TTT

mods - "YOU CAN DO IT. CUT HIS FCUKING ACCOUNT OFF"

hahahahaha... you own a series 1 r33 and are calling series 1 S14's ugly? what a knob

bahahahahahahaha Green

personally I'd pay the extra to have the RB30 and ECU.. especially when you calculate how much you'd spend to get that power and drivability yourself. good luck with your sale mate and good choice of car to upgrade to. I'd be interested in your progress and problems you might run in to with rb30ing the gts4

what mods do you have and what sort of power levels are you at to make enough airflow to make the stock bov make fluttering noises? Note sure if ONE gtr bov will be better, but the pair of them seem to be a good thing

Thank Fcuk someone finally said it. but out of RB25 or 1jz, without a doubt, I'd say 1jz

I live in Sydney. I drive around with the doors locked and windows up. if someone asks me a question about my car, I take one of 2 options. 1.) 6000rpm, side step clutch, get the fcuk out of there. 2.) get out of car with clublock and beat them till they can't remember who or where they are. and therefore my car is safe as they will not remember the conversation.

just as a guide, my S14 had 175rwkw using exhaust, FMIC, pod, 1 bar boost, SAFC. ran a best of 13.8 with all stereo, heavy 17's, full tank of fuel. best 60" time I got was 1.9 my options would be 1.) S14 2.) R33 3.) R32 Oddly enough, the current car I have is an R32 4 door GTS4.

I've had an R32 gtst, then a series 1 S14. outy of those 2, I'd have the S14. here is mine before a theif thought he deserved it more than me... I don't think it's ugly at all. I say it's the original and the best.

one of my old corolla's were getting new shocks and springs. so that afternoon, we cut the old ones and took photos. then pulled them off and put the new ones on. no, we didn't drive it. here you go. happy?

yeh... I just didn't want to come out and say it like you did..

can i ask why you stated a certain PSI that you want to run rather than saying what turbo and engine parts are required to get XXX horse power? why is the number you see on your boost gauge the important part?

so going by your theory, the rb26dett is even worse than the rb20. is that right? anyway, these RB20 is better than RB25 threads are just stupid. each to their own. Roy and his love for his car is easy to see. no problems around town cause he is a law obiding citizen. his car needs 4200rpmish to get fun. on the street that is not going to happen. so he can potter along and then go crazy on the track. but me personally, I can't stand the lazy feeling of the RB20. and will go straight to 30 when I can. especially when my one weighs the same as a GTR but with only the 20 in there.

I hate it when Roy speaks logically.

det = no no for P platers now

I have a cat back 3.5 Inch system for sale. you will need to get a new muffler. I'm after $150. you'd be hard pressed getting pipework for that kinda money. it has a center muffler but the rear muffler is crushed. came off R33 gtst pm me if you want details

Buy a VDO one for piss all. it is black with white numbers. it lights up regular bulb colour. comes in many sizes. they are very accurate. nothing fancy, just shows you what you want.

security - I'd suggest you do some readin of the RB30 thread that is a sticky on the Forced Induction forum. it's only 158 pages

your question is wether it's worth REBUILDING an Rb20 or buying an RB25? out of those 2 options only, I'd buy a 25. however, I say that if you have enough money to BUY and fit and tune an RB25, you have enough money to build, fit and tune an RB30det. which ofcourse is my pick of the RB engines.

P platers have should one of the following.. should be given to you with your license.. hahahaha or if you got a little more cash both of those will be more enjoyable and easire to sell later than a NA 300zx or R32

SOLD

if you build this so called "Strong rb25 bottom end" and your tune is shit or bleed valve spikes or fuel pump is weak, then your 2K maybe 3K bottom end is going to have the same death as your current one. and RB30 bottom end is worth $100. if you break it, just get another. you could break 5 or 10 rb30 bottom ends before it costs the same as a built rb25 bottom end. and I am yet to see someone on these forums who built a stock rb30 bottom end say they broke one. the guy that used a stock rb30 bottom end and stock 25 head is sky30. his car makes 312rwkw or something. here is a quick quote from the RB30 thread.

don't bother buying a non turbo skyline. they are shit. don't care what anyone says. you are young, inexperienced, and need a car. get either a corolla, liberty GX (LX is front wheel drive, gx are 4wd which you can easily get an RS Turbo engine for it later if you wish). if you must have a skyline, then get an AUS delivered R31. it's a 3L and has plenty of torque to get you around. if I was in your shoes, I'd get a twin cam corolla and 3 years later once off your P's, and with all the money you saved on petrol and fines and defects, get a skyline gtst or GTR if you can afford. NA import skyline = shit

nice car. pity you butchered it with those ugly shiny wheels, intercooler and body kit. my opinion only of course.

I was going to ask that. I think you have to remoe the rear seats, then the parcel tray cover just lifts off. anyone know for sure?