TTT

that is a great job on the cooler pipes. I would seriously consider doing that full time if I had the ability to make it look like that in the end. One question. what paint did you use? just gloss black regular spray can paint or is it engine enamel which would not flake off in high temps.

That would have been the smart thing to do.. But I figured this place would get more hits.. Can a mod please move this to the CEFFO forum. cheers.

can anyone help with these questions... weight? which model RB20? red or silver top? do they have Bovs stock? how much room is in the back seats? more so than the Skyline sedans? is the suspension interchangable from R32 skylines? or does it share it's suspension setup with S13's which is another one I've heard. wheel PCD and stud pattern? gearbox same as R32 gtst? diff same as R32 GTST? What brakes? thanks in advance..

Stock RB20det powered R32 GTST cars run 10 psi in standard form. so telling him to run 10 psi max is kinda useless. $3000 can buy you plenty. already mentioned most but if I were in your shoes (and I was) I would go budget (and I did) $500 - Cat back system (you already have front part of exhaust you said) $50 - Shield and Cold air intake to that pod.. (I used PVC plumbing pipe to make the CAI and clarks rubber shielded foam for the partition. $150 - Walbro fuel pump (255L/hour flow capability - Plenty for what that rb20 will ever make. $50 - second hand turbo XS bleed valve $550 - purchase and install and R33 turbo using R32 turbo's wastegate acutator. $1000 - GTR intercooler and custom piping. $300 - Rechip of stock ECU from TOSHI from these forums. Basically he gives you a prechipped ECU for and takes yours.. or he could make a chip for you for even less. $200 - Some time on the dyno to make sure everything is working right. $2800 = Total. all of the above, with a boost setting of about 14psi, you will see close to or over 170rwkw. I doubt the VRX will see much more than the rear lights,smoke and rubber.

I've got a hybrid copy on mine.. and am happy with it. but next car that I do an intercooler for I will use the GTR R33/34 cooler. I just think that being tube and fin it will let more air to the radiator (Not that I have any heating issues at the moment with the hybrid copy bar and plate) AND I like the end tank design of the gtr cooler much better than the ones found on the hybrid and copies. AND the gtr tube and fin ones are lighter.

I think GCG in sydney can hi flow your stock turbo to be able to produce 500hp worth of air. I belive that costs about $2250 (might have to have another look) NOTE: This does not mean that you will make 500hp.. you will require other mods to reach any where near close to that. the PFC might only make 15rwkw more than now but it will make bit moe torque and your car's tune will be safe. also, with each mod you do, it's only a little bit more tuning required to get it right. the way the car revs/builds boost will change also. considering you have a FMIC and fuel pump, your air:fuel mixtures could be anything at the moment. so I still think it's worth it to get a PFC for the R33.

definitely not a hi flow. RB25's with the above mods PLUS PFC get just over 200rwkw with stock turbo.

yeh well I'm sick of people in the back complaining that they can't feel their legs.. So I figure, I can sell the S14, buy a cheaper R32 4 door and then save some money for the engine conversion I plan to do. that way I have 4 doors which is much easier to live with, and won't worry about the mechanical side as the engine will be coming out. so in "theory", I should have a car which will owe me under $20K in the end, and have a new engine, suspension and interior (gotta do the interior as the 89 model r32 sedan's suck a$$)

I didn't think the skyline gtst lsd's were Viscous...

yeh air flow from an RB30det at 17psi will do that to stock mitsubishi bovs..

you're in melbourne.. the home of the VL turbo. hear the sound when they change gears? sounds like a pidgeon squaking.. that is the sound.

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=1875 $12100 landed. so what will be rough cost with 12 months rego? Under $15K Has anyone imported something this modified? would it be reliable?

hi. will you consider a swap? or is this a sale only. Pm me if you prefer. thanks.

the fluttering on full boost with stock bov is obviously cause it can't flow enough air back. after market bov should do the trick. GFB plumbacks are good. you can usually pick one up second hand for about $150-$200 If it still flutters, then I would suggest that maybe the bov return line can't handle the amount of air it has to flow back. again, easy fix... just replace the metal twisty retun line with a large diameter rubber hose.

the boost gauge line needs to go to a vacuum line that is after the throttle body. you can use the same one that the bov uses or same one that the fuel regulator uses, or even the one that the EGR stuff uses. any of those vacuum lines will be fine. all you do is cut the hose, and "T" in your boost gauge.

***ing stupid flutter questions. Learn to search you dumb mofos. one last time for the dummies.. 1.) there is no such thing as WASTEGATE flutter/chatter... Please don't use this terms again. 2.) fluttering is caused when air goes back through the turbo. It can be heard louder if you have a less restrictive air intake like a pod filter instead of stock air box which muffles the sound. 3.) NO BOV'S MAKE FLUTTERING NOISES. NONE!!! they all make a single release sound of some sort, like pssht or squeek for the HKS range. EVEN the sequential bovs.. sequential simply means that they have some sort of twin chamber and 2 pistons in them... they simply work slightly different to the normal ones like turbo smart. if you adjust them to be tight, then they won't open on gear changes and you will hear fluttering noise from your air intake. 4.)don't worry about it being bad for the turbo or not... there is no definite answer. 5.)if your car has a stock bov (which is actually called a COMPRESSOR BYPASS VALVE to bypass compressed air from the compressor during gear changes), then just leave it as is. you will find that aftermarket or no bov will make the car feel weird.. stall, run rich, unstable idle, backfire, jerky when backing off from accelerator slowly.... etc. 6.) SR20 powered cars - yes these cars with stock bov's make a fluttering sound when using a pod filter. this is due to the return line from bov to intake pipe. it is too small in diameter and can't handle the amount of air that is BLOWN back, and therefore some air goes back through turbo making fluttering noise. 7.)NIZPRO nad their no bov theory. NBIZPRO mainly desing cars for racing. during circuit racing, you change gears fast and frequently. so having no bov actually keeps more air in the cooler pipes when shifting, so when you are back on the throttle after a shift, you have pretty much instant throttle response when compared to a setup with a bov which realeases the air. But on the street, it's stupid having no bov. the car just isn't as smooth to drive or idle. and the fraction of a second faster on the track equals *** all on the street. now stop posting this stupid question once every fortnight!!!

SOLD

I couldn't find the thread.. who is it? link to thread? any others that have done this conversion?

"I'm on my way"

not the best title but... I want to know what can be done for a r32 GTS4 sedan or coupe which is auto. Can a manual conversion be done using a GTR gearbox? what other mods are required apart from the obvious like pedal box, clutch... etc.. ECU change? trans tunnel massaging? rough costs? I've heard GTR boxes go for about $1000 clutch - $500 pedal box? ecu? labour? any ideas?

you talking about the top of the mountain episode? that was a scary moment hey.. Although I thought that was the FJ powered car.. Might have to go have another look..

do you have the dyno print out? does it show the air:fuel ratio on the graph? I've always wanted to know what a stock skylines a:f mixtures are like when usingour 98 fuel instead of 100 like japan.

yes

there are 2 different turbo's on the S14's S15's.. not all are ball bearing.. here is how you tell them apart. All that matters is the garret number, everything else just confuses matters 466541 = ball bearing 466543 = bush bearing for the second bit of the number -001 = S14 turbo (no splitter between wastegate and turbine exit) -002 = S15 turbo (splitter between wastegate and turbine exit) serial numbers are your friend and it doesn't matter if it's a JAP spec or AUS spec. there were some BB aus spec's and some NON BB Jap specs and vice versa. to give you an idea of what the true BB ones are like on an S15, on of the guys in the nissan Sports car club in sydney gets 1.2Bar boost by 2200rpm and holds till close to red line.

the catagory is not my point. there is a thread in here about rb20's with 250+rwkw. roy had about what 260rwkw? how long did it last? people have got 300+rwkw from SR20's.. why? who cares? have you come across an RB20 with 300+rwkw? I haven't.. Like I said.. I'm not bagging it. I just don't see it being developed like the SR's are. people just go up the food chain to an RB26... but the rb20 v's SR20 thread here doesn't/shouldn't involve rb26's or 25's for that matter. in all honesty, the next car I buy will probab;y be a 4 door r32 with an RB20. which will be stripped and sold once the RB30det is ready anyway so I don't really care for either engine.. I want the torque of the RB30det. SK's first one he made had 475 hp or something.. can't remember.. he said that the peak power was at 6250rpm (again... I think) this seems to rev less than the SR and way less than the RB20 but I would still prefer it over both. I've had an R32 gtst and now have an S14. I use my car everyday for everything. and as a street car, the S14/sr20 shits all over the R32/rb20. It makes no difference that the SR has nothing over 6000rpm because 1st gear to 6000rpm in the S14 will get me just over 60ks anyway and what use is that to me driving to work? I hate v8 commonwhores and falcon's but want their off the mark torque with no revs. so the RB30det will be just perfect for me.. even if it only produces 200rwkw.... the torque that it will have at street pace in any gear will keep me happy. same reason I prefer the sr to the rb... It just seems to be more punchy without having to rev it like the RB. on a circuit it would probably be a completely different story... different strokes for different folks.