Suspect, last bolt to be scrapped and he takes a dive, Before Windage Trays go in, OEM N1 Crankshaft, Cleaned and Modded Oil Pickup / Strainer, Cleaned and Modded Windage Trays,

Okay got some answers today wondering what else there was in the engine. Well we know the Carillo Rods, OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch Setup in excellent condition, Extended Oil Pickup to go with the Trust (Greddy) Sump, Comparing an upgraded supposedly HKS Oil Pump to an OEM one, Yes Smell as I hoped, newer crank with longer snout, Scrutinizing the Oil Pump, will open and clean and loctite it tomorrow, The Writing Baffles me, Dirty Sump with Greddy Baffle and Extended Sump, Cleaned up with Pitch Oil Gonna see if I can drill the oil return holes wider to aid quicker oil return to the sump, may also weld a crank case ventilation point above the baffle on the driverside. Cleaned Silicone off for refitting, Cracked the front diff open and it doesn't seem upgraded but I could be wrong, 9:37 (4.1) front diff Tomorrow i will remove the crakshaft baffling plates and will try and get some pics of the pistons, will also remove the back seal as both the back seal and oil pump gasket are being replaced as soon as, casting from the water passages already cleaned up for a better flow, they have thought of everything , Gonna order ATI Damper, HKS Cam Gears, yes for the bling factor as they look awesome and are adjustable, full Gasket Kit, and Replacement Silicone Hose Kit. Once those are in then it is a matter of mounting and picking up some splitfire coilpacks, OEM replacement harness and some form of management i.e. Power FC / AEM / Vipec etc. Will have a better look at the pistons and crankshaft tomorrow but the bore looks really good, will get some more pics.

I did some work tonight and got the gearbox off and yes it is an OS clutch, seems to be a triple but will need to remove it to remove the sump so I can check the discs same time. Looks pretty good condition-wise. The gearbox from further review looks to be stock, I haven't opened it but the only things that have red silicone on it are the filler and drain plugs, everything else looks pretty much like my other 26 box, well I have a spare in any event. Will check the front diff when I get the sump off, but from the pics you can see the extended sump and will check the little oil I drain to see what it looks like and check for filings same time, you can never tell. Looked at both the water pump and the oil pump and they are not stock, not saying they are upgrades but they are not stock as I have old stock ones to compare. The oil pump has something engraved on it and the number of blades on the water pump is much more and is in very good condition. Now some pics, Engraved Oil Pump

Okay couldn't resist, scrapped the turbo side completely, needless to say, I am gonna get new intake and exhaust studs when I am cleaning up, some pics and some research to do. :D :D :D :D, Intake Side, Some Old Garrett, will do some research.

Now ever since I had my GTT I had gathered some parts, some were sold (which I am killing myself for) but some was also kept, I still have in my possession, Nismo Front Bumper, GTR Side skirts and nismo lower trim, GTR rear bumper with Nismo spats, V-Spec back half, with diffuser brackets, and rear fenders, left side has damage but will be fixed when doing the fender transplant, GTR fuel lid and fuel filler neck, GTR MFD, GTR A/C Control, GTR A-pillar Pod, GTR Rear Spoiler, GTR full interior, not sure if the rear seats can somehow work but hopefully the front seats are bolt-in because of the four wheel floor plan. Things needed now that they are sold is a Carbon GTR bonnet (hopefully a Z-tune style), GTR front fenders, GTR Instrument Panel and GTR Stereo Surround. Now the plan is to swap in an RB26DETT, came across one a friend imported and decided to take a chance and purchase it, it's an R32 RB26DET, with some HKS bottom mounted big single variant, maybe a T45S or T51S setup, I have began the scrap down process to see what I am dealing with and also to refresh the engine with new seals and gaskets and also to paint and replace all hoses with silicone ones. So far from what I can see this is it, no coilpacks and ECU (seem to have an HKS F-CON before), SARD 700CC light blue injectors, Upgraded Individual Throttle Bodies (blue), Fully match ported intake setup from throttles to head, seems to be new guides as well. Removed the cam covers and more goodness, cams with N1 on it on the exhaust side and to the end engraved 272 9.7 EXH and 272 9.7 INT, looked at the bucket area and the area where the buckets are fitted is grooved not sure if that is stock or not but it is to allow the lobes to pass, some sort of old school adjustable cam gears, Aftermarket fuel rail with AN fittings and braided lines, looked at the block and it is a 24U block . It came with an oil cooler and oil filter relocator, thick four core Trust Intercooler that I am hoping to pickup, intercooler piping, big ass 4" downpipe, may refab it though as it is flattened to the bottom. Haven't tackled the turbo side yet but the intake side is scrapped already and gonna place an order for the entire gasket and seal kit and replacement silicone hoses. Already lined up a set of Splitfire coilpacks and still deciding what management to run, AEM or Power FC or maybe even a Vipec. I have not opened the gearbox to see the clutch but was told that it is at least a twin disc or triple OS setup. Looked at the gearbox and it has seemed to have been opened at some point, hoping that it may have some goodies as well for the power that this thing may be pushing but I can't say for sure. It also came with a huge ass HKS regulator and a bunch of gauges of all sorts. Sump has been extended and am told that the rear diff is upgraded so hoping the front is as well. The rear suspension has all Nismo replacement arms as well on it, maybe all but the RUCAS can be swapped to the GT FOUR, time will tell. Plan is to swap the GTR R34 rear spindles and use some Aragosta R33 coilovers my friend has on it and swap the GTR R34 front spindles and refit my R34 Brembos that I have has on my Silvia seeing as that is up for sale. Let me know what you think of my setup and plans thus far and some guidance please as to how to refresh and install. A couple snaps, More pics of the progress to follow

Now back to reality and this is what I am working with,

Well I picked this car up from a friend that moved on and I told him that if ever he was looking at selling to keep me in mind, main reason was that it was four door and also it was a GT four, best of both worlds I guess . This project will take some time but the ultimate goal is to give it the GTR look with some power. This is my inspiration and is exactly what I am shooting for,

Just sent them an email, thanks Paul.

Yeah I have google and even check yahoo japan auction sites looking for something like it but no luck. Will do some more investigating.

Okay got the turbo setup off and this is the tag to the back on the center cartridge, anyone know what power it can produce? Front wheel looks to be 60-62mm and the exh wheel is 65mm. Back housing is 0.90 and the comp housing is 84 A/R